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By OneBoot
I received a commission to paint some lovely porcelain Santa figures by a friend of mine, and I'm not sure what primer to use, or whether I need to use primer at all.
Does anyone have experience with this? Is a spray primer likely to cause damage? I'd use brush-on, but given that each figure is 10 inches tall, that's a bit more hand-priming than I want to do!
Here's one of them as an example (there are 7 in total):
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Huzzah!
--OneBoot :D
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By nakos
In the Reaper Live videos, it's been mentioned that most rattle primers are ok to use. But no one that I've seen has mentioned their results of spray priming their bones black, so I thought that I would post my results here. I hope that others will post theirs as well.
Cleaning and prepping mold lines on bones black is very different than regular bones. I would compare it to other gaming companies hard plastic while still having a little bit more flexibility.
So far I've used the following primers, I'll add to this list as I use new ones:
Krylon Colormaster White primer- quick drying time with light spraying, no stickiness, no granular texture associated with light dusting. The white stayed relatively white unlike on other plastic models.
Rustoleum 2X Paint+Primer Satin Poppy Red- Smooth coverage, no texturing. However, after 24hrs is still slightly tacky to the touch. In places where I've scrapped mold lines away the plastic underneath is not tacky. I'll give it a few more days to cure and then I'll try stripping it and see how that goes. The tackiness maybe due to the satin primer rather than the more commonly used flat primer. ETU: 60 hrs and no change in the tackiness so I used isopropyl to strip it with no issues.
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By Ducknuck84
I know that Bones do not take spray primer without staying sticky but have read that the vallejo brush on primer works well. The question is that if you put the bush on primer first can you add a spray one primer after without the mini staying sticky? I know that the vallejo's can be airbrushed on but because i don't have a dedicated painting area its kind of a pain to drag out the airbrush to try out two tone priming.
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By LarsM
This is my first go at using chipping medium, and in all an experiment with weathering.
Just wanted to share my experiment with everyone, do not really consider this as a tutorial as I did not know what I was doing. :o)
1. A piece of a blister pack plastic, prime black, and painted a mix of Black Brown and Dry Rust.
2. Wet blending with following colors in random pattern; Black Brown, Wet Mud, Explosion Orange.
3. Wash with mix of Flesh Wash and Dark Red.
4. Stipling and a bit of wet blending with Wet Mud and Explosion Orange.
5. Wash with mix of Flesh Wash and Wet Mud.
6. Adding Chipping medium to the top and water and salt to the bottom.
The idea with the salt is that it can be peeled of later to leave 'paint chips'. But I only seen it achived with an airbrush, so wanted to try it with brush.
7. Green paint, couple of layers. Way most of the salt fell off, leaving only the very small pieces, they do give a good structure of rust-bubling paint though.
8. Water to start the chipping. I ned a bit more patience, so the first chips went too deep and removed some of the brown paint too. And to get the chipping look good seems to need some practice..
I used a tooth brush and a tooth pick to scratch the green paint off.
9. 'Repaired' some places with stipling of Wet Mud and Explosion Orange and a wash of Dry Rust.
10. Added streaks with Strong Tone and Dry Rust. And made the rust patches darker with Dry Rust.
Those streaks really breathed life into the decay.
Done!
Came out allright, but the streaks seems to be making a big difference.im
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By Sophie was taken
I’ve got some of both these products, but I’m not sure exactly how they’re supposed to be used.
I’ve tried the primer a few times, but compared to spray primer it’s very liquidy (not a surprise, since it’s a liquid). The issue is I don’t know if it is being properly applied or just running off into the cracks. It doesn’t turn the metal white, but I don’t even know if that is supposed to happen or not. Am I using it correctly?
As for the brush-on sealer, what is it for and what does it do? I’m assuming it goes on at the end, and if that means I don’t need to buy yet another aerosol product, that would be swell.
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