Jump to content

Cash's Workbench


Recommended Posts

Index to WIP/Completed projects.

 

 

Gnoll Spearman, Ral Partha Completed

Firebrand Drone, Studio McVey WIP|Completed 1st place 'Getting Started' Studio McVey forum contest

77005: Ogre Chieftain, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

06023: Anhurian Swordsman (L2PK1), Reaper WIP|Completed

02544: Barrow Rat (L2PK1), Reaper WIP|Completed

02512: Tsuko, Male Monk (L2PK2), Reaper WIP|Completed

02621: Laurana, Sorceress (L2PK2), Reaper WIP|Completed

02924: Bertok, Barbarian (L2PK4), Reaper WIP|Completed

02811: Dain Deepaxe (L2PK5), Reaper WIP|Completed

03638: Orson Lugrum, Evil Wizard, Reaper WIP|Completed

02558: Anduriel, Elf Warrior (L2PK3), Reaper WIP|Completed

Ororo, 60129: Chelaxian Infernal Binder, Reaper WIP|Completed

02608: Tyden, Barbarian (L2PK3), Reaper WIP]|Completed

77020: Bathalian, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

Goblin Archer 1, Ral Partha WIP|Completed

Avatar, 03556: Ashlan Fellthrush, Heroic Paladin, Reaper WIP|Not Completed

Shanna the Cave Girl, Bombshell Minis WIP|Completed

03353: Pirate King and Queen, Reaper WIP|Completed 3rd place 'Painting Excuses Pulp Team Category' Reaper forum contest

Above with Highland Terrier, Darksword Completed

77053: Zombies (3), Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

77047: Goldar, Male Barbarian, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

77055: Anval Thricedamned, Evil Warrior, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed Silver medal Painters ReaperCon 2014

77076: Lysette, Female Elf, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed 2nd place 'Bones Beauty Pageant' Reaper forum challenge

01430: The Nativity, Reaper WIP| I forgot to take Completed pics :(

77143: Townsfolk: Undertaker, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed 1st place 'Terrifying Fall Contest' Reaper forum contest

02370: Luther Baldwin, Reaper WIP|Completed

Doug, Survivor; Zombicide S1, Guillotine Games WIP|Completed

Flo, Survivor; Zombicide S1, Guillotine Games WIP|Completed

Twilight Knight; Kingdom Death WIP|Completed 3rd place 'Painting Death' Reaper forum challenge

Female Elven Archer; Asgard Minis WIP|Completed

Josh, Phil and Ned, Survivors; Zombicide S1, Guillotine Games WIP|Completed

77149: Damien, Hellborn Gunslinger; Reaper Bones WIP|Completed 1st place 'Bad Boys Challenge' Reaper forum challenge | Gold medal Open ReaperCon 2014

03322: Efreeti Emir; Reaper WIP|Completed

Svetlana; Red Box Games WIP|Completed

02994: Noreth Skyblade, Elf; Reaper WIP|Completed

Rollo the Barbarian; Red Box Games WIP|Completed

Zachary, Kingdom Death: Monster survivor (plastic) WIP|Completed

Scottish Highlander; Nocturna Models WIP|Completed

 

 

 

 Consolidated L2PK Open/Group index

 

 

 

 

 

I bumped the original first post down, so don't think Dadcubed is crazy with his reply!

Edited by CashWiley
  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I guess I should start wrapping these WIPs into a single thread at some point. That time is now! The place is here!

First up we have the RPG March challenge project. The idea is to take a mini and paint it up like a character from a video game RPG. I decided on one of my vary favorite CRPGs of all time, Ultima. The model will be painted as the Avatar, the player's character.

I started with 03556: Ashlan Fellthrush, Heroic Paladin. First thing that had to go was the shield emblem, as that needs to be a serpent.

 

Avatar_WIP_1.JPGAvatar_WIP_2.JPG

 

Then priming and lining.

 

Avatar_WIP_3.JPGAvatar_WIP_4.JPG

 

And finally the base coating.

 

Avatar_WIP_5.JPGAvatar_WIP_6.JPG

 

Bronze skin, blond hair, white tabard, lots of gold. My first stab at white, I'm going for a cool white and that blue will really be more for the undersides and very deepest folds, not much should show by the end. There's going to be prominent freehand on this, I'm a bit daunted but it should be educational.

 

 

The whole mini is so warm I wanted to put in some cool colors. On the other hand, a warm white may have been more cohesive. Thought about it for a while then just grabbed a color and started painting.

Edited by CashWiley
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The whole mini is so warm I wanted to put in some cool colors. On the other hand, a warm white may have been more cohesive. Thought about it for a while then just grabbed a color and started painting.

It's hard to conceptualise a cool undercoat with warm armour vs a warm undercoat for the tabard. So much will change in the colours as it painted. The fun of doing unique concepts with miniature painting! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies for the crap pics. Another month and I should be back at the desk with more lighting.

 

Avatar_WIP_7.JPGAvatar_WIP_8.JPG

 

Second layer for the white, Snow Shadow over all but the deepest shadows.

 

Avatar_WIP_9.JPGAvatar_WIP_10.JPG

 

Third layer, Ghost White. Starting to work against me, getting chalky.

 

Avatar_WIP_11.JPGAvatar_WIP_12.JPG

 

Final layer, Pure White. Super chalky. Decided to walk away from it for the night and look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow.

 

White is so difficult, I welcome any feedback on using it better. White and paints mixed with it have been a real struggle for me and I haven't learned how to layer with it yet. I like to use thin layering. Halp!

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is great, the challenge would be incomplete without the Avatar. I like the idea of using a cool white to balance out the orange, but he is still very orange. Depending on which version you are going for, maybe a deep red would help? But I have faith in the eight virtues that you will figure it out.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To get rid of the chalk texture add some reaper brush on sealer to your paint. Wren recommended it to me last summer and I have yet to have any issues since. If you need to fix what you've already painted just add it in a 2:1 or 3:1 mixture (sealer: paint) then to some thin glazing till it gets corrected. May take 10 passes or so.

 

I think white is easier if you shade down from your brightest highlight then reclaim where needed. I also have seen it used, but not tired myself yet, blue or pink to shade white and it looks awesome. Really thin glazes of color so the deepest shadows only have a bit of color. Thought I had an example saved on my drive but I couldn't find it.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, I do like the idea of glazing down from the highest high. I did that with Orson's blue robe down to dark purples and it looked so smooth. I'm making a note here. Isn't the brush-on sealer just a matte medium? I use liquitex but I've been trying to simplify things by just thinning with water the last couple projects. I'm making another note. There will be cake later.

 

Pragma, the 'orange' is the base coat of Oiled Leather for the nmm gold. His face is also 'orange', he's not from Jersey, it's the shade color for the bronzed skin triad. I like it for the similarity to Oiled, actually. Both components will go in very different directions soon enough. Actually, the amount of nmm gold is quite substantial, I was considering making more of it steel...I also considered the classic red tunic, but I wanted to tackle white. Until I have the basics covered I have to keep pushing myself to learn new things with every project.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Isn't the brush-on sealer just a matte medium?

 

I use to think that as well, as Wren said it was similar enough, but it smells like a varnish and not like the P3 matte medium I have. I only have to use this with skin tones and whitish things but I tend to add it to any highlight as it's seriously a miracle worker with my glazing.

Edited by MonkeySloth
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

White is not as hard as black. :)

 

The cool white will be good when its done have faith.

 

As to painting it the blending and layering techniques you have developed work the same with white, but the highlight of pure white needs to be much larger than for a normal colour. Depending on how bright you want your white up to half of the colour can be pure white.

 

Good to see you start a workbench as well :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, it's kind of the opposite of black, where you want to leave a lot of the shadows in black to keep the color readable. I find black easier because so far my main challenge hasn't been colors but rather the consistency of white. The black on Ororo came out ok, even if it's a biznatch to photograph.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too have had this chalky problem with white. It's extremely frustrating. I have to say that blending down from bright white is easier. But I am wondering about doing a two phase method. So make 50% top highlight white and bottom half the blue then two brush blend the two together in the middle? Loving conversations around this, will move my painting on ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there! I'm not dead yet, it's just a flesh wound! This last project got a bit much for me, so I took a month off. I'd been pushing myself pretty hard with painting the previous eight months straight and needed a break. Also, going to set the Avatar aside for a while just for the clean break. That ton of nmm gold isn't what I want to start back into it with!

 

So today I cleaned up a couple options for the next project. I think I'll be painting Cave Girl from Bombshell, with Shanna the She-Devil from Marvel's Savage Lands as inspiration. I also cleaned up her companion as well as a couple Sedition Wars game minis, a trooper and zombie.

 

Shanna is pinned and ready to go, then back in the saddle. Maybe give those G&G brushes a whirl.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's my thought as well. The two SW minis will be a bit more than just rush jobs, as they are prototypes for color schemes to follow. But that will then give me the blueprint for a whole slew of minis that are really only tabletop, as well as the occasional hero unit or metal non-game version to a higher standard.

 

Shanna and the strain zombie primed and ready to paint. Trooper I'm debating the best way to approach him. Prime, paint, assemble? Prime, assemble, paint? Assemble, prime, paint? Looks tough getting into the space between his gun and body after assembly.

 

Have to clean up the camera (1GB card full!) but should have at least some primed pics tonight or tomorrow. Rain for the rest of the vacation, so half the chores are excluded :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Similar Content

    • By Grumpy Cave Bear
      I haven't done a WIP in quite a while, and I want to keep committed to clearing my Shelf of Shame for the year.  So here's an unfinished mini from my shelf:  Reaper 77108: Shadow Dragon:


       
      I had assembled & primed this mini before, but hadn't painted it, so it sat on my shelf for a while.  So two nights ago, I washed it, sprayed Stynylrez black primer over it, then sprayed a base coat of Burgundy Wine. 
       
      ...and that's where it stands.  Hopefully, I have an opportunity for more work tonight.
       
      I don't have any ideas at present for what the color scheme will be, save that I want it to be purple.
    • By Pegazus
      (Now a 2022 WIP)
       
      Yes, a 2020 ReaperCon WIP! And a massive undertaking at that. I'm trying very hard not to nerd out and put this whole project into, er, Project. There's just so many pieces to keep track of, that maybe I'll just use this first post to keep track of things.
       
      Some background stuff, starting with a quote from the "Paint a giant robot! Group WIP" where I wrote some of what's planned:
       
      You can read the rest of that post here: Paint a giant robot post and a second one to see where I'm going with this: PLA print post in same topic
       
      Biggest takeaway is that, while useful, my PLA printer can only do so much. I have a resin printer backed on Kickstarter, but considering it's now 3 years late, I don't think I should hold my breath on it ever showing up. Especially when I can get a new Elegoo Mars resin printer with more capability for relatively cheap (<$300). The PLA machine was bought with both hobby and household goals in mind, and it's served well. But the resolution just ain't there! More on that down the posts.
       
      I also had the chance to gain some experience on  paper plants at ReaperCon (Main post for that in the Terrain section post here: Vellum Paper Plants - Alien Jungle (WIP)
       
      Basically, I have the scrap booking machine to make my own alien plants:
       
      Which now leads me to this WIP. This is going to tie all those pieces together. The robot WIP will still be to get a good camo scheme, but that print job is not going to be used for the final diorama. Instead, that will be the resin printer's job. So, let's break down the WIP work that I can see so far, and will be edited later to add things and mark completions.
       
      Tasks to be completed:
       
      Figures Needed
      Wight (being pulled down backwards, caught by hidden lines) Gremlin Unit 01 (stole a supply crate and ran; actually just bait to get the larger CAV to follow) Gremlin Units 02 and 03 (trip line pair, successfully snagging Wight across the chest) Gremlin Units 04 and 05 (trip line pair, successful across another part of the chest) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Unit 06 (burner unit, cut Wight's left gun in two) Gremlin Units 07 and 08 (trap door unit, hiding entrance to jungle path with camo doors strapped to them) Gremlin Units 09 and 10 (trip line pair, successful across right thigh) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Units 11 and 12 (trip line pair, broken cable across chest, possibly falling over from sudden jolt) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Unit 13 (ECM unit, some large radar dish looking thing) EDIT: Maybe use older model (2018 or 19 ReaperCon entry) Gremlin Units 14, 15 and 16 (cargo units, loaded up with stolen supplies and headed out) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Units 17, 18, 19, and 20 (gun units) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Units 21, 22, and 23 (missile units) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Unit 24 (large gun unit) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Unit 25 and 26 (junked units; scavenged for parts?) 2/27/22: Not going to be a permanent camp, so no junkyard Gremlin Unit 27 (2nd style missile unit) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut Gremlin Unit 28 (personnel carrier unit) 2/27/22: Too busy; cut  
      Wight Conversion
      Right Leg: cut from pelvis; reposition Feet: cut off both feet and swap positions since the tread is only on one foot Base: cut away from right foot, possibly keeping full base around left foot Left arm (maybe): cut gun into two pieces, having one falling to the ground after being cut by a heat lance/chainsaw rope  
      Details to be included
      Camo doors at front leaving marks on the dirt path, but hiding the ambush from the main trail Pieces of old broken larger CAV units around 2/27/22: No longer a permanent encampment Wight gun cut in two, maybe showing inner details. May have to 3D print an add-on piece Dust being kicked up by the stolen crate (going to try using dyed cotton) IN WORK One cable snapping dynamically, with several bends and twists (superglue on thread?) Multiple vehicle tracks around camp Campfire and tents for people A latrine Other camp details (laundry, chairs, sports equipment, bored carvings, etc)  
      Jungle Plants (V=Vellum cuts, B=bought, S=Sculpted, F=Found, P=Printed)
      Large lotus flower like plants, but dry land and maybe odd colors with a large conifer cone growing from the middle (V) Jester hat plant (balls on stems around a central point) (V) COMPLETED Spiky yucca like plant (V) Jagged leaf plant (V) Tentacle plant (V) Tripod trees (three spoke trunks) (V) Large palm fronds (S) Coral like trees (P) Horn tree (lots of horn shaped leaves from a central trunk) (P, V) Ball vine (like ivy but with odd leaf shapes) (V) Cabbage-like jungle plants with large wrinkled leaves (V) Fuzzy vines (thin wire coated with static grass) (S) Anything I can buy from N/HO scale train setups and painted alien-ish (B) Reaper figures that can be clipped and painted to be plants (B) Odd trees with strange leaf shapes (onion shaped) (V) IN WORK Random grass-like jungle plants (V) IN WORK Stem ends from mandarin oranges (seriously, pull one off and look at it, stem towards the ground) (F) Anything and everything else (VBSFP)  
      Base mounting system
      Design and print modular tiles with bristles on top (basically, Bristle Block toys) Allows mounting of all the above jungle plants Fill in around plants with thinned plaster via a syringe to create the ground surfaces
    • By RFS-81
      As you can see from the title, I'm a noob playing around with layering. Or glazing? I'm not sure about the difference, in the tutorial videos I watched, both techniques come down to painting diluted paints over a base coat.
       

       
      I've painted the armor with a black-and-silver mix, then painted over with diluted silver where I imagine the light hits. I'm happy with the effect. I feel like I've messed up the face. I layered Vallejo Paint Bronze Fleshtone (over that color + white) to simulate shade from the helmet, and tried to pain the eyes gold because she's depicted with glowing eyes in the official artwork. I think I should just have gone for skin-wash... I hope I can salvage it. I also see now that I haven't been thorough with removing the mold lines and messed up the gold detail somewhat.
       
      I'm a bit unsure about what to do with the hair and, well, whatever you call this piece of clothing.
       

       
      I painted shades on the lower part of the hair, in the areas where multiple layers of cloth overlap and on the right where the wing is above it. I just glazed over with a red + black mix. I'm kind of going back and forth thinking that it looks too dark and smudgy, and (especially on the front) not dark enough. I'm also unsure if I should add highlights or shades on the wavy part. It's relatively flat, and most tutorials I've seen deal with robes that have very deep folds.
       
      I definitely want to add highlights to the hair, but I don't know what color. Mixing red and white would give pink, and that doesn't seem right. I tried glazing with orange, but wasn't happy with the result, so I glazed over with red again. It's still slightly visible.
       
      Some other minor detail, I've tried to paint the shadow of the body on the base of the wings. Not sure I like it, but you only see it when you go looking for it anyway...

       
      One more picture that I took, can't really think of any commentary.

       
      Any advice on layering or any other things is very welcome!
    • By Ryan S
      Hi, I want to start this to get me motivated to get some accountability and hopefully guilt myself into working. So here is the very first of hopefully many steps.
       
      The first step is to prime the miniature, I've done that, the 2nd step? To photograph the miniature to capture the volumes of real light that shows where I want my light source. For this I want two light sources. So really that means I just used my computer screen and my ceiling light, adjust the miniature to taste and get the angle I want to set the light.
       
      The screen light is whiter and will be the light from outside the window, the yellower ceiling light will be my tavern fire light and will be the primary light source.
       
      The skin will be fairly shiny so this is pretty much a mandatory process to get those realistic sheens....because I'm literally stealing form reality it helps a lot. If I were a better painter I could fake the light sources with enough knowledge. Thankfully  I have some serious shadows on the model, and my mid tones will have a lot of room for blending.
       
      The problem now? Picking my colors.
       
      What do I know? I know the floor is wood colored and the axe/haft materials
       
      I know that I'm going to want off white and pinks for eye whites and gums teeth etc.
       
      The gold of the primer is actually a really beautiful color for a fantasy creature, so I might see if I can't keep that.
       
      So Gold, pink, whites/off whites, and browns, I don't know if I want a two toned or patterned beholder. I think this is gonna be a challenge whatever I do. I think I want to go for a fleshy color
       

    • By Marsya
      Since I haven’t had a WIP in a very long time, I thought this mini would be perfect for it. I plan to paint her up for a Christmas gift for a friend and figured to keep me on track I’d do a WIP. 
       
      I have a few minis in progress she’ll be my main priority after my Darksword Stephanie Law Bard. I prepped her and primed yesterday after the humidity finally dropped.
       
      My current projects in various stages on my desk. 

       
      And just the pinup after some prep work 

       
      A few places I could have spent more time on but figured I’ll prime and see what stands out. 
       

       
      I used army painter matte black primer followed by Tamiya fine white primer. For the bits on her base I left them in black since she will be the focal point no need to use white on them, it’ll help the colors be a bit more muted. 
       
      And finally my quick mock up for color checking. I usually just print a stock photo and use my paints over it to plan the general scheme. 

       
      Now to finish up my bard then onto tackling her flesh. Since she’ll have a hint of sheer with her stocking I needed to be sure the color for her skin and the sheer works and won’t lose the effect due to the color choices. 
       
      Feel free to post C&C throughout, or ask questions. I’m always happy to share what I can. I’ll do my best to share the steps I take and colors used. 
       
      Happy painting everyone. 
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 1 Anonymous, 15 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...