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The trick to 3 is smooth colour transitions. When I look at the model above many of the transitions are very stark, like paint has been applied heavily. This is solved in 2 ways, first is always thin the paint at least a little (ok sometimes the paint is thin enough but by default it isn't) and the when applying it do so with a light touch so you apply less to start with and more at the end. This light bit to start with helps smooth the transition of layers.


Take some time to look at photos of people study the highlight to shadow transitions you see on the different materials in the photo; flesh, hair, leather, latex, natural fibre/polyester, silk, metals all reflect light in different ways and in our painting we need to use those to foster the illusion of the mini having different materials on them.


Yeah, I still need a lot of practice with highlighting. I've been thinning my paints down as per the instructions (sometimes even thinner), but I haven't really gotten the hang of painting them yet.


I'm pretty certain my first go at NMM is going to be a disaster, but I'm just very impatient to try it out.

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Glad the Liquitex is working out, I've found it to be pretty helpful in a lot of places as well.


Just to toss some more fun into the mix, here's some advice that I got from the Haley/Forester DVD set, and the kits don't really cover this at all, but it was pretty useful. When you're shading and highlighting, a good guideline is to try for shadow:mid:highlight of 25:50:25. That is, don't shade more than 25% of an area, leave about 50% at the mid, and don't highlight more than 25%. An area being defined as a cloak, or a tunic, or legs, etc.


Now the trick here is that this is something that's useful when you're starting out, but once you get comfortable and develop your own style, you'll end up throwing that out the window in favor of doing what looks right. So I'm not trying to say this is a rule, or formula, or anything of the sort. It's just a helpful guideline that I wish someone had explained to me when I was getting started. ::D:

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That's going around, try and practice the first 2 kits techniques some more before heading into 3.


That's a rather good idea.


I think I'll take a break from my Kit journey, get a bit more comfortable with layering and then try Kit 3.


To the cave of unpainted mini's!!

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So my LTPK's arrived. Yay. I've started with Tsuko. I'm sure I followed the instructions but the base skin tone came out very dark, But I kinda like it.


From what I've been reading on the forums; Higher Highlights & Shadier shadows seem to do the trick, so I thought what the heck I won't hold back.


The photo's sure do show up all the little thinks not visible to the naked eye!





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I'll most likely be starting these kits soon. I'm thinking of taking some pictures of the flash/moldline removal, maybe some point later I can work on a tutorial. Hopefully something that will come up less with the Bones miniatures.

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So I finally opened up kit 2, and I'm a bit confused. I'm not sure if I got the wrong things, or if things have changed and the instructions are just a bit out of date. Its not a huge deal, and I should still be able to do everything but still...


Only about half of the paints I have match whats mentioned on the back of the instructions, but all of the colours match up to how the models look, so I should be good there...


My main issue is the brushes. What brushes are supposed to come in this kit? The instructions list a 0 and 3/0. I got a 2 (red Sable) and a 3/0 (Reaper Master Synthetic). Combined with my L2PK1 which had the flat larger brush (also a 2) and a 5/0. so I dont really have any middle ground here. I'm sure I could use the 3/0 or 5/0 for shading, but they dont look like they would be as good for it, and the 2's are just too large and both are flat.




Looking at the online listing: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Learn%20To%20Paint%20Kits/latest/08902 it is updated with the right paints, and I got all of those paints, but not the 0 brush that is listed... odd...



What brushes did other people get?

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I got a 0 and 3/0 in mine.


UpGraydd: the blending on that skin looks fantastic. Did you follow the instructions exactly, or did you do something different? (Also, don't forget the skin on his feet showing through his sandals.)


I started on the monk this morning. The shadow was a bit dark, but I think it works with his exaggerated musculature. I decided to do the lining this time, since I skipped it on Laurana. I think I like the effect and I might keep using it in future.


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