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Some people seem to have no trouble thinning RMS metallic paints with water, but I've always had a devil of a time. Fortunately, there is a trick that Psyberwolf and a few other people have posted a few times around here.

 

Instead of thinning it with water, try Liquitex Airbrush Medium. You can find it online (got mine from dickblick.com with a brush order), or should be available at any art/craft store that sells airbrush products. It's not too expensive (around $7 for a bottle), and it made a big difference for me. I don't know that I'd use it for thinning regular acrylic paints, but it works great on the RMS metallic paints, including Pearl White.

 

Bring on the Sorceress!

 

Do you know if something like Vallejo's Matte Medium would work just as well? I can get the Liquitex stuff, but Vallejo products are just easier (and cheaper) to get.

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Found the post!

 

I'm not sure how well that Matte Medium would work, but it's worth giving it a try. So much of this hobby is finding what works for you personally, that it never, ever hurts to experiment.

 

Reading through that thread it sounds like the Liquitex stuff is a cocktail of all kinds of things, so I think it's that or nothing.

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Everyone else seems to be posting much clearer pictures, but I'm currently limited to standard room lighting. I really like the look of cmorse's light box a few posts back - I may try something like that for my next pics.

 

Anyway, here are my current Laurana and Tsuko. I've highlighted Laurana's raised hand (and the leg beneath it) with the intention of trying for some sort of "spell effect", but I'm not entirely sure how to pull that off. Perhaps painting the scroll letters a light blue, then copying that as a wash over the whites of her eyes, and then integrating that into the highlights on her hand? Or maybe I'll try raiding my daughters jewlery-making kit for spell-effecty beads. Suggestions are welcome...

 

BTW, the back of one of my LTPK instruction sheets (4, I think) lists an "LTPK6: special effects", which sure would be handy right about now. Does this actually exist? Reaper's search engine doesn't seem to know about it.

 

 

laurana2.png

 

 

tsuko2.png

 

Someone mentioned having difficulty figuring out how to highlight Laurana's right leg as it receeds into her loincloth, and someone responded to try using a bright light directly above the mini to help visualize where shadows will fall. I'll add, however, that sometimes "realistic" just doesn't look "right", and for me this was the case with Laurana's leg. My attempt to convey the shadow that would be cast on her rear end by the cloth wound up instead looking like she had recently sat down in the mud. So instead I just ignored "realism" and kept the entire leg visible, which someow doesn't trigger my "this doesn't look right, and now it's the only thing I ever see" OCD the way that actually trying to shade it did (of course, someone more talented than myself could certainly have managed both realism and "looks right", but I have to work with what I've got). I'll try to remember to include a pic in my next progress post.

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Aku add a touch of Linen White to your highlight and apply it over a small area where the highlights go. You don't want to make it a lot lighter, just enough that you can see the difference. You also want to keep it just to the highest points, knuckles, end of the nose, brow line, point of the chin, top of the ears, toes, ankle bone, and finally the top middle of each pec.

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Aku add a touch of Linen White to your highlight and apply it over a small area where the highlights go. You don't want to make it a lot lighter, just enough that you can see the difference. You also want to keep it just to the highest points, knuckles, end of the nose, brow line, point of the chin, top of the ears, toes, ankle bone, and finally the top middle of each pec.

 

So that's where I've been going wrong!

 

Once I've got over this stupid cold and my painting mojo returns, I'll give it a try.

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Aku add a touch of Linen White to your highlight and apply it over a small area where the highlights go. You don't want to make it a lot lighter, just enough that you can see the difference. You also want to keep it just to the highest points, knuckles, end of the nose, brow line, point of the chin, top of the ears, toes, ankle bone, and finally the top middle of each pec.

 

So that's where I've been going wrong!

 

Once I've got over this stupid cold and my painting mojo returns, I'll give it a try.

crane is right, you want to use white generally for highlights unless your shooting for something odd, I have used blue and purple for highlights on darker colors.

Generally I will use 1 drop of white per 3-4 drops of base for the first highlight and then add more white to the mix as I decrease the surface area I am highlighting, keep in mind you need to thin your paint down when highlighting with white or else it can go all pear shaped on you.

Edited by pocketcthulhu
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Ok, so here's my completed Tsuko. Didn't get a chance to build the DIY lightbox yet, but the advice to use white paper to bounce the light seems to have helped.

 

 

tsukofront50.jpg

 

tsukoback50.jpg

 

So, here's where I talk about what went wrong. Once I had the pants and hair basecoated, I could no longer see the laces... so I sacrificed some "clean" points and applied a heavy wash of the brown-grey (the intent being to return them to "just primed" state, more or less). Then I washed with the black ink from LTPK1 until I could make out the outlines of the laces, filled them in with undiluted linen white, then re-base-coated the pants and hair. This left me with traces I could actually see to cover with the brown-grey lace color. With so many coats of paint, the lines aren't nearly as clean as they would be if I had the skill to just follow the instructions (not to mention the time spent), but as I've mentioned previously I've got to work with what I've got.

 

I think my real mistake here was in not realizing how hard it would be to pick out the lacing once my pants/hair were basecoated. If I'd thought to do the black ink wash up front, just after priming, it would have likely turned out much cleaner.

 

I also just noticed I've got a blob on the back of his right hand that needs touching up. And that the hands I had thought were pretty clean... aren't. Dang but photographs are really unforgiving - wish I could upload what my old eyes actually see, cause it's a lot better! :)

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Found the post!

 

I'm not sure how well that Matte Medium would work, but it's worth giving it a try. So much of this hobby is finding what works for you personally, that it never, ever hurts to experiment.

 

I have heard at least one poster on another forumn swear by Vallejo matte medium for improving blending drastically the last I knew he used a little of every brand of paint. So it would be worth trying if you have it.

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Oh no! A dreaded double post!

 

Finally got over the worst of my cold, so its back to painting:-

 

gedc0342f.jpg

 

Considering how alien this method of doing skin is to me, I don't think that's too bad for a first attempt. I need practice though, lots and lots of practice.

 

Also gave Tsuko a second skin highlight and he looks better for it, forgot to take a pic though.

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