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So after too many years of painting with my bottles just in boxes or standing around on my shelf of shame or in various drawers, I have finally at much cost of labor made paint organizers! BEHOLD! I made these to hold up to 204 Reaper dropper sized bottles (Army Painter and Vallejo fit too). They aren't the only ones I use by any means, but they're the bulk of my paint collection.
Wasn't the hardest thing in the world, but honestly I might try another method if I do this again. Right now the units are loose, probably going to lean them on the wall--eventually I would put supports on the backs so they can stand up at an angle (think picture frames). The insane super duper bonus feature is that I can put the two together and transport, or more importantly, SHAKE all my paints at once! The main purpose was organization though and being able to see each of my paints and, when I've organized and sorted them, see the spectrum at a glance rather than digging through a drawer as I have been doing. For the chromophiles out there I'll post pics when they're sorted and in their proper places.
To make them, I sized the bottles and figured out the hole size and spacing (bottles are about 1" diameter, I used a 1 1/8" hole saw (paddle bit blew out the back side) and drilled 102 holes (sandwiched the 3/4" boards together). It took hours as my drills' batteries kept dying and the saw lost its good edge by the 60th holes or so. I used the "holes" I drilled out as supports (had to chisel the middle supports in half) between the silver parts and the 5mm (yes, civilized world, in the US we know how to use proper/metric, and certain sizes of wood are specified in metric!) plywood base (black, not really visible). I carefully glued and screwed these together. Decided to use up some spray paint I had lying around. Enjoy and be inspired!
Hi!! my name is Katerina and I'm new to painting miniatures, I begun
with a miniature from NonSenseminiatures, the Barbarian, I buyed the
54mm because it's bigger and maybe easier to paint.
I asked some help to NonSense and he already made a base coat for me, I
would like to get some help for painting because I see too much
information and don't know were begin.
I already make painting but totally different
Also he gave for me a discount code Katerina10%, because he will sell my
Hi all, does anyone know where I could find a painting guide (PDF, video, anything really) to help me out with the Brother Lazarus Plague Doctor mini from the Dungeon Dwellers? Thanks in advance!
It has been years since I posted here but it has also been a while since I painted anything.
This is a step-by-step tutorial for painting the Daggertooth King Lizard made by AntiMatter Games for ShadowSea. The way this model is painted is in steps that require the paint to completely dry before going to the next step. It is a lot of washes and glazes that build up on top of each other and not wet blending.
Step 1 was to prime entirely in white. Then in Step 2 the underside was painted with a mixture of Liquitex Muted Gray and Matte Medium, about 50/50, then thinned with a touch of water. By touch, I mean dipping the tip of the brush into water after putting the color on the brush. The ink mix needs to be thin enough to flow but not so thick it collects in thick pools.
Step 3 was to paint the top side with thinned Yellow Oxide from Golden Fluid Acrylics, mixed with Buttermilk (Americana Brand). More water was added to glaze this color onto the edges of the Muted Gray underbelly.
Step 4 was a shading step, where the underside was given a wash of Black Ink + Phthalo Blue ink (20/80), mixed with Matte Medium (50/50 of mixed color to medium). Black can overpower the color, so only a small amount is needed. The top side was given a wash of Burnt Sienna ink + Matte Medium (50/50). The inside of the mouth was given a wash of brick red paint mixed with black paint and a bit of matter medium. The underside was done first and allowed to dry. When painting the top side, the model was flipped upside down so that the ink did not run down onto the underside.
Sep 5 is something a little different. This is a glaze of thinned white paint to reduce the “intensity” of shadows and even things out. More layers were applied to the tops of muscles and areas that are highlight zones and to also make the belly lighter overall. The white paint was basic craft paint from Americana brand.
Step 6 was a glaze step. Glazes of Burnt Sienna ink, thinned with about 50% water, were painted on the upper body and head and Burnt Umber ink was applied to the top of the back. The claws and spikes were given a wash of Burnt Umber ink + black Ink + Matter Medium (50/50 with color).
Step 7 was to give paint some stripes. This was pretty simple, using black paint + Turquoise ink, thinned with water so it was translucent (maybe 60/40 water/color).
Step 8 was the basic highlight stage. Thinned Buttermilk color was painted on the top edge of scales to simulate light reflection while thinned white was used to highlight the legs and underside. This was done with a very small brush, unlike all of the previous steps. The spikes on the back were painted with more Burnt Sienna ink mixed with Buttermilk to blend them, then thinned Buttermilk for the edge highlights. Some final highlights were with thinned white on the top of the spikes.
Step 9. Final Highlights and Base. The claws were painted like the spikes in Step 8 while the teeth were glazed with white to build up brightness, then painted in the edges with pure white. Small details, like eyeballs were done here also, using bright yellow and orange for the eyeball and back pupil with a small white dot for the reflection. The base had rocks painted in gray paint and the ground a light tan. This was allowed to dry, then a wash of a mix of Raw Sienna + Turquoise ink + Matte Medium was applied. The ground was washed with Raw Sienna ink + Matte Medium. Highlights were made with the tan paint on a bristly brush (an old drybrush brush with bristles pointing all around). The paint was put on the tips of the bristles and stippled around to add some random patterns. A bit of thinned white was used to add some edges to the rocks. Then the while model was given a coat of Dullcote, which ended up being a bit glossy, but that’s how it goes sometimes.
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