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Bones: The First Coat is the Difference


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3 hours ago, SamuraiJack said:

Which brand of oil paint?


Royal Talens Van Gogh

 

32 minutes ago, WhiteWulfe said:

And was it student or studio grade? 


Student

Also the white I use is Abteilung: this is specifically made for miniature and models.

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55 minutes ago, Cicciopiu said:


Royal Talens Van Gogh
 

 

I have one tube of emerald green by Van Gogh, sent to me by accident by a close friend. I do not glaze or paint in thin layers… The Van Gogh emerald seems to have a very nice pigment load. I also like the Rembrandt earth colors, burnt sienna and yellow orche. They are easy to paint with alla prima (soft) and have a higher pigment load than the student grades (specifically: winton, classico and georgian). Truly nice oil paint if I dare say.

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Ok, after two weeks, it is almost dry, but some spots are still wet... So, I'm using the same oils on other materials like resin and metal and I had no problem at all, so I guess the problem is Bones. Maybe it is just my experience, if someone else wanna try it... Im gonna try it on another mini for double check...

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56 minutes ago, Baphomet69 said:

Was that primed or on raw Bones?
Which version, Mk. 1 Bonesium, Black?

pre-washed, I assume?


Both on primed (Vallejo applied with airbrush) and unprimed;
Bonesium (the withe Bones);
what do you mean pre-washed?

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On 1/15/2021 at 3:04 AM, Cicciopiu said:

If someone is interested, after a week it's still wet...

 

I used to paint with oil paints on canvas. And yup, drying time could be lengthy. Why would it be shorter on a material that is plastic?

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Yeah :) the figure as been washed :)
 

8 hours ago, TGP said:

 

I used to paint with oil paints on canvas. And yup, drying time could be lengthy. Why would it be shorter on a material that is plastic?


Yes, you are right, probably is cause it is plastic; I use oil on canvas too and they dry in maximum a week, more often a couple of days (I mean, dried to the touch).
We have to keep in mind than we are using a very little amount of paint for minis, way less than we can use on canvas, besides you wont use linseed oil but white spirit to dilute the paints.
Also, I used a cardboard to absorb the surplus of oil from the paints before starting to paint the figure.

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On 12/30/2020 at 7:34 AM, Staffan said:

 

It would be really awesome if Reaper could whip up some form of guaranteed Bones-friendly spray-on primer. At the moment, all we have is basically unconfirmed lore - "I heard this lady tried that spray and it worked fine", and unfortunately not very much in the way of actual knowledge.

 

I suspect this is highly unlikely to occur, for a few different reasons. Most of those are manufacturing. Reaper makes their paint in house, but the equipment and set up to make bottled paint vs canned spray primer is totally different. Given that spray paint is under pressure and uses chemicals, there's probably a whole other set of safety issues and whatnot as well as equipment. It would be a very limited product range going into market that has lots of options. There's a lot more strikes against it than for it happening.

They could get an out of house factory to make something that they label. That's what happens with their paint brushes. They also briefly sold Reaper branded superglue made out of house. Which due to differing regulations for those kinds of chemical products turned into a whole hassle to ship internationally, and they decided it was not a good market for them. I don't know for sure, but I suspect spray primers would be subject to those kinds of regulations rather than the bottle paint ones. So would be difficult to sell internationally, further decreasing the appeal for Reaper to jump into this market. (I believe you can now only get Testors Dullcote in the US cause Testors didn't want to deal with the issues of getting it into Europe. And that's an established brand that deals with those kinds of products and shipping issues regularly, not a new to that market company like Reaper.)

 

The last issue is that I don't know if such a beast exists. The issue with spray primers is the propellant, and the issue is exacerbated by various climatic conditions. So you can't just test it in Texas and call it good. That's no different than the dozens of posts in this thread with one person saying "I used primer X, worked great" and another saying "I used primer X, it's still sticky". The second person probably sprayed in wetter, or warmer or some other different climatic condition than the first. Are there propellants that aren't subject to this issue? I have no idea. But researching, developing, and testing for one is far out of Reaper's area of expertise and business model.

 

There IS a spray alternative - anything you can use with a brush shot through an airbrush. Reaper even sells those now. There are also super cheap options that are like $20 and you can buy canned air to use with them rather than an expensive compressor. I get why people don't love the answer, I hesitated for many years to use an airbrush. But I think it's as close to Reaper offering a spray primer option as we're going to get.

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A thought -- One thing I run into constantly with Bonesium is that it's hard to tell the difference between white plastic and white primer. I know Reaper makes a couple of alternate-color primers (grey and black IIRC) but perhaps a wider range of these could help folks out, using the primer as a first basecoat as has been suggested by some companies. No need to make it spray (except airbrushable, of course), but just something in a regular bottle that we can slap on with a brush. Sixish-nineish colors, maybe (light/dark blue, light/dark green, light/dark brown, red, yellow, purple?)

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@ecs05norway if you are using the brush on it is easy to add a drop of paint to your palette and mix it with the primer. It helps you see what you have primed and it does not affect the primer coat. 

 

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