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Alright, so I spent a considerable amount of time on the HeroQuest elf. The main focus of my time with him was to try and suss out how to do proper eyes, I did a little working with the gem stuff, and I was trying to make shadows and highlights that were believable and semi-attractive (I felt this was a wash. I did some decent coloring, but either my technique for blending was bad and caused some blotching, or my craft paints just aren't good enough for this).

 

I also tried my hand at some freehand on his capelet. They look decent in hand, but this photo definitely reveals some messiness I hadn't seen.

 

So here he is, my Elfy Butterfutts

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I see a lot of good things going on with your paint job. I especially like the fact that you added some rosiness to the cheeks, you've got some good shading going on throughout the mini; couple spots I'm iffy about but overall I like where you're headed. I like the fact that despite the exaggerated features of this mini (yes I own the game still), you did a solid job making the eyes look good on an...ok sculpt. If you really want to make the shading pop, feather some thin faint highlights on the highest surfaces on hard edges and clothing folds.

 

I respect that you are trying some pretty advanced stuff with the gems, NMM and the freehand. The gem on the belt is definitely believable, while the one on the hilt is missing the same spark. Like all things they take practice so keep at it!

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@Adrift: Thank you! Yeah, I am quite iffy about the sword hilt gem myself. With a flat-backed gem, it's easier to know where to source your lighter and darker colors. With something that hangs free, it's a bit tougher. Next time, I think I'll avoid doing something like that until I've researched it better.

 

As for the higher highlights, I think I could work that. I just need to pick out a decent color a shade or three brighter.

 

The NMM, that was a really bad experiment. I regret doing it the way I did. I think my problem is, that with a straight blade like this, I just don't have any idea how to play the light across is believably. I've found moderate success with axes and larger blades, but it's that straight one with the raised center that I just can't grasp.

 

The thing that really messed me up, though, was the dip. I was iffy on dipping him, and I did it anyway. Bad idea. It put a ton of little black spots all over him. Next mini, completely skipping dipping.

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Avoiding dipping is the first step towards doing quality paint jobs. Dipping is strictly for speed painting armies for the tabletop. It's a technique I only use for games that make heavy use of ranked troops. Also, you're right, your craft paints aren't good enough for this. Craft paints will always look thick and blotchy on a miniature, it's just the nature of the beast. Reaper makes excellent paints, I'd go with them.

 

You might also want to consider starting with a layer of medium brown when painting yellow-blond hair. If you start with a deeper brown and drybrush up to a sunny yellow, it gives the hair more depth and realism.

 

I like that you did this figure, the old HeroQuest models are really awesome. I painted this guy up several years ago, when I first got back into painting. I painted him with Michael Moorcock's Elric in mind:

 

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It's a fun model. The Chaos Sorcerer from that set is also a hoot to paint.

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Yeah, I'm looking into getting some better paints now. My FLGS takes books and gives trade-in credit for them, so I was thinking of losing some of my current dead weight books (4e comes to mind. I don't hate it, but I have never, ever gotten into a game to use them) and use that to pick up some actualy nice paints. Plus I put in for one of the starter sets from the KS!

 

And thanks for the hair advice! I tried the pick out highlights manually, but the hair sculpt just was all over the place with flat spots and raised portions. I just went with a nice bright color and hopes for the best. I think I'll go over the hair again with some simple brown and a light dry-brush on top. to clean it up.

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And thanks for the hair advice! I tried the pick out highlights manually, but the hair sculpt just was all over the place with flat spots and raised portions. I just went with a nice bright color and hopes for the best. I think I'll go over the hair again with some simple brown and a light dry-brush on top. to clean it up.

 

It really does help to have a good model. The heroquest models are great fun, but they aren't great models. That's sort of the earliest experiments Games Workshop was doing in injection molded plastic miniatures, and the details are pretty weak.

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fwiw, LTPK2 has paints that would work well with the HQ elf.

 

DId you and I talk about the orc, goblins, and fimir? I think those would do well with a "black primer + white drybrush".

 

Also, scrape off the mold lines from the base. Redo the freehand.

 

Did you want a link to freehand for basing? I found a good tutorial on how to paint a dungeon tile as a base!

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I did the black primer + white drybrush with this guy and I didn't really want to clean the mold lines off of these guys, since I was using them more for practice than for making a nice mini. And heck yes a link to freehand for basing would be awesome!

 

I would love to get the LTPKs, and with my trade-in credit at my FLGS, I think I'll pick up at least one. The paints alone make it worth it, but the instructions will also be incredibly useful.

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I almost feel guilty recommending the L2PKs to people, they're such a stupidly good deal. How is Reaper making any money off them?

 

VOLUME VOLUME VOLUME :D

 

They make 2500 at a time and get sold out! I'm sure they sell faster than their individual paints b/c they offer fewer choices. That is, I don't know Oiled Leather vs. Ruddy Leather vs. frickin' brown, but I do want to learn how to paint skin. So, instead of being confused by hundreds of paint choices, I'm down to deciding between two kits, one beginner, one advanced. Since I'm a beginner, I buy the beginning kit. DONE.

 

fwiw, I've searched for other learn to paint kits from other hobby companies, and can't find them. If anyone finds some, let me know.

 

The LTPK kits do some major handholding. While the internet has been VERY valuable to me for tips, specific instructions to paint a specific figure are still helpful. And, of course, a good price if you need a set of paints and some brushes. Yes, I would have preferred to get the KS paints this month instead of March, though.

 

Freehand dungeon bases: http://jon-theartofw...loor-bases.html

 

EDIT: Whoops! You can also hide the mold line by basing the figure in sand and painting. Me, I just get confused whether or not I want the figure in a dungeon or outside!

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That's a great job on a miniature that's... well, it's good for what it is, but crap by comparison to anything modern. And using crappy paints. If you're wondering, you are absolutely too good to be farting about with garbage paints.

 

As an aside; some really great painters get really great results with craft paints, but I have no idea how it's even theoretically possible.

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I almost feel guilty recommending the L2PKs to people, they're such a stupidly good deal. How is Reaper making any money off them?

 

 

I'm really stretching the limits of my goblin brain here, so I might get corrected, but: I'm not sure they are making money, especially if they're being sent out fully equipped with MSPs.

 

When they were being switched to the little paint by number pot strips I protested the move vigorously, and that's when (if my memory is any good) I was told the margin on the paint kits is slim. So it may very well be that Reaper makes little, or possibly nothing off them - using them as a loss leader to stimulate interest among new customers who will buy future product.

 

But that's pulled out of the mangled depths of my goblin mind from some years back, so it might be wrong.

 

And anyway, if even only one in ten sold kits results in the creation of a creature like me, or others like me, Reaper will make plenty of money off the ensuing figmentia and compulsion to hoard tin like an Indonesian magnate.

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I had heard some years ago here on the boards that Reaper does not loss-lead.

 

That might be old info, but loss-leading doesn't seem the Reaper way; it's inherently risky and one reason for their ongoing success is they don't take on more risk than they absolutely have to: exhibit A is the Kickstarter, and the revelation that they don't expand the Bones line any faster than the Bones line can pay for it.

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While I would be tempted to agree, the fact remains that with the strip replaced by MSP bottles the retail price of the components in kit 1 is $52.18 but the kit is $25.95 - which is a very substantial difference in margin. Essentially you're getting everything in the kit at half price.

 

That may not represent a full loss, I don't know what the margins are, but I think we can agree that the paint kits are an aberration from the normal Reaper practice - else everything they sell would cost half as much. We know they're not super-greedy, so we can assume their regular retail margins are reasonable profit above cost - and that means that while the kits may not represent an actual net loss they are the least profitable product. Given that Reaper goes above and beyond to cut unnecessary costs (like replacing the agitators), then the only reasons left as to why they'd continue offering the kits is either:

 

A. They're super generous people (they do seem pretty nice)

or B. The benefit accrued from potential future sales outweighs the hit on the kits - and that's essentially loss-leading, isn't it? (I am not a business goblin or mathemagician)

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