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Bones are easier to pin if needed, but it is also much less necessary. Glue should be plenty. In fact, superglue should bond to the Bones material better than it does to pewter, regardless of weight.

 

^^This. This has already been my experience working with Agramon. I pinned my metal version, but not the Bones. I even twisted the Bones model around pretty good to check the bond strength, and it was no issue.

 

In fact, I wanted to try to take apart the pre-assembled large Fire Elemental for some fun conversion work, but found it nearly impossible without additional tools.

 

~v

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Sorry Bryan, I did not mean it to come off as if I thought Reaper had lied or I was upset or anything, I just did not catch the comment about assembly before. Alas, twas my own fault.

 

And from what everyone has been saying here, it does not sound like it will be TOO bad.

 

The two main questions I have about assembly from you guys:

 

1: Strength. Lets say I superglue a wing/arm to a mini. These bones are pretty flexible, which I like! But what are the chances of the glue cracking or an arm/wing coming lose when bent?

 

2: Extra Strength. One of the things I had feared when assembly was mentioned, that no one has said here yet, was the Pinning thing, of putting a rod or wire into a joint to make sure it stays. With Bones being a lot lighter than pewter, I'm guessing this is not as much of an issue?

 

 

 

I have tested the superglue, because I lopped off Michelle Dancing Blade's arm. I not only reglued this without pinning, it's the weakest bond you can have - it's not Bones to Bones, it's paint to paint. I twisted and mangled it around pretty good, and I'm convinced the only way it's coming off again is if I put her under the knife.

 

I see no reason for pinning or additional strength. The weak point of superglue is shear strength, or side to side twisting. That's why in the old commercials dude with the hardhat was suspended - you can tug on superglue in a straight line all day. Tie an ox to it if you want. It's never going to pull apart. But twist it to one side? Snap!

 

With Bones, though, the material itself is so flexible that it absorbs the vast majority of shear force applied to it. That's why I can animate Michelle and make her swing and chop with no worries - even with a poor surface to surface bond. The paint might give way with enough force, but the glue? If it was Bones to Bones?

 

Good luck. I bet you could run over Kaladrax with an armoured car and the bonds won't break.

 

 

ETA: if you're really worried about it, use the gel type superglue. I used krazy glue gel, orange tube. It's what I had on hand. But I think the regular stuff would do just as well.

Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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So does that mean if we want to convert some of these figures, we should be careful about twisting motions?

 

Probably not. Superglue acts, effectively, by bonding water molecules to water molecules. In my experience, plastic to plastic bones can take a lot more punishment than metal to metal for some reason. I thought, originally, that some solvent in superglue melted the plastic slightly, but I'm no longer sure of that at all.

 

Any chemists in the audience that can thrill us with their knowledge? I, for one, reserve the right to be wrong, mistaken, or full of crap on this one : )

 

Edit - I meant "plastic to plastic bonds" above, but the typo is revealing of where my attention is so I'm leaving it in place : )

Edited by Laoke
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Are you thirsty, or do you just need to go to the washroom? Either way you should get that taken care of.

 

Still, I'm glad to hear that these miniatures can stand up to game play torture, even if they're glued together.

 

Anyone have any favoured* brands to use?

 

*edited a miss-autocorrect.

Edited by jaryth000
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flavored? no, but I favor zap-a-gap medium. If only because so far it's the only one where i've managed to get through most of a bottle without the glue sealing itself in.

Thanks for catching that, miss-autocorrect. Edited and fixed.

I was half thinking that sentence was going to end in "without gluing my fingers together".

Although ithat might explain a few things...

I know what you mean... Damn those markers did smell good.
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I use dollar store superglue, locally its 3 tubes for $2. It sticks bones together fine.

 

My observation of the existing Bones models leads me to believe they are glued together with superglue as well.

 

As to the chemistry, superglue most likely chemically bonds with the plastic as well as its usual drying process, this will create a much stronger bond than it gets with metal.

 

I haven't tried a plastic glue such as that used for model planes/cars/etc. (PVC). It should however work fine, but given cheap superglue works great I'd stick with that anyway.

 

For the new modellers, zap-a-gap is a slightly more gelatinous superglue, so its good for not just gluing but also filling small gaps at the same time, which is why its popular in the hobby. Truth is mould lines will be more of an issue than the gaps so I recommend saving money on the glue and using that to buy a set of cheap files that include some ultra fine grade ones (they look smooth rather than having obvious ridges).

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