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I'm a newish painter, and have a bunch of projects that I'm working on. I'm working on extending my range of skills beyond "slop on some paint." To that end, I would like to share some of my current projects and ask if any of the wise and talented folks here could give me a few pointers the next step.

 

First up is the Skinsaw Man http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/skinsaw/sku-down/60033

 

 

He's my oldest project here, and he definitely needs highlighting. He's been washed in black ink (maybe a bad idea). At this point, I had been using poorly-to-non-thinned P3 paints. He might be due for a dunk in the start over bucket.

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Edited by gmpathfinder
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The principle difference between the teeth on your mimic and the teeth on my otyugh below is a coat of Army Painter quickshade dark on the whole fig.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/videogallery.php?videoid=2

http://www.thearmypainter.com/videogallery.php?videoid=3

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A dark wash would also do the trick. You got nice base coats down, just need to get the shadows and highlights in there. Have fun with it.

Edited by badocter
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It's a good idea to ask yourself what your "next step" should be. Are you after "good quality tabletop" or "Golden Demon winner?" Or somewhere between?

 

For tabletop use, a dark wash or dip plus a drybrushed round of highlights will be great. Your minis look pretty solid, with a reasonable attention to detail and good brush control. Doing a little to deepen the shadows and pop the highlights will do plenty, and you'll have minis that look good on the tabletop.

 

If you're hoping to go a little beyond that, I think your next step is greater attention to detail (frex, you can see skinsaw's pants through a split in his coat, but you painted that leg coat-color), and thinner paints to start layering and glazing. This will make your minis look great at a closer viewing.

 

Either way, welcome to the hobby. Have fun and post more minis!

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For the mocking beast, see how a brown wash works out on the teeth. I think you have that figure down.

 

For the Skinsaw Man, I think your paints need more thinning? Human figures are harder to paint than teethy monsters, and metal surfaces are difficult if you want to go beyond "black basecoat + metal drybrush".

 

Here's an exercise in thin coats and blending. It's on the advanced side, but work towards it. You have a wet palette, right? (:

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/32050-how-to-blend-by-olliekickflip/

 

I think your technique will be improved with Learn to Paint Kit 2: Beginning Skin and Cloth. Reaper will release a revised Bones version next year. For metals, it's LTPK5: Intermediate Armor. Both of these LTPKs have WIP threads on this forum. You already have miniature paints, but it's important that you try different paints from different companies. FRPGames also sells the LTPKs for low shipping.

 

 

@badoctor: If you can post the steps you took to paint the Otyeugh, I'd really appreciate it! I have one to paint some month next year! Thanks!

Edited by ced1106

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@badoctor: If you can post the steps you took to paint the Otyeugh, I'd really appreciate it! I have one to paint some month next year! Thanks!

That otyugh was base coated mostly in Citadel bugman's glow, highlighted with a mix of bugman's glow and Citadel tausept ochre. Teeth claws and whatever those tentacles end in were done with Reaper MSP Creamy Ivory. Inside of mouth was mostly tausept ochre, although I think the tongue was a mix of tausept ochre and Citadel gretchen green. When all the paint was dry, next was a brush on of Army Painter Quickshade Dark to do the shadowing and give that dirty look overall to the skin, as well as the seperation of the teeth. Quickshade is glossy, so the last step was to brush on Liquitex Matte Varnish over most of the fig the next day, but I left the inside of the mouth, the teeth, and the eyeballs shiny so they would retain a wet look.

 

When I say "mix", I was gradually blending two pools of paint on my wet palette until I got the shade I was looking for. May be 50/50, but could easily by 70/30 since there was no precise measurement. Working on the wet palette also watered down the paints alot, so each coat was not completely opaque. Not quite as thin as a wash, but definitely not as thick as straight out of the bottle. It is easier to make gradual transitions and mottling of the skin by using multiple highlite coats of a thin paint than a single highlite coat of a thick paint.

 

Hope that helps. Look forward to seeing pics.

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Thanks for the advice so far. The Skinsaw Man was definitely started before I learned about thinning paints, which is why I might strip him and start over.

 

The wife unit supposedly got me a l2pk for xmas, but I think it's #4.

 

Dr. Lucky (from paizo's board game) is my next work in progress- I think I did a little better on thin layers of the coat. The pants still need some layers.

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Pants need to be less saturated. They sorta throw off the "balance" of the figure, with attention going to the pants and tie, not the face. The blue pants almost look like jeans.

 

You may have to add some shadow and definition to the face? If you look at pics of older bald men, they have cheeks or some other parts of their face sunken in. The LTPKs keep mentioning how us painters have paint in the definition for the skin of female figures, because they don't have the exaggerated muscles the male figures have. I wouldn't be surprised if the sculpture lacked the facial lines we expect to see with an older balding man.

 

Blackline the book pages, hands, etc. to add contrast. If the detail lines are too small, try a Micron 005 pen. What I do is give stroke of pen ink and massage it in with a damp brush. Note: I've read that brush-on sealer does not work well with Microns.

 

Work on the base. Unfortunately, the base is this sorta cobblestone, while the Dr. Lucky game is played in a mansion. Go figure! :/

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I have my work bench back for a bit. I've mostly been puttering with some bones. The mimic fell and I think my attempt at a base failed miserably. Thank goodness I get a 2nd bones one to work on. The second is the pathfinder cleric of Urgotha, goddess of disease. Finally, I present my bones troll on deck. Feedback is appreciated.

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I cleaned up the Visbaroness a bit. post-8340-0-52510900-1363149604_thumb.jpg post-8340-0-37440900-1363149615_thumb.jpg

 

I learned earlier on the boards that unicorns are never trivial, so I endeavor to make my unicorn into a nightmare (both literal and figurative). I still need to smooth over the highlights. Am I getting the general idea?

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On the bones kick, my Buglips forgery:

 

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That nightmare unicorn is looking really good. The highlights, as you said, do need a bit of smoothing, but you have them in good spots, and the colours you have chosen to use for them are great. Love the flameing main, tail, and fetlocks. Perhaps a touch of a drybrushing on the dark red with the middle orange to bring it out a little more, and add more of a glow? Any plans on what you are going to do to smooth out the highlights?

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