Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
CashWiley

Cash's Workbench

Recommended Posts

Index to WIP/Completed projects.

 

 

Gnoll Spearman, Ral Partha Completed

Firebrand Drone, Studio McVey WIP|Completed 1st place 'Getting Started' Studio McVey forum contest

77005: Ogre Chieftain, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

06023: Anhurian Swordsman (L2PK1), Reaper WIP|Completed

02544: Barrow Rat (L2PK1), Reaper WIP|Completed

02512: Tsuko, Male Monk (L2PK2), Reaper WIP|Completed

02621: Laurana, Sorceress (L2PK2), Reaper WIP|Completed

02924: Bertok, Barbarian (L2PK4), Reaper WIP|Completed

02811: Dain Deepaxe (L2PK5), Reaper WIP|Completed

03638: Orson Lugrum, Evil Wizard, Reaper WIP|Completed

02558: Anduriel, Elf Warrior (L2PK3), Reaper WIP|Completed

Ororo, 60129: Chelaxian Infernal Binder, Reaper WIP|Completed

02608: Tyden, Barbarian (L2PK3), Reaper WIP]|Completed

77020: Bathalian, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

Goblin Archer 1, Ral Partha WIP|Completed

Avatar, 03556: Ashlan Fellthrush, Heroic Paladin, Reaper WIP|Not Completed

Shanna the Cave Girl, Bombshell Minis WIP|Completed

03353: Pirate King and Queen, Reaper WIP|Completed 3rd place 'Painting Excuses Pulp Team Category' Reaper forum contest

Above with Highland Terrier, Darksword Completed

77053: Zombies (3), Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

77047: Goldar, Male Barbarian, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed

77055: Anval Thricedamned, Evil Warrior, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed Silver medal Painters ReaperCon 2014

77076: Lysette, Female Elf, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed 2nd place 'Bones Beauty Pageant' Reaper forum challenge

01430: The Nativity, Reaper WIP| I forgot to take Completed pics :(

77143: Townsfolk: Undertaker, Reaper Bones WIP|Completed 1st place 'Terrifying Fall Contest' Reaper forum contest

02370: Luther Baldwin, Reaper WIP|Completed

Doug, Survivor; Zombicide S1, Guillotine Games WIP|Completed

Flo, Survivor; Zombicide S1, Guillotine Games WIP|Completed

Twilight Knight; Kingdom Death WIP|Completed 3rd place 'Painting Death' Reaper forum challenge

Female Elven Archer; Asgard Minis WIP|Completed

Josh, Phil and Ned, Survivors; Zombicide S1, Guillotine Games WIP|Completed

77149: Damien, Hellborn Gunslinger; Reaper Bones WIP|Completed 1st place 'Bad Boys Challenge' Reaper forum challenge | Gold medal Open ReaperCon 2014

03322: Efreeti Emir; Reaper WIP|Completed

Svetlana; Red Box Games WIP|Completed

02994: Noreth Skyblade, Elf; Reaper WIP|Completed

Rollo the Barbarian; Red Box Games WIP|Completed

Zachary, Kingdom Death: Monster survivor (plastic) WIP|Completed

Scottish Highlander; Nocturna Models WIP|Completed

 

 

 

 Consolidated L2PK Open/Group index

 

 

 

 

 

I bumped the original first post down, so don't think Dadcubed is crazy with his reply!

Edited by CashWiley
  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

White is so tricky. Looking forward to see how this progresses. The whites I have done have all been ivory / brown up to white. Think the blue up to white will be good.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I should start wrapping these WIPs into a single thread at some point. That time is now! The place is here!

First up we have the RPG March challenge project. The idea is to take a mini and paint it up like a character from a video game RPG. I decided on one of my vary favorite CRPGs of all time, Ultima. The model will be painted as the Avatar, the player's character.

I started with 03556: Ashlan Fellthrush, Heroic Paladin. First thing that had to go was the shield emblem, as that needs to be a serpent.

 

Avatar_WIP_1.JPGAvatar_WIP_2.JPG

 

Then priming and lining.

 

Avatar_WIP_3.JPGAvatar_WIP_4.JPG

 

And finally the base coating.

 

Avatar_WIP_5.JPGAvatar_WIP_6.JPG

 

Bronze skin, blond hair, white tabard, lots of gold. My first stab at white, I'm going for a cool white and that blue will really be more for the undersides and very deepest folds, not much should show by the end. There's going to be prominent freehand on this, I'm a bit daunted but it should be educational.

 

 

The whole mini is so warm I wanted to put in some cool colors. On the other hand, a warm white may have been more cohesive. Thought about it for a while then just grabbed a color and started painting.

Edited by CashWiley
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The whole mini is so warm I wanted to put in some cool colors. On the other hand, a warm white may have been more cohesive. Thought about it for a while then just grabbed a color and started painting.

It's hard to conceptualise a cool undercoat with warm armour vs a warm undercoat for the tabard. So much will change in the colours as it painted. The fun of doing unique concepts with miniature painting! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apologies for the crap pics. Another month and I should be back at the desk with more lighting.

 

Avatar_WIP_7.JPGAvatar_WIP_8.JPG

 

Second layer for the white, Snow Shadow over all but the deepest shadows.

 

Avatar_WIP_9.JPGAvatar_WIP_10.JPG

 

Third layer, Ghost White. Starting to work against me, getting chalky.

 

Avatar_WIP_11.JPGAvatar_WIP_12.JPG

 

Final layer, Pure White. Super chalky. Decided to walk away from it for the night and look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow.

 

White is so difficult, I welcome any feedback on using it better. White and paints mixed with it have been a real struggle for me and I haven't learned how to layer with it yet. I like to use thin layering. Halp!

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is great, the challenge would be incomplete without the Avatar. I like the idea of using a cool white to balance out the orange, but he is still very orange. Depending on which version you are going for, maybe a deep red would help? But I have faith in the eight virtues that you will figure it out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To get rid of the chalk texture add some reaper brush on sealer to your paint. Wren recommended it to me last summer and I have yet to have any issues since. If you need to fix what you've already painted just add it in a 2:1 or 3:1 mixture (sealer: paint) then to some thin glazing till it gets corrected. May take 10 passes or so.

 

I think white is easier if you shade down from your brightest highlight then reclaim where needed. I also have seen it used, but not tired myself yet, blue or pink to shade white and it looks awesome. Really thin glazes of color so the deepest shadows only have a bit of color. Thought I had an example saved on my drive but I couldn't find it.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, I do like the idea of glazing down from the highest high. I did that with Orson's blue robe down to dark purples and it looked so smooth. I'm making a note here. Isn't the brush-on sealer just a matte medium? I use liquitex but I've been trying to simplify things by just thinning with water the last couple projects. I'm making another note. There will be cake later.

 

Pragma, the 'orange' is the base coat of Oiled Leather for the nmm gold. His face is also 'orange', he's not from Jersey, it's the shade color for the bronzed skin triad. I like it for the similarity to Oiled, actually. Both components will go in very different directions soon enough. Actually, the amount of nmm gold is quite substantial, I was considering making more of it steel...I also considered the classic red tunic, but I wanted to tackle white. Until I have the basics covered I have to keep pushing myself to learn new things with every project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't the brush-on sealer just a matte medium?

 

I use to think that as well, as Wren said it was similar enough, but it smells like a varnish and not like the P3 matte medium I have. I only have to use this with skin tones and whitish things but I tend to add it to any highlight as it's seriously a miracle worker with my glazing.

Edited by MonkeySloth
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

White is not as hard as black. :)

 

The cool white will be good when its done have faith.

 

As to painting it the blending and layering techniques you have developed work the same with white, but the highlight of pure white needs to be much larger than for a normal colour. Depending on how bright you want your white up to half of the colour can be pure white.

 

Good to see you start a workbench as well :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, it's kind of the opposite of black, where you want to leave a lot of the shadows in black to keep the color readable. I find black easier because so far my main challenge hasn't been colors but rather the consistency of white. The black on Ororo came out ok, even if it's a biznatch to photograph.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I too have had this chalky problem with white. It's extremely frustrating. I have to say that blending down from bright white is easier. But I am wondering about doing a two phase method. So make 50% top highlight white and bottom half the blue then two brush blend the two together in the middle? Loving conversations around this, will move my painting on ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there! I'm not dead yet, it's just a flesh wound! This last project got a bit much for me, so I took a month off. I'd been pushing myself pretty hard with painting the previous eight months straight and needed a break. Also, going to set the Avatar aside for a while just for the clean break. That ton of nmm gold isn't what I want to start back into it with!

 

So today I cleaned up a couple options for the next project. I think I'll be painting Cave Girl from Bombshell, with Shanna the She-Devil from Marvel's Savage Lands as inspiration. I also cleaned up her companion as well as a couple Sedition Wars game minis, a trooper and zombie.

 

Shanna is pinned and ready to go, then back in the saddle. Maybe give those G&G brushes a whirl.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done that in the past. Last year I think I had about 3 months where I didn't paint (not back to back though). I'm trying to prevent that this year by forcing myself to do more 6-8 hour paint ups instead of constant back-to-back 20+ hour ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's my thought as well. The two SW minis will be a bit more than just rush jobs, as they are prototypes for color schemes to follow. But that will then give me the blueprint for a whole slew of minis that are really only tabletop, as well as the occasional hero unit or metal non-game version to a higher standard.

 

Shanna and the strain zombie primed and ready to paint. Trooper I'm debating the best way to approach him. Prime, paint, assemble? Prime, assemble, paint? Assemble, prime, paint? Looks tough getting into the space between his gun and body after assembly.

 

Have to clean up the camera (1GB card full!) but should have at least some primed pics tonight or tomorrow. Rain for the rest of the vacation, so half the chores are excluded :p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By rubegon
      I haven’t been on the forum much this year.  Since joining Anne Foerster’s Patreon I’ve been spending more time on Discord.
       
      I’ve been painting this guy following the paintalong she’s done for one of the tiers.  It’s the first time I’ve tried to do a “display quality” paint job.  Other firsts are NMM, freehand, leather texture, cloth texture, and sculpted base elements.
       
      I actually started this guy early this year, but then stopped painting altogether for about 4 months after the pandemic started.  I picked him back up in July and am getting close to finishing.  I’m posting a series of pics I’ve taken as I went, and will continue to post as I finish him up soon.

      Feb 29: prepped and primed, with some minor GS work

       
      Mar 1:  base GS sculpting

       
      — LONG BREAK —
       
      Aug 2:  skin lined, basecoated, and shaded


       
      Aug 6:  skin initial highlights

       
    • By Rahz
      Another 3D print that I’m working on, this time a big one.  I’ve shied away from buying/printing dragons for the most part as I have a ton of amazing Reaper ones still to paint (or finish... ) but this one was a freebie of sorts from one of the creators I follow on Patreon.  
       
      In keeping with my clear resin tricks, I whipped up the base really quickly and then stalled on how I was going to paint the actual dragon...  oops!  
       


       
      I masked off the crystals and plugged the holes for the feet and primed it with a mix of brown and grey Vallejo primers, drybrushed it with a tan followed by a tan mixed with white and then it got a series of Vallejo model washes (green, grey and dark brown).  I then peeled off the mask and gave the crystals a quick coat with Tamiya Clear Green.  
       
      For the actual dragon, the plan now is to paint the heavier scales like the base with the softer belly and flesh being brown.  
       

       

       

       

       
      Like my recent plague doctor bust, I masked his eyes so they will be the same green as the crystals on his base.  I toyed with putting a light in his head as well, but seems to be doing that to everything all of a sudden, and skipped it.  
       
      in case you’re wondering about the pink, that’s what mixing the Vallejo red and grey primers did. The base was that colour before the drybrush and washes. 
       
      Hoping to get some more work on the brown and get the drybrush done on his scales this weekend.  That’s going to be a lot of drybrushing!! 
       
      Thanks for looking.  
    • By MoonglowMinis
      So for awhile now I've had this goal, nay, this desire, nay, this primal compulsion to build a boat.  It is not enough to have hand drawn maps, or 2D terrain tiles.  I need a fully functioning 3D boat!  Well, maybe not fully functioning.  But I want to build a cool boat!
       
      I've been working on a nautical campaign full of swashbuckling, sailing, and sea monsters for a few years now.  It's my White Whale project.  Always just on the horizon.  It'll happen some day, but in the meantime, I have a million small projects to complete and extend the chase.  One of which is my desire to build a few different sized ships to enliven any possible naval combat.
       
      I actually attempted this about two years ago, just winging it and making some measurements and throwing them at some craft supplies.  I wanted a cheap option that wasn't too difficult to repeat that way I wouldn't be discouraged from making multiple ships.  So I limited it to cheap crafting materials like foamcore, wooden dials, popsicle sticks, and thumbtacks.  And the result wasn't  bad.  Especially for my first attempt at any kind of terrain building.


      It actually turned out rather nice!  To my surprise.  But I got hung up on mast and sail designs and never finished.

      The wood on the deck had 2x1in grid carved into it for easier D&D use.

      and the figurehead was designed to be modular.

      However, overtime the boat collected dust and little scratches.  I should have given it a coat of mod podge or sealant of some kind, but never did.  And eventually it had an unfortunate run in with an injured owl that we took in for a night.

      Here's the little devil himself.
       
      Anyways, I put this project on the back burner for long enough and feel inspired to dive back in.  Especially with a certain Bones ship on the Horizon that I'm still on the fence about getting.  I was doing some browsing on the web and recently found this wonderful little blog complete with loose instructions and a plan from a now defunct wargamming site.  The blog creator had found the old plan and adapted it to build something using most of the same materials I have already stockpiled. 


      There's a few choices that I like better than my first attempt so I think I'm going to use this as some inspiration as I give this boat thing another go.

      My hold up now is still those darn masts.  The original plan above used wood and required drilling out holes for the masts.  The blogger use foam for his ship and found random bits of tubing to house his masts.  I could try to find something random like that, but I was hoping to find something simpler for easy repetition.  And I would also like to keep the masts loose so they can be removed for easy storage, or to swap out the sails.  Any thoughts?

      Any resources, tips, recommendations are very welcome!  I'll post back here with any updates.

    • By Wroberts316
      my second miniature! I finished this about a month ago, but my matte finish finally came in so it is truly complete on the painting front. I'll be making a base once I get into my new house, so once I get started on that I'll add more pictures. 

    • By silentoutsidr
      Hi Everyone,

      This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too.
      I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme.

      First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty.

      2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced.

      3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back.

      4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye.

      5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light.

      6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together.

      Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?






  • Who's Online   12 Members, 0 Anonymous, 39 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...