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So it took me chasing my friend down and threatening to beat her with a folding chair @ our friendly local game store before I could get this video blue toothed to my phone But never the less Here it is folks.

 

Proof of how easy it is to Fix your Bent Bones.

 



Now keep in mind if you do this and burn yourself well... just keep in mind that I will laugh at you for being silly (I got over conifdent and did one by hand after this and accidentally dipped the tip of my finger so Don't use your hands) :blink:
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That's an understandable precaution to take, Simon. You may experience some rewarping with that, but repeated hot tapwater treatments might make it stick if you're looking for a safer route. If possible, I actually recommend water even hotter than pocketcthulhu had in the video - I use nothing less than a full rolling boil (with tongs). In my personal experience, that made the change stick the best.

 

But there's probably several ways to go about it if you're wanting to be real safe. The "memory" Bones has isn't of how it comes out of the package, but its original form - they just get warped along the way. The Bugbear's club is perpetually bent, and all the same way from the ones I've had, because it looks like that's how he fits into the blister. Getting him to remember what it was like to be born in the mold is what heat treatment is for - and he will remember. But for lower heat than full boiling it might take a couple of treatments to fully correct it and make it stick permanently depending on how long he's been warped into his "from-package" state.

 

He must unlearn what he has learned.

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Most of my experience has been with the WoTC D&D plastics, and a bit with the Paizo/Wizkids Pathfinder ones, they may behave a bit differently from Bones, but generally AFAICT rewarping seems to mostly happen more if I don't use sufficiently cold water afterwards, rather than anything to do with tap water not being hot enough - they do have to be held in the water a little while.

Also with dragon wings such as the Reaper young dragon (Bones or LE) and WoTC dragons, if I'm moving the wings to a different, lower position than their 'birth' positon there tends to be some recovery towards the birth position, unsurprisingly - but not very much. It was really quite easy to lower the Reaper dragons' wings to a lower, more dynamic position with just hot tapwater/cold tapwater. And safe too! :)

Edited by Simon
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Knowing how clumsy I am and that I have a boisterous 5-nearly-6 year old underfoot, I'm not boiling any bones. Hot tapwater seems to work fine IME.

I, on the other hand, have no children. And I plan to celebrate that by boiling a pot of water then dumping the water on the mini.

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Essentially, I think any method of heating will work, so long as you get the bonesium hot enough to bend easy. The sudden cooling I think is what sets the shape

 

 

Sort of, but I haven't had consistent results at below full boil. All my first batch had to be redone, despite being hot enough to flex and being dunked into ice water. But the higher temperature, longer boil ones I did the second time around worked perfectly.

 

But now that's only a sample size of two batches, so hardly conclusive - except that I can assure that the higher temp/longer boil method will work, because it did. Lower temp shorter boil might also work, I didn't do enough of those to create a good data spread.

Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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That's an understandable precaution to take, Simon. You may experience some rewarping with that, but repeated hot tapwater treatments might make it stick if you're looking for a safer route. If possible, I actually recommend water even hotter than pocketcthulhu had in the video - I use nothing less than a full rolling boil (with tongs). In my personal experience, that made the change stick the best.

 

But there's probably several ways to go about it if you're wanting to be real safe. The "memory" Bones has isn't of how it comes out of the package, but its original form - they just get warped along the way. The Bugbear's club is perpetually bent, and all the same way from the ones I've had, because it looks like that's how he fits into the blister. Getting him to remember what it was like to be born in the mold is what heat treatment is for - and he will remember. But for lower heat than full boiling it might take a couple of treatments to fully correct it and make it stick permanently depending on how long he's been warped into his "from-package" state.

 

He must unlearn what he has learned.

I believe you are right about the temperature, I was just kind of fooling around in this video, flik did eventually revert over the course of a week.

 

 

Essentially, I think any method of heating will work, so long as you get the bonesium hot enough to bend easy. The sudden cooling I think is what sets the shape

 

 

Sort of, but I haven't had consistent results at below full boil. All my first batch had to be redone, despite being hot enough to flex and being dunked into ice water. But the higher temperature, longer boil ones I did the second time around worked perfectly.

 

But now that's only a sample size of two batches, so hardly conclusive - except that I can assure that the higher temp/longer boil method will work, because it did. Lower temp shorter boil might also work, I didn't do enough of those to create a good data spread.

I did low temp long burn with submersion in salted Ice cold water (around freezing) and all mine reset over the course or a week or so.

Edited by pocketcthulhu
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That's an understandable precaution to take, Simon. You may experience some rewarping with that, but repeated hot tapwater treatments might make it stick if you're looking for a safer route. If possible, I actually recommend water even hotter than pocketcthulhu had in the video - I use nothing less than a full rolling boil (with tongs). In my personal experience, that made the change stick the best.

 

But there's probably several ways to go about it if you're wanting to be real safe. The "memory" Bones has isn't of how it comes out of the package, but its original form - they just get warped along the way. The Bugbear's club is perpetually bent, and all the same way from the ones I've had, because it looks like that's how he fits into the blister. Getting him to remember what it was like to be born in the mold is what heat treatment is for - and he will remember. But for lower heat than full boiling it might take a couple of treatments to fully correct it and make it stick permanently depending on how long he's been warped into his "from-package" state.

 

He must unlearn what he has learned.

I believe you are right about the temperature, I was just kind of fooling around in this video, flik did eventually revert over the course of a week.

 

>

Essentially, I think any method of heating will work, so long as you get the bonesium hot enough to bend easy. The sudden cooling I think is what sets the shape

 

 

Sort of, but I haven't had consistent results at below full boil. All my first batch had to be redone, despite being hot enough to flex and being dunked into ice water. But the higher temperature, longer boil ones I did the second time around worked perfectly.

 

But now that's only a sample size of two batches, so hardly conclusive - except that I can assure that the higher temp/longer boil method will work, because it did. Lower temp shorter boil might also work, I didn't do enough of those to create a good data spread.

I did low temp long burn with submersion in salted Ice cold water (around freezing) and all mine reset over the course or a week or so.

 

Neither of my fliks (LE red or the Bones version) have reset, and I did them both with hot tapwater/cold tapwater. There was a little reversion, but pretty minimal. But I held them both in both sets of water much longer than in your picture. Indeed at least with the red, I recall using a cup - jamming the mini into the cup with wings bent back, then leave it several minutes, both hot then cold.

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Alrighty, I attempted to get another video but it wasn't very impressive but I did learn a couple of things.

irst of all get your water Sub freezing, so get a big cup and fill it with ice and a lot of salt and this will inhibit the freezing process and let it sit in the frig for an hour or so.

learned from my first attempt and used a pasta strainer and just threw a couple minis in it and let them sit in the boiling water for about 20 seconds or so and that alone reset the worst bent sections.

and instead of holding the mini straight in that painfully cold water I just dumped the minis in and let them set for about 10 minutes

 

these were the Worst of the group and I'm Reallly happy with the results, well aside from the tifling caster, her staff is So thin there's just nothing to be done about it.

 

8708407763_c704cbdd33_c.jpg

Edited by pocketcthulhu
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what about holding the casters staff in position when you dunk it?

 

Well, I wouldn't use the word 'hold' here. Someone might misunderstand and try to dunk the figure into the boiling water.

 

You'll note that I have a high opinion of other people's common sense : )

 

What I thought I'd try once I get my vampire is 'splinting' the long thin items like the staff with a needle or similar lightly tacked in place with CA glue before boiling & setting 'em. I haven't had an opportunity to try yet.

 

It also just occured to me that Bones is soft enough when boiled to pin it with an extremely thin needle. Yet again, haven't tried this yet but it might work quite well. If that works, then you could boil, pin, and set very easily indeed.

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