Jump to content

Basing all those Bones Kickstarters


Recommended Posts

I've been considering different and cost effective means to base the 500 or so figures I am getting next month from the Bones Kickstarter.

 

I have a ton of tile samples from an architect that cleared out their old stuff. However the majority aren't square or are smaller than 1" square.

 

I have access to slate from sidewalks breaking apart around the neighborhood. Seriously. Got about 5-10 pounds of the stuff of varying thicknesses. Makes a nice display base for the figures. You can see it on my two posted show off miniatures; Stone Giant Warrior & Thornback Troll.

 

But 500+ figures is a lot of bases. Okay so some don't fit on 1" square bases for use with fantasy games. But I did find a product that gets me a ton of bases for cheap. 5 cents a base cheap.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F8T9B8

 

415IA6UzQXL.jpg

 

It's a learning aid. $19.95 for 400 one-inch plastic tiles.

 

The colors don't matter, they'll get painted along with the figure. It's plastic so I can drill into it for pinning, etc.

 

I am sure there are alternatives, but for the price and my Prime free two-day shipping I said, "why not?"

 

Limited supplies are available, but for those of us who've bought in for multiples of the Vampire level it could be your answer to basing all those minis. Assuming you want to.

 

Mine will be here Friday. I'll add one to my Bones Garrick or Barnabas when I get them and post a picture of it with notes about it.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

7 cents a base for actual wargaming bases. 30mm rounds are the same price, and 25x50mm cavalry and 40mm squares are 10 cents each.

 

Just FYI.

 

~v

 

Appreciate the link. 7 cents is good (8.2 cents for 405pcs with shipping). I actually like the idea that the Learning Tiles are solid as they are for the bones and I don't have to fill the slots. Their solid nature also means I can more easily add pins for figures or terrain pieces like stumps, etc.

 

We'll see what comes of them when they arrive Friday.

 

As a co-worker pointed out, I can always use them to tile a primary color back splash on my counter. Though I like gmpathfinder's idea ... I can create a cool primary colored pattern on my car with enough of these. :blues:

Edited by Thrym
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have some Hirst arts floor tile moulds. 1" square for an OK cobblestone base, ready textured. Now, between the mould and a bucket of proper plaster it'll cost more than a plain plastic square, but much less than even a basic scenic base, spread across 200 miniatures!

 

http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/moldsfloor.html

 

$10 for 7lb of plaster, $30 for the mould. Divided by 200 = 20c per base. If you want two styles of base, 35c.

 

They are probably twice as thick as a normal base. I've used them on metal Reptus with acceptable results, I think some more basing material to contrast the large cobbles is needed to make them really shine.

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

That cavern floor mould looks really cool... but I probably won't purchase it due to shipping and all those other fun things.

How does plaster hold up as a base when you play with the minis for D&D etc?

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

That cavern floor mould looks really cool... but I probably won't purchase it due to shipping and all those other fun things.

How does plaster hold up as a base when you play with the minis for D&D etc?

I would recommend dental stone or something similar; plaster has a tendency to crumble, and doesn't age very well.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I use dental stone with my molds - I have several different types of floor tiles, so I can vary the bases.

 

When I couldn't find anywhere that sold dental stone in my area without paying significant shipping charges, I asked my dental clinic if they could help out. They were quite excited about the whole thing and now provide me with dental stone at their cost (Die Keen at just under $100 for a 50lb box), as long as I showed them the first building that I made with it (done). I also get debubblizer from them.

 

They even gave me a vibrating table as a gift when they were cleaning out their backroom, otherwise they would have thrown it out.

 

I have had people try and break/snap one of the 2' square floor tiles, and to date, no one has managed to do so.

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on whether or not you want the mold, or just some casts, there are several licensed distributors of casts from the Hirst Arts molds. My personal choice is Naloomi's Workshop. www.nalsworkshop.com. Most of the molds have 8 -10 tiles for $2 per cast, which comes out to about 20 -25 cents per tile.

Edited by Bonwirn
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ohhh nice. I've a suspicion the shipping for even the casts might be a touch painful - I need to get them to Australia. Its good to know about the dental plaster. Baby sister the dentist will come in handy, lol

Edited by kay13
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hydrostone, I think I used. It's a proper casting plaster, like dental plaster not PoP. It's tough as nails. You really have to work to break it or chip it. It is obviously not as tough as Bones or typical commercial plastic, but I expect it would mercilessly destroy resin bases of the same size. Or maybe be just as good, depending on how much hyperbole you like.

 

EDIT: this stuff takes paint and glue and works like a charm, I wouldn't recommend plain Plaster of Paris.

Edited by smokingwreckage
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hydrostone, I think I used. It's a proper casting plaster, like dental plaster not PoP. It's tough as nails. You really have to work to break it or chip it. It is obviously not as tough as Bones or typical commercial plastic, but I expect it would mercilessly destroy resin bases of the same size. Or maybe be just as good, depending on how much hyperbole you like.

 

EDIT: this stuff takes paint and glue and works like a charm, I wouldn't recommend plain Plaster of Paris.

Just don't soak it in vinegar.... ::P:

 

The Auld Grump, why you would be dipping it in vinegar, I don't know. But don't.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Coffee Nerdery Beer
      Hi there all, I've decided to dive into the deep end with finally trying the scary world of OSL. 😄
       
      Feel I've lost the plot on this ... so any advice on how to proceed with this would be greatly appreciated! (Having fun, though, despite not knowing what the hell I'm doing. 😁)
       
      I'm including a "top down" view, which is where I'm most confuddled. That dark line down his arm which represents the shadow from the staff which sits between the source of light ... it just doesn't look right to me.  🤔
       
      So, I'm all ears for suggestions on improvements!
       
       


    • By MoonglowMinis
      Been a minute since I've posted a WIP, so I figure I'd roughly document my current paintjob.

      I'm running a 5e game with a heavy focus on the Shadowfell, and our most recent addition to the party is a native of that realm - a Hexblood or "Hexen" in our game lore. These dark fey are the children of hags - The Mothers Three - and are made from earth, blood, and stolen souls.

      Going for a dark but vibrant paintjob - blue skin, and dark clothing.


      After priming, I like to block in my darkest colors. It makes it easier for me to avoid missing a hard-to-reach spot later, but without worrying too much if I get some paint where it's not supposed to be.  This method also helps me to visualize and plan out my colors better.

      I was instructed to paint her with blue skin, black hair, and dark clothing. I started with the skin. I based with Rich Indigo and plan on working up towards Surf Aqua.  I'm hoping this transition from a more purple-hue in the shadows to a bit of green in the highlight will look interesting, as well as kind of capture the overall color scheme.

      I chose a few other colors to sort of represent that scheme and stippled them over the base - Rich Indigo, Deep Ocean, and Carnival Purple. I eventually want the base to look like rocky terrain, but wanted to avoid neutral greys.
       
      Pure Black for the hair and then set about base coating the rest of the mini.
       
      I wanted to avoid all-black or shades of grey in her outfit so dark greens and purples will be used to keep things more colorful. The tattered robes got a mix of Pure Black and Deep Ocean. The fabric wraps are Dark Elf Shadow - hoping to keep the purpleish greys.

      I also slapped some Deep Ocean on the gemstone on her staff for a pop of color - will reuse this for other gemstone details.
       


      The base got washed in Pure Black - will play around with some drybrushing later. Metal details also got hit with pure black to work up to some NMM silver.
       
      Settled on Ashen Brown for the bone details. The slightly cooler purple hue should help the bones blend in with the rest of the mini.
      Also hoping to use the Ashen Brown to highlight the hair without it looking grey.

      Not much to see so far - just some quick basecoating before work this morning. Hoping she turns out as I'm picturing and not just a garish blob.

      Side note - this sculpt is one of those earlier Bones sculpts that are quite difficult to pick out details.  I'm inevitably going to paint over some random blob and not notice until later.
    • By Pancakeonions
      Got my Reaper Bones V goodies a bit ago, and slapped some paints onto the Pumkinhead beholder.  I used Citadel Wraithbone primer, contrast paints, and Army Painter Matte varnish and...  months later it remains slightly tacky.  It's not...  awful.  But it's enough that if I put it away in a box with other minis, I'm afraid it won't mix well.  I've left it out in the sun for a day, thinking that might 'bake' the stickiness out of it...  It did not.  
       
      I got Reaper Bones because I figured I could paint, varnish and throw into a box with all my prepainted minis.  Some of my older bones remain slightly tacky too.  But I figured that with this new round of Reaper Bones, they would have got that figured out.  I've painted up the undead giant, but not yet varnished him and I'm afraid to!
       
      I've read the various Reaper Bones help threads, many of which are very old (and one sent me to Facebook, though it looks like it's no longer available.  I don't do social media anymore, so not sure?). 
       
      Does anyone have any advice to help a guy out?  I'm pretty sure I shook my rattlecan varnish adequately.  I do live in western San Francisco and wonder if the humidity (fog, it's often cool and misty regardless of the season) may affect this.  I try to wait until the weather is clear.
       
      What are you doing to keep your Bones stickiness-free?  Any advice you might have would be helpful.
    • By KruleBear
      This one has been on the desk for awhile to receive paint as there was extra on the palette. I decided to finish him off last night. Added highlights to the cloak and skulls. Shaded everything, but the cloak with Army Painter Dark Tone. I didn’t add any highlights or shading beyond the basics as it isn’t a great cast. But, I think it turned out great for the toy box. 


       
       

    • By Lidless Eye
      Here's a collection of the second batch of finished minis I have from Bones V.


      Party like a Barty.


       

       
       

       
       

       

       

      Yoho, a Pirate's unlife for me:


       

       
       
      Draugr...I mean, Rune Wights.


       

       

       

       

       

       

      They're not sure why they've been typecast as Thieves:


       
       
      "What do your Elven eyes see?"


       
       
       
      Kobolds, the only thing as dangerous as a Giant Rat in a starter dungeon.
       

       
       
      Under the Sea.
       

       

       

       
       





  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 31 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...