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Wren

Bones: The First Coat is the Difference

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Discovered this thread too late and I've just primed a big dragon, cause I was looking to get a zenithal priming... 

Now is tacky after a week from priming... 

Can I still paint it, or its better to strip it? 

And in case, what I can use to strip it? (can't find simple green here where I live and Amazon is selling it at 25$ that is crazy).

Thank you in advance

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1 hour ago, Cicciopiu said:

Discovered this thread too late and I've just primed a big dragon, cause I was looking to get a zenithal priming... 

Now is tacky after a week from priming... 

Can I still paint it, or its better to strip it? 

And in case, what I can use to strip it? (can't find simple green here where I live and Amazon is selling it at 25$ that is crazy).

Thank you in advance

 

Don't just paint over the tacky primer; the tackiness tends to come through to the surface. You should strip the primer.

 

For stripping, if you don't have access to Simple Green or Purple Power (which seem to be very similar, and from US-based companies), I'd look first for a pine-oil based cleaner. The US brand I've used is "Pinesol".

 

For a deeper discussion of stripping minis, check out this thread:

 

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/25918-the-stripping-materials-compendium/

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Thank you a lot, Doug, ATM i'm trying using the rubbing alcohol, but is an hard work :wacko: 

I'm rubbing it using a toothbrush, a very fine scourer and dish sponge, but it seems that will take a century to strip the damn primers away! :upside:

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11 minutes ago, Cicciopiu said:

Thank you a lot, Doug, ATM i'm trying using the rubbing alcohol, but is an hard work :wacko: 

I'm rubbing it using a toothbrush, a very fine scourer and dish sponge, but it seems that will take a century to strip the damn primers away! :upside:

 

Around here, isopropyl alcohol is fairly inexpensive. If that's true for you, you might try immersing the figure in 90+% isopropyl for a day or so, then hitting it with a toothbrush.

 

IME, this will also tend to reduce the amount of plasticizer in the model and make it a bit less floppy.

 

Good luck.

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On 10/15/2018 at 8:01 AM, Cicciopiu said:

Discovered this thread too late and I've just primed a big dragon, cause I was looking to get a zenithal priming... 

Now is tacky after a week from priming... 

Can I still paint it, or its better to strip it? 

And in case, what I can use to strip it? (can't find simple green here where I live and Amazon is selling it at 25$ that is crazy).

Thank you in advance

 

What did you prime with?

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No brand Plastic Primers... I live in the middle of the ocean, no hobbies shops here aaaand can't order aerosol cause some dumb rule forbid to send spray cans by airmail...

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Bringing the subject up again.

Used Armory Black Primer,  minis tacky as tape.

Used Ironlak Sugar Professional Artist Acrylic Spray, Dark Grey with no problem.

No issues with flexing or bending the parts. Paint stayed on with no issues, no flaking no removal from the parts.

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An issue i had with tacky primer was when trying to strip it instead of rubbing 

Or brushing off the mini it seemed to run around.  One thing that seems to work is ising my spray on acryllic sealer which seems to harden and dry the primer.

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On 4/10/2013 at 4:22 PM, Wren said:

Recommended aerosol spray primers and paints:

Army Painter white and coloured primers

Is this phrased this way for a reason? Does Army Painter black primer not work? Also, would using a varnish before applying primer change anything? I want to be able to prime my minis if I'm going to add green stuff or anything else to them, right?

Edited by dentalfricative

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2 hours ago, dentalfricative said:

Is this phrased this way for a reason? Does Army Painter black primer not work? Also, would using a varnish before applying primer change anything? I want to be able to prime my minis if I'm going to add green stuff or anything else to them, right?

 

Brush on primer should always be fine, but I have heard horror stories from aerosol sealers as well as primer.  I don't think that a layer of varnish will guarantee that a spray primer won't become tacky.  

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2 hours ago, dentalfricative said:

Is this phrased this way for a reason? Does Army Painter black primer not work? Also, would using a varnish before applying primer change anything? I want to be able to prime my minis if I'm going to add green stuff or anything else to them, right?

 

Army Painter spray primers have so far shown the best results, ie not becoming a sticky tacky mess. Every other brand of spray primer has had various results most of which are sticky tacky messes. This only applies to regular bones. Bones Black can be spray painted with any aerosol spray primer. 

As for the specific wording, it may be that Wren doesn't use or didn't test their black primers. 

 

As for varnish, it depends on how it's applied. The reason that aerosol primers make regular bones sticky is the propellant used, which is common across all aerosol spray cans. That propellant reacts with some of the plasticizers in the regular bones that prevents the paint from curing. Army Painter's spray primers have to be using a different type of propellant, possibly because they wanted to avoid plastic melting chemicals as plastic minis were becoming quite good when it was developed. 

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