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Well, if you're asking if you can undercoate / basecoat then wash, absolutely. Once the first layer of paint(s) covers the plastic, you can paint it like any miniature. Personally, I would wash with Quickshade Strong (brown) Tone Ink, but you can make up your own wash from paints or whatnot.

 

OK, so for a "wash" one can use special inks or special pre-made "washes", but is also OK just to mix up regular reaper paint with a bit of extra water?  (Just bought a basic set of reaper paints, was hoping to avoid having to buy a set of washes/inks as well..)

 

 

  Once you've base coated them you can do a wash no problem at all.  If you want to do one before the base coat, I've had some success with a wash made not from water but with arylic medium (aka Reaper Brush-on Sealer, amongst other things...).

 

  Oh!  Yes, you can create a wash from just about any of the Reaper paints - I typically do a wash of Walnut Brown for a lot of stuff, but I've also used LED Blue, Clear Yellow, Clear Red, Clear Blue, Clear Green, and Clear Magenta recently.

 

 

I've found that just of touch of soap in the water helps to cut down on the water tension allowing the watery paint to seek the lowest points (cracks and creases) rather than the flat surfaces.

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The problem with soap in paint is that it can make it more water-soluble later.

 

I haven't tried it yet, but I suspect a dab of rubbing alcohol may have a similar effect without causing solubility trouble down the line.

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The problem with soap in paint is that it can make it more water-soluble later.

 

I haven't tried it yet, but I suspect a dab of rubbing alcohol may have a similar effect without causing solubility trouble down the line.

You're right. The alcohol will evaporate almost completely out of the mixture while the paint cures. I've never had a problem cutting my paints with isopropyl alcohol. It also cleans up the white residue from cyanoacrylates pretty well.
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I'd like to add that today I painted 20 gnolls and bugbears from my bones 2 pack, using the Badger Stynylrez primer. I used my airbrush for this, but the bottle does say it can be brushed or sponged onto surfaces. With the airbrush, it covered great, drying in about 5 minutes and losing no detail.

 

I compared this to another mini I had primed by brushing on Reaper's blue liner. The liner has been on the figure for a week, the Stynylrez has been drying for about 10 hours. Scratching both of the bases with my fingernail, the Badger stuff seems to adhere better than the liner. I will definitely say that if you have an airbrush, this stuff is awesome.

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I'm excited to report that Ace 12oz Premium Enamel Spray Primer works very well with the Bones miniatures with no tackiness. It's available in White, Dark Grey, and Read Oxide for about $4 a can at Ace Hardware Stores.

Edited by Rintor
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I'm excited to report that Ace 12oz Premium Enamel Spray Primer works very well with the Bones miniatures with no tackiness. It's available in White, Dark Grey, and Read Oxide for about $4 a can at Ace Hardware Stores.

Edited: Thanks for info!

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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I'm excited to report that Ace 12oz Premium Enamel Spray Primer works very well with the Bones miniatures with no tackiness. It's available in White, Dark Grey, and Read Oxide for about $4 a can at Ace Hardware Stores.

 

 

You'll want to remove your commerce link. Just give enough information (which you have) to allow people to look it up. Commerce links are prohibited on the forum and a mod will bat your post for it.

 

My bad. Thanks. 

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I am happy to report that Folk Art Multi-Surface Satin Acrylic paint (in Licorice color) works wonderfully for priming Bones.  It's thin enough to go on smoothly in a single coat, straight out of the bottle.  Once dry, it is impressively durable and entirely non-tacky.

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Washed

 

Primed with Walmart flat black, hit at 45 with Krylon white primer.

 

Fully dried. Not sticky. 

 

Lessons learned.

 

Reaper bones miniatures have no issue with spray primers as long as you clean them. 

 

Cheap Walmart primer works just as well as more expensive primers. Will use again. 

 

 

pic2512114_md.jpg

 

*Flash makes this guy look a lot whiter then he is. ;)

Edited by Chargeit
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That's actually good to know. I'm liking the spray primer, it seems faster and easier to use.

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The problem with soap in paint is that it can make it more water-soluble later.

I haven't tried it yet, but I suspect a dab of rubbing alcohol may have a similar effect without causing solubility trouble down the line.

I can attest to the soap! I washed a model and painted it, then had the layer of paint later wash right off because I didn't rinse the soap off well enough. Not just peel off because of poor adhesion, but literally dissolve away.

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I am happy to report that Folk Art Multi-Surface Satin Acrylic paint (in Licorice color) works wonderfully for priming Bones.  It's thin enough to go on smoothly in a single coat, straight out of the bottle.  Once dry, it is impressively durable and entirely non-tacky.

Seconded. It is my favorite Bones primer.

 

I use the Medium Gray, thinned with water until it flows and run through an airbrush. The first few passes are very thin misting coats a few minutes apart to keep it from beading up. It's a bit transparent, but doesn't have to cover the white completely.

 

I let it dry until it is slightly tacky (the same day), then paint my base coat colors over it. When it cures completely, it's a bullet-proof bond between the plastic and the paint.

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That's actually good to know. I'm liking the spray primer, it seems faster and easier to use.

 

Spray priming is the way to go assuming you have a good spot for it.

 

I usually do large groups when I do it (15 + miniatures).

 

I cut up 8" strips of cardboard. I set up groups of 3 on the strips spaced as so...

 

*Not bones miniatures. 

 

pic2512563_md.jpg

 

*Once again, flash does odd things to my pictures... Need to make a photo box. 

 

For miniatures that require special attention (heroes, larger monsters, specials, metal), I spray prime individually on pill bottles. 

 

 

Make sure to wash those bones. Heck, any miniature for that matter. 

Edited by Chargeit
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Apologies for the OT question, but how big are those DDM Bugbears compared to the bones Bugbears?

 

Thanks.

I'm not sure off hand. I don't have reaper Bugbears. I'd assume the D&D ones would be larger. 

 

However, bones and D&D mini's work out fine. The D&D ones tend to be a little larger, but, they all scale up well enough. I think larger models might start becoming a issue though. For instance the D&D ogre would look like it's 10' vs the Reaper looking 8'. 

 

 

Here are some shots comparing various miniatures. They work out well together, but, there is a small size difference. 

 

 

pic2512696_md.jpg

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