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Experiments in Bones


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It makes me think of the line from the song from Chicago:

 

Mona: I loved Al Lipstuffz more than I could possibly say. He was a real artistic guy, sensitive, a painter. But he was always trying to find himself. He'd go out every night looking for himself. And on the way, he found Ruth. Gladys. Rosemary. And Irving. I guess you could say we broke up because of artistic differences. He saw himself as alive. And I saw him dead.

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I have been more than remiss with my duties to the community, but with the Kickstarter fulfillment in overdrive, what better time to dig this up than now?

 

I have 1 test to check more than heavy handling and how well Bones stay in their shape. A handful will be run over with various applications of paint.

1. The two in dark blue are unprimed and either sealed or unsealed. I suspect the sealed one will be fine and that the smooth surfaces on the unsealed will be marred.

2. The two in red are primed (a combination of grey and white because the grey ran out) and, again, either sealed or unsealed.

3. The metallic looking one was sprayed with hammered metal spray paint because, hey, why not? I could see this being a good base for any of the dungeon dressings. This paint comes in a variety of colors and is easily found at hardware stores.

4. One will sit in the back of my car until I see a change (I doubt anything will happen with this one)

5. The partially painted mottled looking one was an attempt at a wash without priming.

 

I have 3 more of the same model untouched, should any of you have ideas, and can strip and retest those mentioned above. I will have pictures tomorrow morning after I test and after I figure out image linking.

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Here is an attempt at washing without priming

2rgopxc.jpg

It does, actually, help to see all the little details so it is not entirely a failure.

 

What I have noticed so far: Thinning GW paints is a lot different from thinning Reaper paints. Any water in GW and the paint will pull back from bare bones whereas water-thinned RPP does not. I like the white color of the bones, it covers very easily compared to pewter. Paint does seem to take longer to dry on bones than metal, but that could just be humidity related. Application itself is really no different from than on metal, just much lighter, and actually may be easier if you have the ratios of paint to thinner correct

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2pqui6c.jpg

This is everything before being run over. The red one on the table and the blue on the right are both sealed.

xoiib8.jpg

Just the one with hammered metal paint. I think it would work very easily for quick statues. Looks pretty cool and sticks very well to Bones.

2u9gvx1.jpg

This is the washed one with more ink than the first pic. A little better, but still mostly pooling in the recesses.

8vqdmv.jpg

I do think, that given an extraordinary amount of patience, one could come up with a camouflage pattern through successive washes very easily.

2jg9d3o.jpg

 

This one is unpainted. I know plastic will yellow in the sun and because my stuff gets some sun with where I have it, I'd like to see what having sun bet down on it will do. The unprimed and sealed model will set in my window for the next month to see if a painted figure is any different.

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This is the aftermath post, very large pictures, do be warned. This way you can all see the damage.

2nhdegg.jpg

ev9vzq.jpg

This is the Primed and Not Sealed one. There is a lot of scarring to the paint, but very little to the figure itself, which surprises me, clean it up a bit and it will look nearly fresh out of the blister.

6hp8w9.jpg

dbr05c.jpg

Primed and Sealed: Survived a little better than the other primed. The arm that is a separate piece is still attached, but there was a stress fracture on the ankle. Easily fixed, but worth noting. Some warping on the base that I suspect will return to normal very quickly.

sq57p1.jpg

105z0n5.jpg

Not primed and was sealed: By far the best condition of the five. The only point to show damage is the left knee, and they all show wear there. Some warping that is already returning to normal, but for the most part undamaged. This is definitely how I plan to do my bones.

ruczew.jpg

xwolu.jpg

No primer or sealer: Almost an imperceptible difference between this and the last one. Little more damage to the knee, some on the hair, and a bit on the cloak fold but not much more. This kinda surprises me.

 

I also ran over the hammered metal one, and that actually looks like I did nothing to it, so definitely a viable paint scheme.

 

When you all get your bony hordes, I greatly recommend not priming them. It looks like the primer is what failed more than the paint adhesion.

 

For storage, a bucket of bones is definitely possible. I would still seal everything, but there should be almost no chipping if you threw them all in a bucket, unlike metal where a 6 inch fall onto a pillow will ruin that bit that took hours to finish.

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Last of my ideas for testing: boil and reposition after painting/sealing. Bends no differently than before. The paint has been disrupted. I do not know if this is because that's just what happens all the time or if my sealant wasn't really cured (it's been quite some time so I don't think that's the issue), but, as instinct encourages boil your Bones PRIOR to painting.

 

Finally, mold lines: I don't use files so I cannot tell you how easy they would be to use for removing mold lines. However, I can only think that files would be difficult. I would suggest an Xacto knife on it's side and slowly resculpting the line down to nothing

 

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Activator. verb an agent that accelerates the curing process of super glue (also known as CA type glues) example: http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-PT715-Zip-Kicker-Pump/dp/B000H7H4OQ

 

Deactivator. verb an agent that debonds or uncures superglue for removals from skin and or parts bonded with CA type adhesives. example: http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-z-7-debonder

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Oddly enough some us would still like to know the effects of those items on bones like some one may want to use CA glue to attach a bones part to a metal or styrene plastic part or even possibly some type of foam. and other of us may have need to debond those parts with out cutting them off. for example how do you plan on separating the 2 bases you have glued together?

Edited by Baufrin
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