Jump to content

Wren

Bones: Preparation (Glues, Putties, Mould Lines, Etc.)

Recommended Posts

I would like to add that January 6 2017 we are releasing Bones Super Glue. Works on Metal and Plastic (Bones) and, because it's cyanoacrylate super glue, works on other things too, just like any super glue you'd buy would.

 

The cap includes a pin to prevent/reduce clogging at the aperture, and it's a nice large .7 oz (20g) bottle so it'll work on hundreds of models.

 

It has a near-instant cure on Bones material, slightly longer for metal models, and (I learned the hard way) adheres models to skin painfully easily.

Sounds like it will close cuts from the hobby knife quite readily too!

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/3/2013 at 2:16 PM, werehawk said:

I found filing/ sanding mould lines much easier if the figures are dipped in ice water put in freezer for a few minutes. This makes the figures less rubbery and more like traditional resin cast figures. Sanding and filing much more like what I was used to doing.

 

Appreciate the post.  I have much trouble with shaving/sanding Bones mold lines ... I get a sort of clumpy, rubble-like finish.  Because they are so soft.  I'll try this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I'm new to the Bones figures and it has been 15 years or so since I last painted miniatures.

A question about the glue.

I have 3 glues at the moment

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

Revell glue

Super glue, that is a small basic one from a supermarket.

 

Should I buy a new kind of superglue?

Was hoping the Tamiya one would be the great all in one thing :down:

Edited by Raistling

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI it's against forum rules to post links to another commercial site, unless my memory banks are shorting out again.

You can mention other companies things and give enough info that someone could google it themselves though.

The Tamiya and Revell glues look like a type of plastic model cement. I don't think those will work on Bones.

 

EDIT: There used to be a link towards the bottom of each page to the forum rules. but I don't see it now.

Edited by Brother Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have removed the links so they only show names.

 

47 minutes ago, Brother Jim said:

The Tamiya and Revell glues look like a type of plastic model cement. I don't think those will work on Bones.

 

Thank you for the help with the glue and guidance on the rules :winkthumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any sort of superglue should work.

 

I actually tried rubber cement ::P: and it was fine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well broccoli now I'm just confused :D

 

What would be a good way to test glues?

I'm thinking that just trying to glue 2 sprues together wouldn't be a very good indication of how a real mini would take the glue?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using superglues like Bison, Greenstuffworld, Pattex.

All work fine so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Raistling said:

So I'm new to the Bones figures and it has been 15 years or so since I last painted miniatures.

A question about the glue.

I have 3 glues at the moment

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

Revell glue

Super glue, that is a small basic one from a supermarket.

 

Should I buy a new kind of superglue?

Was hoping the Tamiya one would be the great all in one thing :down:

 

The Tamiya and Revell glues are solvents formulated for use on polystyrene. These don't work well on PVC.

 

You might be able to use a PVC cement, but I don't know anyone who has tried it. Though from looking at the SDS, PVC cement looks to be mostly a mix of MEK and acetone, so not that different from many modeling cements.

 

Note that all of these are pretty toxic, so be aware of the necessary safety precautions and be smart.

 

Super glue is a cyanoacrylate, sometimes with a thickening agent of some sort. There's not much difference between brands, IME. Super glue works great on Bones as long as the contact surface is well matched. If you have big gaps at the contact points (Mossbeard, I'm looking at you), you might need to use something else. (I used JB Kwik, which is a 5 minute epoxy.)

 

Super glue seems to be less toxic than any of the plastic cements above, but do the research and take the necessary precautions.

 

24 minutes ago, Raistling said:

Well broccoli now I'm just confused :D

 

What would be a good way to test glues?

I'm thinking that just trying to glue 2 sprues together wouldn't be a very good indication of how a real mini would take the glue?

 

Other than the geometry of the contact points, gluing sprues together is a very good indicator of how a real mini would take the glue. The sprue is the exact same formulation as the plastic it's attached to. If it works on the sprue, it should work exactly as well on the mini. (Again, if there's a good contact surface.)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/31/2014 at 10:13 PM, Wren said:

... it'll either drift back to original placement over time, or bounce back next time it gets at all warm. ...

 

Now somebody tells me.  Not that Bones uses a memory plastic.  But that it cannot be unmemorized.

 

I have experience in shaping harder plastic with the boiling water and reshaping technique.  It works pretty well.  But my attempts with Bones was completely ineffectual.  Which is why I gave up on Bones.

 

Now I understand why resculpting Bone is such a persistent topic.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, Highlander said:

Now somebody tells me.  Not that Bones uses a memory plastic.  But that it cannot be unmemorized.

 

I've had better luck with permanent changes in posing when I use a basic annealing technique with the plastic.

 

Short version: Don't shock cool the mini, but rather heat, reshape, then slowly cool the plastic to allow the crystal structure time to realign.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

I've had better luck with permanent changes in posing when I use a basic annealing technique with the plastic.

 

Short version: Don't shock cool the mini, but rather heat, reshape, then slowly cool the plastic to allow the crystal structure time to realign.

This right here.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×