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anybody use reaper MSP for airbrushing?


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I have used both Reaper Master and HD through my airbrush. I thin my paints with a mixture using 99% isopropyl alcohol and water. About 10% alcohol and 90% water (its not even close to being an exact mix). I usually start my mixtures at 50% Alcohol/Water and 50% paint. This works pretty well for the Master series and it takes a little more Alcohol/Water to the mix for the HD. It also depends on how thick the base paint is, blues and greens usually need a little more, reds and yellows usually right at 50:50. This is a good starting point for Vallejo Model Color as well. Even Vallejo Airbrush needs a little thinning (not nearly 50:50 though). Its just something you have to play with. And results will differ a bit depending on whether you are using a gravity feed or a siphon airbrush and if its an internal or external mix. My airbrushes are double-action, gravity feed (they have a paint cup, that sits on top) and are internal mix.

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I'm in the same place, and just started using my Reaper MSP's with a brand new airbrush. Few things I've noticed, as usual, YMMV:

 

I've been using the Liquitex airbrush thinner (got it to thin my Reaper MSP metallics), and transferred some into a standard dropper bottle for easier mixing of paint/thinner. My understanding is that there's no functional difference between that and the mixture that Heisler described, but there's some difference in makeup as the Liquitex works very well for thinning metallics, but the Alcohol/Water mix does not. I've been using 1:1 thinner (from the dropper) and paint, and it seems to generally work pretty well.

 

I've only just started learning how to use it, so take this as you will, but generally I can get away with about 2 drops of paint and 2 of thinner to get a single, very thin layer on a single space marine. I did notice, at least with my airbrush (gravity feed with the paint cup on top), that if I put 2 drops of paint in first, then 2 of thinner second, and didn't shake things around quickly enough, that I had to pull the needle from the airbrush and clean it before it would paint. If I put the thinner in first, then the paint, didn't have that issue, though again, I may be doing something weird or wrong here.

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I've only just started using an airbrush, so I'm no expert, by any means. I've only used MSPs with it. The first day I used it, I used just water, and it did clog some and such. Subsequently I've been using Golden airbrush medium, sometimes with a few drops of water also for thinner mixes, and I have had fewer problems.

 

I have little cups that I mix the paint and medium in and then pour it into the cup on the airbrush. So hopefully if there are any chunks or whatnot they'll sink to the bottom of the cup, and also that way I'm sure my mix is mixed. The paint at the bottom of the cup is useful if I need to use a brush to reach places the airbrush missed.

 

I've been told that with acrylic paints like MSP stuff will dry up on the needle tip faster, and I do have to stop and scrub that off with a brush every now and then to keep the spray flowing and smooth.

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Mixing up your paint is something I should have pointed out. Like Wren I always mix my paint outside the airbrush cup and then kind of strain it with a paint brush to make sure no larger particles manage to slip by me.

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Keeping it clean is essential! While I haven't tried airbrushing Reaper, I've been able to spray everything I've tried using Future floor wax. I've tried craft paints, artists paints, you name it. Reaper should be no problem once you realize the paint consistency you need. Experimentation is key, just clean your airbrush every time.

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Probably ammonia from what I've read. "Long Life" (the same stuff as Future AFAIK) can be removed with an ammonia mix even when cured; at least, that's what the label says, and I read a lot of chatter a couple of years back about using it as an airbrush thinner... can't tell you now how good a result people were getting.

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https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/future-floor-polish comes up first in Google, but I read about it on Swanny's Models.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

 

The stuff seems to be a phenomenon in the modelling community, with at least two businesses re-selling it in smaller bottles over the net or in regions where the usual stuff is unavailable. I have messed with it a very little, mostly for washes, I can't say it's amazed me either way. The results were acceptable. I have never put it through an airbrush.

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Indeed, it's acrylic which is what the paint is made up of anyway. Cleaning the stuff is the same as any other.

I've experimented with everything from windshield fluid and windex to ammonia and alcohol. I like future the best. It just seems less harsh and "toxic". Leaves a bit of a shine but that can be fixed at the end if necessary.

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When MSPs were first released, I seem to recall some people saying they didn't always play nice with Future. (This was not in reference in particular to airbrushing.) Reaper's response to this is that they aren't going to formulate their paint to work well with a floor polish. Yes it is mostly just acrylic, so are products like Reaper's sealer and airbrush and other medium products, which are formulated to work with paint, so are probably better choices. I know people have come up with lots of cool hobby uses for Future, and I use it myself in lieu of buying a gloss sealer, but it might not be the best choice for this particular use.

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