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Wren

Bones: Frequently Asked Questions - Unofficial!

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I can verify that Liquitex gloss stays tacky, but Liquitex matte does not.

I have always found Liquitex Gloss Medium a little unacceptably sticky, even on paintings.

 

Golden has many different gloss mediums, some of which also dry sticky, but I have found Golden's Self-Leveling Clear Gel Medium to dry pretty well on Bones.

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Hey all!

I just got DDS2 the other day, and it will be my first experience with bones, so I am a bit nervous... I have been reading all the tips and tricks everyone has posted with great interest and thanks!

 

Now I use P3 Primer on everything I paint, and as I didn't see it listed, I did my own test.

I sprayed the Bottom of a base to see what, if any results I would get.

 

Now it seems to me that it dried well, certainly no longer than any other mini I have used it on. It is not tacky at all.

No sign that it ate into the plastic at all, no strange fumes, etc.

I dragged my thumb across the dry base, and after 30 seconds or so, the "Reaper Miniatures" text showed up quite clearly.

The base isn't flexible so I can't comment about durability...

 

After I start on the terrain parts of the kit, I will post my results in WIP.

 

George

 

Edit! (14 August 2015)

The bottom of that base got tacky! :zombie:

 

I picked up the mini to show my wife, as she was looking at the DDS 2 terrain, and getting an explanation about why the bottom was painted, she said, UM-this is tacky. I checked and she was correct! It has been very humid here lately, but it was in a room that gets some AC, so I would do your own test before using P3 Black Primer!

 

George

Edited by knarthex
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Thought I had a new primer for Bones but alas it failed the test. Adherto by Black Gold (House of Kolor). It's a clear primer made for Lexan R/C bodies. Since the paint for those needs to be flexible to stay on the bodies, thought it'd be perfect!. Alas it fails the stickiness test.

 

(see below)

 

EDIT:

 

Re-checked the mini this afternoon & it doesn't have the stickiness like it did the day I sprayed it. I'll throw a couple coats of paints on it & see later today & report back. Also I sprayed anther Bones mini this morning with Rustoleum Plastic primer white. So far so good. I'll give a report on that one as well.

 

Ok I've had some time with the minis I primed with Adherto & Rustoleum Plastic Primer white. First off when I primed the Bone with Adherto is was really sticky, even to a point I was taking finger & thumb & was tacky touching the blade of the mini just to see if this stickiness would go away. Well this morning that stickiness had gone totally away!

 

As far as the Rustoleum goes, there was a little tackiness but nothing I was concerned about. Granted I'm use to primer going on plastic & then almost instantly drying. I paint car models with either Tamiya primers or Dupicolor brand. I still left that one on my table as I primed & basecoated some model parts today. It was outside most of the day.

 

Paints:

I decided to test paint the mini today. What I used were the following brands with 1 drop of water each.

 

Reaper Viper Green

 

Vallejo Model Color Orange

 

Warpaint Dark Tone (more of a wash then a actual paint)

 

Now I decided not to use one of my good brushes for this + April 2015 was the last time I put paint on a mini so of course I didn't paint like I was in competition. What I did focus on were areas I knew the primer had hit like the base (it's a brocoli style base). The head area or in this case, the lack of a head area. Blades as those are large area. Also I decided to touch a couple areas that thought might offer some primered details like hands or intricate details.

 

Rustoleum Plastic Primer (the one on the craft paint bottle)

 

detail shot

 

Base Shot

 

Adherto Clear primer

 

Base (top) Shot

 

Anther Base (orange) Shot

 

 

Again, not as good as Wren excellent examples but something I wanted to do. Plus it's nice to put a brush with paint on a mini. The minis in question gladly sacrificed their heads for anther project so why they missing those.

 

After painting, I will say both Adherto & Rustoleum Plastic Primer White make great spray primers for Bones minis!!

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Can I ask what sort of time frame you had between spraying and no-longer-sticky?

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Can I ask what sort of time frame you had between spraying and no-longer-sticky?

 

I'd say a day. I was outside yesterday spraying around 930 am as I was killing time till 1030 am. I sprayed the goblin first before diving into putting the model parts on my clip & skewer system I have set up.

 

Today I primed those parts around a little before 10 am. I primed the other goblin first & then it was around 300 to 340 when I painted the colors on.

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So, I've been a Reaper fan for years. One of my favorite things about Reaper is that they are made not only in the United States, but Just down the road in TX (I'm in Southern OK).

Just recently I started working with the Bones line, and frankly I like them a lot. My only concern is, though contrary to the FAQ thread about the Process being moved to USA, I've never once received a Bones Miniature, that does not say "Made in China".

That being said, I still love the product, I just prefer local produce.

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5 hours ago, HereticKage said:

So, I've been a Reaper fan for years. One of my favorite things about Reaper is that they are made not only in the United States, but Just down the road in TX (I'm in Southern OK).

Just recently I started working with the Bones line, and frankly I like them a lot. My only concern is, though contrary to the FAQ thread about the Process being moved to USA, I've never once received a Bones Miniature, that does not say "Made in China".

That being said, I still love the product, I just prefer local produce.

From the FAQ

Quote

 

Are Bones made in China or the United States?

 

All Bones figures made prior to March 2013 were produced in China. In March 2013, Reaper installed the machine necessary to produce Bones in its factory in Texas, and began the process of transferring production in-house.

 

 

Mostly at the moment I believe that their machine (named Thomas) is mostly being used to make bases, but that some minis were being transferred over to the US for production, but that demand is so high that they don't have the production capacity to bring more over right now. 

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I bought a Nethyrmaul the Undying mini a few years ago and after painting, discovered that if the two left legs are set in their spots on the base, the back right leg is almost a full inch above its spot.

I didn't think much of it at first because the plastic was strong enough to hold the dragon mostly upright but after a few years on the shelf he's leaned further and further to the right and now the front leg has a very noticeable curve.  I'm wondering what would be the best way to build up the back of the base and stop the lean.  Thanks.

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SarahH - I don't have a lot of experience with the large Bones, or with doing a lot of basing and building. I think you might get more eyes on your question and thus more suggestions if you repost it as a separate topic in this subforum.

 

One option would be to build up the back with two part putty. Greenstuff is the one most people know, but I find Milliput and Apoxie Sculp to be easier to use, particularly for basing projects. You could probably build an internal structure with cheaper materials (styrene sheets, maybe even cork) and then surround that with putty that you can texture to look like rock or something else that might fit on the base.

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