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Basing all those Bones Kickstarters


Thrym
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I have some Hirst arts floor tile moulds. 1" square for an OK cobblestone base, ready textured. Now, between the mould and a bucket of proper plaster it'll cost more than a plain plastic square, but much less than even a basic scenic base, spread across 200 miniatures!

 

http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/moldsfloor.html

 

$10 for 7lb of plaster, $30 for the mould. Divided by 200 = 20c per base. If you want two styles of base, 35c.

 

They are probably twice as thick as a normal base. I've used them on metal Reptus with acceptable results, I think some more basing material to contrast the large cobbles is needed to make them really shine.

If you know someone who makes Hirst Arts castles or dungeons, they may have some excess 1" tile pieces. I always seem to have lots of them left over when I finish a project that has a patterned floor since the molds usually make more of the 1" squares than the other pieces.

 

 

I had considered this, but time, fragility and mess became an issue. Time to cut off all the bases from the figs, the mess and time for making the bases, they all would look alike. And the plaster was more brittle and chipped too easy. It was still cheaper and easier to buy the washers in bulk and then texture them as I desired. (But Hirst stuff if fun to play with, I love it!!!)

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You do realize that you can use stronger products than plaster in the Hirst Art molds? Stuff that doesn't chip?

 

I use dental stone - and have a challenge to anyone who can snap/break one (no one has managed to do so).

 

I have a lot of molds now, so I have a variety of tiles for mounting miniatures. Even when I use the rough stone, depending on how it is painted, it can look like carpet to grass to dirt.

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You do realize that you can use stronger products than plaster in the Hirst Art molds? Stuff that doesn't chip?

 

I use dental stone - and have a challenge to anyone who can snap/break one (no one has managed to do so).

 

I have a lot of molds now, so I have a variety of tiles for mounting miniatures. Even when I use the rough stone, depending on how it is painted, it can look like carpet to grass to dirt.

Which size tile? I'm pretty good at breaking things. I tend to use Excalibur (generally accepted as the strongest dental stone, in my experience) and can still get them to snap sometimes. On a strong day. :)

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While the 1" Hirst Arts floor tiles might be chipped if subjected to rough handling, the same can be said of the material used to texture a base and the paint on a figure. I have seen no chipping on tile bases during normal use in games. FYI, although I use hydrostone for castles and dungeons, I use resin reinforced dental plaster for "special applications" where the the cast pieces need to be more durable.

 

I don't understand the comment that "they would all look alike" since a plain floor tile can be textured and finished at least as easily as a washer or plastic base. The downside to using the Hirst floor tiles to base figures is that they are thicker than most plastic or metal bases so figures can look like they are standing on something when mixed with figures that do not have the same type bases. Thus, your tile based halfling might find it easy to look a human in the eye....

Edited by ferret
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I noticed a lot of square tiles....I rarely game with based minis (laziness) but want to get into the hobby paint scene hard-core. I'm sorely tempted to pick up a few hundred of the 1" diameter (1/8" internal diameter) washers and use those for my "common" Bones minis, I like the idea of them having a bit of weight and they are cheap (are they easy to make scenic?).

 

For the folks who use a lot of minis in games (whether RPG or wargames) do you prefer round or square, and why?

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Some games want squares to figure out if a figure has "based" ie., made it into base to base contact for combat. Circles can be easier to manage as they don't bump each other as badly, but then no squares for games where front, side, rear contact matter.

 

Personally I don't like washers much. Easier to get a decent visual result from a regular base, just IMO.

 

If you want stuff to look decent you need to give some thought to base aesthetics. For armies you want something that is quick but looks good and is uniform. A mate uses static grass over green paint. A bit simple close-up, but on 100+ undead it looks brilliant. I go middle road: Flat base, sand, paint brown, drybrush bone, add clumps of static grass. Looks pretty good.

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All look alike: I made the mistake of assuming that you were making them all cobblestone/stonework and that much work was being spent to keep that effect. My bad.

 

Found somthing else: Went to a local dollar store and found bags of 100 1" double-sided plastic bingo chips for $1.Light, no hole, cheapest yet at a penny each. (Maybe too light for gamers who bump tables a lot, but they looked good.)

 

(Testing is always good... <grin>) Just remember to go to a Fastener Supply and check more than one. I've got two suppliers here in Madison next door to each other, and one is 75% cheaper than the other.

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Lets say someone (me) would still like to use normal round wargaming bases to appease their OCD. Where could you get a lot of those for an ok price? Europe here. I used to have a site, but I cannot find it anymore. :(

 

If at all possible solid without a slot.

Edited by Maglok
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there are some chinese ebay stores that sell standard issue bases, in various sizes, in HUGE quantities. i personally will be waiting to see if Reaper throws up a post-bones bases package.

 

EDIT:

 

25mm round: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warhammer-40K-Fantasy-Bits-Round-Open-Base-25mm-x-100-PCS-/110802100478?pt=Games_US&hash=item19cc51e0fe

 

40mm round: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warhammer-40K-Fantasy-Bits-Round-Base-40mm-x-30-PCS-/110821103719?pt=Games_US&hash=item19cd73d867

Edited by Girot
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