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BigNorseWolf

Painting bones

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Some of your Bones will, inevitably, come a bit warped. My own experiments with Bones have shown that the best method to cure this is to wash them first. Then to boil a pot of water to full boil. Prepare a bowl of cold water and some ice cubes close at hand. Using tongs of some sort, or tweezers, grasp the Bones mini by the base and submerge completely. I do this for a count of 30. Then remove and use your hand* to reposition the part. Hold in place, and dunk in the cold water. It will immediately solidify, and you'll feel it spring when it does. I hold it submerged for 30 seconds here as well.

 

In testing, this has resulted in miniatures which retain their new shape indefinitely so long as they are not subject to warping afterwards. Repeated bending of the mini will alter this new shape, as will washing it in warm water and leaving it in a bent position to dry. So long as these two issues are avoided, even the most bent club will stay in reshaped form.

 

Larger minis may require more boiling and cooling time. Smaller minis, perhaps less.

 

Just got my Kickstarter stuff yesterday. :D I'm really excited about the larger minis I got like the storm giants and frost giants but I noticed the warping on a couple, such as one figure's spear. I'm a little nervous to do the above steps because y'know...boiling plastic. Anyway, any advice on how long the large-size figures may need to boil and then stay under the first ice-water bath? Twice as much time? Just 50% more? Also, do you mind elaborating on feeling it "spring" when the part sets/solidifies? I mean, I won't be chancing smudging/ruining the detailing on these figures, right? As long as I boil them properly without letting them touch the heat?

 

Thanks!!!

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Some of your Bones will, inevitably, come a bit warped. My own experiments with Bones have shown that the best method to cure this is to wash them first. Then to boil a pot of water to full boil. Prepare a bowl of cold water and some ice cubes close at hand. Using tongs of some sort, or tweezers, grasp the Bones mini by the base and submerge completely. I do this for a count of 30. Then remove and use your hand* to reposition the part. Hold in place, and dunk in the cold water. It will immediately solidify, and you'll feel it spring when it does. I hold it submerged for 30 seconds here as well.

 

In testing, this has resulted in miniatures which retain their new shape indefinitely so long as they are not subject to warping afterwards. Repeated bending of the mini will alter this new shape, as will washing it in warm water and leaving it in a bent position to dry. So long as these two issues are avoided, even the most bent club will stay in reshaped form.

 

Larger minis may require more boiling and cooling time. Smaller minis, perhaps less.

 

Just got my Kickstarter stuff yesterday. :D I'm really excited about the larger minis I got like the storm giants and frost giants but I noticed the warping on a couple, such as one figure's spear. I'm a little nervous to do the above steps because y'know...boiling plastic. Anyway, any advice on how long the large-size figures may need to boil and then stay under the first ice-water bath? Twice as much time? Just 50% more? Also, do you mind elaborating on feeling it "spring" when the part sets/solidifies? I mean, I won't be chancing smudging/ruining the detailing on these figures, right? As long as I boil them properly without letting them touch the heat?

 

Thanks!!!

I boiled my unicorn for 2 or 3 minutes with no problems at all. And it is far smaller than the giants. I'd try it for that long. The figure should become quite rubbery. If no good, do it for longer. Mine was sitting in a boiling roll of water.

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Some of your Bones will, inevitably, come a bit warped. My own experiments with Bones have shown that the best method to cure this is to wash them first. Then to boil a pot of water to full boil. Prepare a bowl of cold water and some ice cubes close at hand. Using tongs of some sort, or tweezers, grasp the Bones mini by the base and submerge completely. I do this for a count of 30. Then remove and use your hand* to reposition the part. Hold in place, and dunk in the cold water. It will immediately solidify, and you'll feel it spring when it does. I hold it submerged for 30 seconds here as well.

 

In testing, this has resulted in miniatures which retain their new shape indefinitely so long as they are not subject to warping afterwards. Repeated bending of the mini will alter this new shape, as will washing it in warm water and leaving it in a bent position to dry. So long as these two issues are avoided, even the most bent club will stay in reshaped form.

 

Larger minis may require more boiling and cooling time. Smaller minis, perhaps less.

 

Just got my Kickstarter stuff yesterday. :D I'm really excited about the larger minis I got like the storm giants and frost giants but I noticed the warping on a couple, such as one figure's spear. I'm a little nervous to do the above steps because y'know...boiling plastic. Anyway, any advice on how long the large-size figures may need to boil and then stay under the first ice-water bath? Twice as much time? Just 50% more? Also, do you mind elaborating on feeling it "spring" when the part sets/solidifies? I mean, I won't be chancing smudging/ruining the detailing on these figures, right? As long as I boil them properly without letting them touch the heat?

 

Thanks!!!

 

I know what you mean, I was so afraid to boil a mini I picked one I didn't care for first, boiled it and let it cool before risking any others. Rest assured though, the temperature of boiling water will not have any ill effects, many board members have done some repositioning without ever damaging a bones mini.

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Bryan, some time back, made mention of the melting and freezing points of the Bonesium. I can't recall what they are, however, rest assured, it is considerably higher then you can get water outside of a lab.

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Some of your Bones will, inevitably, come a bit warped. My own experiments with Bones have shown that the best method to cure this is to wash them first. Then to boil a pot of water to full boil. Prepare a bowl of cold water and some ice cubes close at hand. Using tongs of some sort, or tweezers, grasp the Bones mini by the base and submerge completely. I do this for a count of 30. Then remove and use your hand* to reposition the part. Hold in place, and dunk in the cold water. It will immediately solidify, and you'll feel it spring when it does. I hold it submerged for 30 seconds here as well.

 

In testing, this has resulted in miniatures which retain their new shape indefinitely so long as they are not subject to warping afterwards. Repeated bending of the mini will alter this new shape, as will washing it in warm water and leaving it in a bent position to dry. So long as these two issues are avoided, even the most bent club will stay in reshaped form.

 

Larger minis may require more boiling and cooling time. Smaller minis, perhaps less.

 

Just got my Kickstarter stuff yesterday. :D I'm really excited about the larger minis I got like the storm giants and frost giants but I noticed the warping on a couple, such as one figure's spear. I'm a little nervous to do the above steps because y'know...boiling plastic. Anyway, any advice on how long the large-size figures may need to boil and then stay under the first ice-water bath? Twice as much time? Just 50% more? Also, do you mind elaborating on feeling it "spring" when the part sets/solidifies? I mean, I won't be chancing smudging/ruining the detailing on these figures, right? As long as I boil them properly without letting them touch the heat?

 

Thanks!!!

 

 

 

Some of the thin Bones bits do fun tricks. So when you boil them they get all floppy and bent, but went they hit the ice water they'll solidify straightened out. Sometimes, depending on the part, you can feel this change through the tweezers you're holding them with. It's like "droop, droop, droop" dunk "SPROING!" It's neat.

 

Boiling time is tough to gauge, but after a few small-medium pieces you'll know what sort of floppery texture you want for best manipulation. It's thickness more than size - the great worm is the longest boiler of the First 29 SKUs, because it's so solid. 3-4 minutes to really get the heat to penetrate.

 

For most cases, though, 30 seconds will do if the part is reasonably thin. The goal to keep in mind is 2-stage: when boiling, dunk the mini long enough to let the heat penetrate all the way in. When cooling, dunk the mini long enough to get all that heat back out.

 

Do this right and it won't warped back on you to an incorrect position. Note this is only tested sure to work to correct back to its first molding shape, and may not work for a major new reposition. I.E. If an ogre has his club up over his head as molded and you boil to reset it to a different position down lower, that might not stick in the long run. But if his club was warped, and you boiled him to get it correct over his head again, that will stay.

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Thanks for the advice, guys. :) It's my Fire Giant Queen who needs re-positioning most. I'm pretty sure I can get her spear into the right position but her base is also a little warped and it'd require more pressure to push it flat while in the ice-water bath. Should I try to get that flat first and then work on holding her spear straight for a second boil/dunk?

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I probably would. If you're doing it like that, or working with a thickish part, it's also not a bad idea to overcorrect a bit and warp it a little too far in the opposite direction. As it returns to normal tension it should go to the right spot in a little bit. Flit's wings are like this - if you want them situated right then when you pop him out you have to bend them both all the way down. After a week they'll creep to a normal spread position and stay put.

 

So if you fix her base first, then overcorrect a little so you don't lose the correction when you do the short dunk to fix the spear. But the spear might correct on its own anyways, you'll find that out when you do the first dunk. Some of the Bones with multiple bends can be a bit fiddly, but if you can do all the bends at once it's best.

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I'm just guessing since I haven't tried this yet, but to flatten a warped base, would it help to press the boiled figure against a smooth stone or metal slab, either frozen or immersed in ice water?

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i was able to reshape my bones with hot tap water, no boiling required. I have however, boiled many a WOTC D&D minis. Boiling works great.

 

I also experienced the paint rubbing off. It was very disheartening. First, let it dry all the way. This will take a day. avoid diluting paints too much. I use 2:1 paint to water and it does alright. And as already mentioned, wash, wash, wash that mini!

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Yes, if you watch how you grip it. You want to be careful not to deform the upper structure of the mini by pushing down on it.

 

 

That sounds so dirty.....

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