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BigNorseWolf

Painting bones

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Is there a list of things to be aware of when prepping and paintinig bones that you might not come up with paintin a metal mini?

 

Apparently...

 

-Cleaning them is more important than with a metal mini

-They don't require primer

-most files won't work for getting the mold lines out.

 

 

Are these right? Anything else to be aware of?

 

 

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Those are correct. Washing with soap and water is essential. There may be many Bones that don't require it, but you can't tell until you try to put paint on and it goes all squirrelly - so best just to wash, rinse, and be sure of it.

 

Sanding sticks and nail file sticks do work on Bones, seam lines can also be removed with an x-acto blade.

 

Bones do not require primer and in my own personal experience they paint better without it. This may be a personal thing. Paint should be applied undiluted straight from the pot for the first coat to ensure a stable and thorough coverage. Consider this base coat your "primer" stage. After this, you may use thinned paints as normal.

 

Some of your Bones will, inevitably, come a bit warped. My own experiments with Bones have shown that the best method to cure this is to wash them first. Then to boil a pot of water to full boil. Prepare a bowl of cold water and some ice cubes close at hand. Using tongs of some sort, or tweezers, grasp the Bones mini by the base and submerge completely. I do this for a count of 30. Then remove and use your hand* to reposition the part. Hold in place, and dunk in the cold water. It will immediately solidify, and you'll feel it spring when it does. I hold it submerged for 30 seconds here as well.

 

In testing, this has resulted in miniatures which retain their new shape indefinitely so long as they are not subject to warping afterwards. Repeated bending of the mini will alter this new shape, as will washing it in warm water and leaving it in a bent position to dry. So long as these two issues are avoided, even the most bent club will stay in reshaped form.

 

Larger minis may require more boiling and cooling time. Smaller minis, perhaps less.

 

Bones miniature paint jobs are more robust than metal, but some additional dullcote as a finish doesn't hurt. They key is the undiluted basecoat, if that's good the mini will put up with a lot. My Bones Ogre survived a high speed collision with laminate floor to test his finish, and came away unscathed.

 

 

****IMPORTANT****

 

While my own Bones so far didn't get hot enough to cause injury, you'll want to be careful. Always practice safe modelling, and if in any doubt use a tool or protective wear rather than your bare hand. You may read this forum one day and discover this goblin is wearing bandages. Some Bones MAY still be hot when removed from the water.

Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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Addendum: Make sure you don't let the Bones mini hit the bottom of the pot where it's next to the burner. It might melt. This is also why you can't just put on a pot of Bones and walk away to let them merrily boil.

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Put a dishcloth at the bottom of the pot. Weigh it down at the edges with some metal cutlery or something if it starts floating too much. It's good for keeping delicate things away from the direct heat. As a bonus, this will sanitise the cloth.

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Put a dishcloth at the bottom of the pot. Weigh it down at the edges with some metal cutlery or something if it starts floating too much. It's good for keeping delicate things away from the direct heat. As a bonus, this will sanitise the cloth.

This is an excellent tip. Thanks. For safety's sake, I would bring up the principle of keeping art supplies entirely separate from cooking supplies. Bones seem to be made of a harmless plastic, but it's still a good principle.

 

I have two small cheap saucepans and a cake pan which are limited to studio use only, for when I have to sterilize jars or cook up some rabbitskin glue or do some other art-related heating. With two saucepans I can do a double boiler type thing if necessary. I even have a hot plate in my studio so those pans never get near the kitchen.

 

In the case of Bones, this may be an unnecessary precaution. But you never know.

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I'd call 'they don't require primer' to be subjective. I rarely want a basecoat of undiluted paint, so for me, they do require primer.

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I'd call 'they don't require primer' to be subjective. I rarely want a basecoat of undiluted paint, so for me, they do require primer.

Please take no offense, but this is a personal requirement, not a requirement of the material itself. To each their own. :)

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I have issues, even after washing, even using paint straight from the pot, with my basecoat on unprimed Bones. It's a lot less hassle and heartache to prime first, and I prefer a black undercoat anyway.

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I have issues, even after washing, even using paint straight from the pot, with my basecoat on unprimed Bones. It's a lot less hassle and heartache to prime first, and I prefer a black undercoat anyway.

Are you using Reaper MSPs or some other paint? It is an issue I haven't heard of before, at least not with MSP users.

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I have issues, even after washing, even using paint straight from the pot, with my basecoat on unprimed Bones. It's a lot less hassle and heartache to prime first, and I prefer a black undercoat anyway.

Are you using Reaper MSPs or some other paint? It is an issue I haven't heard of before, at least not with MSP users.
yes. MSP and P3 both give me the same issue, with the paint refusing to stay in place.

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I have issues, even after washing, even using paint straight from the pot, with my basecoat on unprimed Bones. It's a lot less hassle and heartache to prime first, and I prefer a black undercoat anyway.

Are you using Reaper MSPs or some other paint? It is an issue I haven't heard of before, at least not with MSP users.
yes. MSP and P3 both give me the same issue, with the paint refusing to stay in place.

How are you cleaning them? The reason I ask is I'm umming and arring over undercoating or not but if there is an issue ill just base coat!

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