Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Recommended Posts

Greetings everyone,

 

I was hoping to get everyone's solution for using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water product on your bases. More importantly, I'm hoping to find information about how to keep Realistic Water on a non-recessed base!

 

So what's your secret to keeping the product on there while not getting a funky concave edge or bulges? Or on a round base?

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't used it yet, but ironically bought a pack today with my weekly coupon. I'm interested in any usage tips out there as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used this stuff a lot, my Ice Base tutorial shows how I do.

 

It's great for small amounts of water but if you're not using a lipped base you're going to need to carve into your base and add something that can hold it or sculpt something that will. Clay will work if you want it to be temporary but you've got to have a really good seal.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So what's your secret to keeping the product on there while not getting a funky concave edge or bulges?

 

I'm also looking for this answer. I think a formwork will be required. I’ll probably be using Realistic Water myself on my next scenic base.

There’s some good video about Woodland Scenics on Youtube, I could see interesting ones about Realistic Water effects.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So what's your secret to keeping the product on there while not getting a funky concave edge or bulges?

 

I'm also looking for this answer. I think a formwork will be required. I’ll probably be using Realistic Water myself on my next scenic base.

There’s some good video about Woodland Scenics on Youtube, I could see interesting ones about Realistic Water effects.

 

Unfortunately, they only cover using the product in a depression. What I intend to do, is have the product be at the edge of a base. I've found some videos on YouTube that deal with this problem, but because of using a barrier, the realistic water has a tendency to climb up the sides, leaving a concave edge at the barrier. This wouldn't be a big deal when doing a large scale train layout, but for 28mm mini's, it's huge.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My solution is to use Envirotex Lite.

 

It is nice to know that there is an alternative product that you can use to make a high gloss finish and wont eat through paint and other modelling compounds.

 

Unfortunately, that doesn't answer the question of how to keep it on your base. Letting the product run off of the sides as stated in the instruction manual wouldn't work for me, as I'm trying to create "deep" water. I'm going for roughly 1/3"-1/2".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A rather crude solution, but could you try attaching clear overhead projector film in a ring round your base to form a rim, use your water then if possible remove the film... if not, well at least its clear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1) I wouldn't recommend using Realistic Water for deep water. My information is that it is not stable in the long term and doesn't work well poured deep, even in layers.

 

2) If you're going to pour deep "water" and have a rectangular base, Legos work well to build a rigid, straight wall. Make sure you cover them with something smooth and fluid tight.

 

3) That won't stop the meniscus or remove all texture from the edge. For that, you'll need to polish the face and possibly grind or carve the edge.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Kuroneko
      I'm sure many of you can sympathise- we see a cool model in a kickstarter, finally get it delivered and then sit flummoxed whilst trying to figure out exactly how to paint said mini. This Mystic Portal has been sitting on my painting desk since last June and I finally figured out what to do with it.
       
      Imagine that your players have just finished ransacking your meticulously planned dungeon/keep/cavern system. They've breezed through the encounters, possibly due to good dice rolls or possibly that they're a bunch of min/maxing little murder hobos. What you need is one final encounter, one last chance for them to shine or to let them spectacularly fail.
       
       There's one last room left and it's securely locked. It'll certainly be magically warded and if I know my players then that's a challenge that they won't be able to pass up. Inside the room is a single portal, made of nondescript stone but with stunning looking gems set into the eyes of it's carved dragons. Surely none of them would be daft enough to trigger an obviously dangerous portal?
       
      You haven't met my players
       
      My plan to paint one side of the portal the naturalistic stone colour and to paint the other side the fully active, just about to summon a multi headed dragon, portal. This means that when they invariably trigger it, all I have to do is spin it around and savour their worried/confused faces Here's hoping that I can actually do it justice.
       
      This is the portal. It's cast in translucent bonesium, which I like because it gives you a choice between taking advantage to it's see through quality or to just paint it like a normal mini. I opted to paint it as normal.
       

       
      There was a slight bit of warping on the base piece, but the old 'boiling/ice water' trick sorted it out in 5 minutes. I'm planning on setting the base on some warning runes, so I used the Greenstuff World Dwarven rolling pin on some foam to see how it would fit onto the pattern.
       

       
      On to the painting! I painted the inactive side of the portal Cloudy Grey 9089 and the active side Pure Black 9037.
       

       

       
      I'm not sure if I'm going to fuzz up this line or leave it as a stark contrast.
       

       
      I added a black/ green wash to dirty up the stone and added a little bit of orange to the stone to give it a little bit of texture
       

       
      The real work begins! I started blocking in the colours for the active side of the portal. Red, purplish black, white, green and blue. It's almost as if I'm trying to match my half finished Ma'al Drakar
       


       
      My coordination went a bit wobbly with the foo dogs(which are awesome, btw!) so that's where I left it for tonight. We've got a storm coming in tomorrow, so I'm hoping to get some more work done on it tomorrow. Any comments/criticism/suggestions are, as always, warmly received.
       
    • By lexomatic
      So I got a newsletter with super early (2020) kickstarter tease (image behind the spoiler).
       
       
    • By Glitterwolf
      There are some things that don't really fit a project and aren't important enough for a thread on their own.
      I'll put those here.
       
      Like this campfire.
      3D printed from the Artisan Guild welcome Pack
       
       

    • By SparrowMarie
      I've gotten to the basing point for Ma'al. I decided I wanted to put ivy vines around the base. While I just did the vines out of green stuff I'm not sure what to do about the leaves. I have a GSW leaf punch that I want to use but I'm not sure how to prep the leaves so nothing weird comes in with them. It's been suggested to me to use the oven but was given no further details.  I have other ideas if I can't get the leaves to work but I'd really like to use them since I went through the trouble of getting the punch specifically for this. 
       
      So what would you do to real leaves to make them work for basing? 
    • By SamuraiJack
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1314367776/fantasy-scenery-and-accessories
       
      Story
      Hello, you are in front of our first project. We have lovingly developed it and hard work to offer accessories for modeling, role-playing games, wargames, dungeon games, skirmish games, or whatever your imagination and miniature creations need.
      We hope that with your help we can continue moving forward together around miniature hobby.
      We offer to yo a lot of items groups of accessories, scenery and furniture to go with your miniature games. 
      All the items are manufacture in plastic resin. Ready to paint.
      6 sacks + 4 barrels (2 open + 2 close) + 1 big barrel + 4 pots ( 4 models) + 4 boxes ( 4 models) + 6 chest (2 open + 4 close) + 1 big chest
      12 tombstones (6 diferent models) + 2 crosses ( 2 models) + 1 obelisk   10 x ruined columns (5 differen models) + 1 x summon circle + 1 x altar 1 wardrobe + 2 bookcase (shelves are separated) + 1 table + 2 benchs + 1 round table + 3 stools   All In Early Bird only first 72 hours (and all unlocked strech goals) All IN you get all (and all unlocked strech goals) Comparison with Avatars of War miniature Comparison with Avatars of War miniature  
      The casting of our miniatures will be carried out by the company Miniaturas Alemany that with more than 20 years of experience and its participation in varied and numerous crowdfundings assures quality and punctuality.
  • Who's Online   31 Members, 1 Anonymous, 34 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...