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I usually err on the side of going too thin. For the edge highlights you want it less thin, maybe 2:1, but you have to be careful and blend up to it with the thinner paints so it's not just a stark line (unless it's a reflective material like metal or shiny leather). I struggle with highlighting soft materials because they don't tend to highlight as dramatically as a shiny or hard object would.


I love the idea of gilded pages, genius!

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I finished her up tonight. I tried once again to add a highlight to the leather without success - this time with a reddish brown colour that I used as the shadow on the bracers. But I did up the scroll, and I like the way it turned out. I liked the gilded look so much I added some gold trim to the scroll.




And I think I totally understand lining now - after running into a few deep nooks and crannies in glaring white. Previously I primed in black, which allowed me to just ignore these parts and leave them in shadow. I guess lining could accomplish the same thing.

Edited by Pragma
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Here's how I see the lining thing. There are 3 ways to begin.


Prime black and have to do more layers than otherwise,

Prime white and line, gaining the advantages of black primer without the disadvantage of the extra layers

Prime white and don't line, and spend FOREVER painting into the little missed bits that nobody would've noticed if you'd only done one of the above.

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Yep. My rule of thumb is if it's got a ton of lining you have to balance the time spent lining vs the time spent base coating over black. But even so, black primer will still require a lot of touch up, as it doesn't reach all spots on the mini. White primer + lining is my preferred method.

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Thanks for the advice on priming and lining. I'll probably try out a variety of different techniques to see what works. I definitely had a better time painting skin with a white primer, but I don't know how much of that is the better paints (reaper vs. terrible dollar store acrylic paints).


And thanks for pointing out the spot of blue! I noticed it before and tried to cover it up with yellow but it seems it didn't quite take. I should go over it again.

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My L2PK adventure continues in a new place!




Here they are all primed up. I'm going to do the Monk first, as he seems like the lesser of 2 evils at the moment.


Learning from my Man-at-Arms last kit, I did his eyes before basecoating (still don't get how anyone manages to paint eyes, I'm beginning to suspect they use witchcraft).

I also lined him at this stage, not sure if I did it right (unfortunately I don't have a picture of him lined, I dropped my netbook while sorting out my photo's and it killed a few of them).

Then on to his skin:-




Looking okay so far, but I'm having trouble seeing where I've highlighted his skin, am I doing it wrong or is it supposed to be really subtle and my stanky old eyes just can't make it out?

Edited by aku-chan
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Those leg wraps of his gave me fits for quite a while. It became pretty tough to see where the pokey parts of the pance where vs. the wraps, and try to get things clean. Looks like you've got a handle on it, though!


Yeah those things are a nightmare to try to paint neatly, and his hairbands were even worse!


The leg wraps on Tsuko and the Anhurian from Kit 1 are excellent introductions to detail work, I thought. I feel like I got a lot tighter after those two.


Yeah, Reaper did a really good job on selecting the mini's for these kits. Every bit of them seems to teach you something, or builds on things from the previous kit.





Almost done!


I went back over his belt and shaded it down again with the base grey, and painted up his weapon.

Now I just need to fix up where the gold escaped (I hate painting with thinned gold, it seemed to lose all its sparkle unless I was really heavy-handed with it, but then it goes everywhere, of course).

After that I'll finish off the base and post a finished pic.


Then it's on to the dreaded Sorceress mini!

I'm not as frightened of painting her as I was, the Monk was slightly easier than I thought he'd be and I feel I did a decent job on him. So hopefully it'll work out with her too.

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Some people seem to have no trouble thinning RMS metallic paints with water, but I've always had a devil of a time. Fortunately, there is a trick that Psyberwolf and a few other people have posted a few times around here.


Instead of thinning it with water, try Liquitex Airbrush Medium. You can find it online (got mine from dickblick.com with a brush order), or should be available at any art/craft store that sells airbrush products. It's not too expensive (around $7 for a bottle), and it made a big difference for me. I don't know that I'd use it for thinning regular acrylic paints, but it works great on the RMS metallic paints, including Pearl White.


Bring on the Sorceress!

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