Jump to content

Bones: Preparation (Glues, Putties, Mould Lines, Etc.)


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan

Sounds like it will close cuts from the hobby knife quite readily too!

This right here.

Posted Images

Here in the UK, Hobby Craft has a reasonable selection of tools in the model section. Today I bought a Draper hobby knife and a set of 5 diamond coated needle files. In the art section they have both cheap and medium priced brushes (but not W&N series 7) also a range of palettes and cutting mats although I bought my cutting mat a Ryman as it was cheaper. Also from Ryman I got Super Glue and Blu Tack.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW, I've used Craftics #33 "Clear-Thickened Acrylic Cement" to glue Legendary Encounters (and other plastic figures) to acrylic and wooden bases. I can't separate the figures from the bases by just using my hands.

 

This may seem weird and exotic, but this is the glue recommended by Litko for assembly of their acrylic counters. Some folks here might have some on-hand.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

This is a really good idea that I hadn't thought of. I actually just finished a jelly jar yesterday whose lid might be perfect for one of the giants.

Link to post
Share on other sites

One word of warning regarding what you use to hold onto Bones when dipping in boiling water: don't squeeze to hard, or you will leave a lasting impression. I use a set of surgical forcepts and on one of the kobolds I left the imprint of the clamp on the base.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I just use a $2 sieve from the kitchen store. One with hooks on the end so you can suspend it over the pot without it touching the base.

 

This achieves three things:

  • Removing the Bones from the water is a snap - you just lift the sieve out of the water
  • You can easily heat and reform miniatures in batches. I did about 5-6 at a time with this method.
  • You also keep the Bones off the base of the pot which eliminates any possiblity of them being in contact with hot metal & potentially melting
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for these threads!

My "practice bones" arrived today, and I figured I'd start with Gary the Gargoyle, or whatever the heck his name is. I grabbed two of those big wide coffee mugs (the ones that will hold a can of soup) filled 'em both with water, and stuck one in the microwave. While that was running, I threw a couple of ice cubes in the other one, then lined up my other minis so they could see what would happen to them if they didn't "play ball". A lot of people are saying the mins are popping back to original just from the hot water. I didn't experience that. but once I dipped it in the ice water...boom! It was like a freaking magic trick! I had to resist the urge to do it a couple of more times, jut to watch it happen!

Gary is looking super fierce now with his spread wings, and ready for some paint!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Artists

Addendum on methods for removing mould lines:

 

I had read Loim's post on sanding sticks while doing the research for these articles, but figured emory boards and the other sandpaper products I had were close enough for testing. He was kind enough to give some to me and a few other of the artists to try out during ReaperCon. They work really well on Bones. We raided the Denton local Hobby Town and cleared them out. I think I've seen the same product on sale at Hobby Town, but will need to check again. Both the blue (medium) and white (fine) work very well.

 

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/medium-plastic-sanding-needles-852467/

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By MoonglowMinis
      Here's a simple one for you.  Painted the Great Worm as a Purple Worm to the surprise of no one.


       
      More Photos Below the Spoiler:
       
    • By MoonglowMinis
      Couldn't find a better thread to post this in.  Has anyone else ever had mold grow on their minis?
       
      I have a set of bones that have been sitting around for about two year. They were super glued to a reaper base. Baking soda and super glue were used to blend the integrated base into the round base. There's also a layer of cheap craft paint as primer.
       
      These guys have been sitting on my painting table in a former sun-room for about two years. 
       
      I noticed the bases had yellowed a bit, which I've begun to notice on some of my other older bases using baking soda as a basing material. But when I checked on them I noticed small fuzzy looking orange tufts. 
       
      I can only assume this is mold.
       
      The only things I could think of to cause this are the baking soda or the water used to clean my brush before priming. 
       
      Has anyone else seen this?
       
       

    • By MoonglowMinis
      Hello again!  I'm back with an assortment of Bones that are serving as my Rangers of Shadow Deep solo party.  Decided I wanted a classic fantasy look, but didn't want to fall into the cliched green cloak look.  With that stipulation, I settled on a more autumnal color palette, and tried to keep this aesthetic across the entire party, without anyone looking like they were wearing matching uniforms.  I'm pretty pleased with the results and I tried to push myself with each mini.  What do you think?

       
      More Photos and Thoughts Beneath the Spoiler:
       
      I have only played a few scenarios of Rangers of Shadow Deep, and I'm honestly not sold on the whole solo-game thing.  But if the game has done anything for me, it has given me motivation to paint more and has given purpose to some of the things I already have painted.  I already ordered some extra gnolls and ghouls to meet the required numbers and will likely be showing off some monsters soon.
       
      Which character do you like best?
       
      What games have motivated you to paint those piles of shame?
       
      Feel free to share your own photos!
    • By Cicciopiu
      Hello Forum friends, I'm being quite productive lately  Gonna show you the most recent mini I painted: Small world Sophie.
      Ok, I have to say I'm in love with this chibi minis, I'm gonna buy lot more cause I find them so funny to paint!
      About the paint job, well, anytime I manage to paint Sophie, my color choice for her wings is always Violet (or purple if you prefer) and so why do not make my life easy and go for a complementary palette? So, purple and yellow. Easy peasy...
      Anyway, this is the result, I'm quite happy of her, I hope you'll like her too.
      As always every C&C is more than welcome :)



      Hi-res Pic 1
      Hi-res Pic 2
    • By golldan
      Worked on some critters. The leeches were painted Walnut Brown and highlighted in medium grey. Then I went over them with Turbo Dork - 3D Glasses. Then wash of Nuln Oil Glossy. Ended up with the slimy/glossy look I was trying for.
       

       

       
       

      Dire Crab, I was inspired by the color scheme that many have posted here, which i think they were modeling a Blue Crab which seems to be more green with many interesting colors in it. I painted the whole thing Ivory, and then glazed inks and washes up and tried to be careful on where I laid the wash/ink down. Some were just one coat, like Reikland Fleshshade for the edges of shell and claws. Also uded Army Painter green ink and Nuln Oil (for mix with green for darkest part on top of shell) for shell/legs/claws, Reaper Sepia wash for in-between colors and the underside. Only paint I used was bit of black at tips of claws, and Tropical blue watered down to thickish wash for blue on claws/legs.
       

       

       

  • Who's Online   26 Members, 2 Anonymous, 41 Guests (See full list)


×
×
  • Create New...