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Last Knight

[OPEN/GROUP] WIP L2PK4

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LTPK 4 was the one of the LTPKs that I found had the least information not already covered by the others. It goes into more depth on skin tone highlighting (like brushing starting from next to the shaded area towards the most highlighted area when doing highlights) and goes into more depth on lining, but there was no information on how to paint the rest of the miniatures that came in the kit, and I think it just had a lot less text period. It did have a little bit more info on these areas than the other kits so I don't regret buying it, because every bit of additional instruction and practice is probably helpful for me at this early stage of learning, and I'm in the process of doing the LTPK 4 myself now.

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Carrying on, I've also done his wrist bracer-things and axe head in True Silver, with the intentions of hitting it with a black wash, and then drybrushing highlights back on top. I've paused on the metallics for now, though, with the realization that I really should have done some other stuff first - the leather backing for those bracers, for example. I try to work inside-out, since I'm still fairly clumsy with a brush, and I hatehatehate having to go back and correct misstrokes on things I've aready painted, over and over again. So, I'll hold off on the wash until after I've hit up some leathery stuff - his eyepatch should be fun. The temptation to try to freehand a heart on it, ala Molitov Cocktease from Venture Brothers, is nigh overwhelming...

 

I'm impressed by your "painting party" results, so encourage you to try.

 

Are you using the LTPK1 metal techniques, or the LTPK5 ones? I'm actually holding off on finishing some Ral Partha barbarians I painted with LTPK2 techniques, until I learn the LTPK5 demi-metal ones!

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Fur (clothing)

* Base: Palomino gold

* Wash: Troll shadow+Gnoll shadow+ very little Green liner

* Light: Palomino gold

* Highlight: Yellowed bone+Creamy ivory+flow improver

 

I disliked drybrushing highlight, so I did light brush strokes

as if I was writing 11111... until I felt doing so was no fun.

 

post-4507-0-67632500-1352352951_thumb.jpg

 

He is a bit too orange like a Halloween pumpkin. :huh:

...I will change that.

A male pumpkin fairy is not bad, though...

 

post-4507-0-09866800-1352352953_thumb.jpg

 

I'm in the middle of adding some red/red brown.

 

Plan:

I'll give blue or turquoise wash on his skin. Black-red-yellow pendant. Darker colored kilt.

Grey highlight on his hair. Probably use metallic paints. Detail on his face/better highlight.

Skull on his eye patch if I could...

 

 

post-4507-0-15101500-1352352975.jpg

 

A small picture of my painting area. I like it when it's not so messy. ::):

When I'm not conscious, a Goblin inside me drops a bomb on the desk...

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I disliked drybrushing highlight, so I did light brush strokes

as if I was writing 11111... until I felt doing so was no fun.

 

That's kind of my fake drybrushing thing. I go real easy and drag across the area I would've drybrushed. I keep the paint moist on the brush, but thin and keep the brush very lightly loaded. Move from lightest to heaviest paint deposit.

 

The paint job is looking good, but your dude is looking a bit orcish.

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The paint job is looking good, but your dude is looking a bit orcish.

 

My hubby is fond of orc/half-orc. He would like this mini, then. :B):

 

I like dry brushing bigger areas. 1) I remove paint on the brush by wiping it off on a paper towel until I see non coming out,

2) I apply that invisible paint on a cloak, for example, as if spring breeze hits it gently. ^_^

His fur clothing was way too small for expecting smooth highlight using drybrush technique for me...

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Just when you thought this was done...

 

Finally got around to painting the blue on this guy (and as you can see repainted his leather this time with Ruddy Leather).

 

The blue was Brilliant Blue base coat, Saphire Blue for Midtone, and then mixed in Ashen Blue to make highlights (2 layers with increasing Ashen Blue).

 

I will continue to follow that basic strategy, the midtone on the leather will be 50/50 Ruddy Leather/Oiled Leather with a highlight of Oiled Leather, that might be another week or so away though, we'll see what I feel like doing as the week goes on.

 

post-7660-0-54462800-1352638014.jpg

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I haven't abandoned this. I'm working on my mini for the figure exchange because it took a while to arrive, and it's a little bit complicated, and I want to do a better job than my usual lazy slapdash, and get it in the mail before next year. ::P: So when that's done, I'll have more for here, the kit 1 thread, Takhisis, and maybe I'll even finish that Ral Partha dragonmistress.

 

I think that's everything I've got ongoing.

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You know I've finally worked out what Mr Muscles here is; he's a half-ogre. Seriously stand him between an Ogre Chieftain and a normal human from Reaper and see.

 

No progress to report I was distracted by painting an early 90's era Citadel River Troll model, which looks like a debased version of the Red Box Games Ogre/Troll who looks like a debased version of the Reaper Ogre Chieftain... Why yes I had all 4 models standing in a row...

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You know I've finally worked out what Mr Muscles here is; he's a half-ogre. Seriously stand him between an Ogre Chieftain and a normal human from Reaper and see.

I thought he was half pinecone? Seriously, something about those stomach muscles just bugs me.
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Argentee - its the third set of muscles, they just don't appear like that even on the most over developed muscle builders. For a human this guys anatomy is just wrong.

 

zoroaster100 - I described it on the prior page but all I did was thin down a mix of Pure Black and Brilliant Blue and wash it on around the lower face to make stubble as this was too black I glazed it with tanned flesh (midtone) and retouched the face to make it all smoother and consistent.

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A little more progress. I painted his dark bits in Walnut. You may notice something new here - that strip of blue at the bottom. I blu-tacked this guy to a reaper pro paint bottle as a handle. This is something multiple people, including Qwysilver, recommended to me and I declined citing shaky hands. Well, it's not much easier with this in some respects - but at least I'm not rubbing paint off so much, and that does save backtracking. I'll try this for a while, if I get used to it it'll be an overall improvement.

 

I also notice that the fully painted Bertokk suggested serving has rudimentary NMM. I think I'll also give this a try, possibly cribbing some bits from Kit 3. Look at me, getting all adventurous.

 

Anyway, here's my dude:

 

post-3313-0-68143700-1353276911_thumb.jpg

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My blue tack isn't tacky enough, my Bones Ogre kept coming loose. So I'm back to supergluing onto the top of an old Polly S paint pot.

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