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Slashhamster

77015 - Bugbear

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Here's my take on the bugbear. This is my first real re-basing attempt. In the past, I have done some really minor basing onto square tiles, but I spent quite a bit more time on this one. I cut off most of the broccoli base, and glued him to a Proxie Model circular base. I used some modeling paste to fill in the base, and then various ballasts for texture. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, although I learned a lot for future attempts; most notably, base a few models at the same time, should speed the process up quite a bit.

 

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This is also the first time I have tried dark lining. I saw how effective Buglips uses it in his WIP thread, so I decided to give it a try. I am undecided whether I like it or not. I used Reaper MSP Brown Liner. Very little of it actually made it through to the final product, but you can see it in a few areas. I found the base skin layer took quite a bit longer, as extra coats were required to cover up the liner that slopped over where it shouldn't.

 

My metallics still suck. wacko.png I need to figure out a method to improve them as I have yet to be very happy with any of the weapons I've done. I get a bit lost trying to figure out where to highlight on a weapon like this guy's spiked club.

 

I've got the Bones minotaur in progress now, hopefully I can get him done before the Bones invasion lands.

 

C&C welcome!

Edited by Slashhamster
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This is a great job! I've yet to do something so aggressive as cut off the broccoli base; the most I've done is wrapped putty around it to 'blend' it into a base. The base looks really natural, and I'm digging the job on the mini as well.

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The basing is very well done and you show a strong foundation of painting minis. You probably should look into some blending techniques before tackling metal as you'll need a decent grasp on those to do anything outside of wash+drybrush.

 

As for the lining, once you have the brush control and confidence the secret is doing it after you placed down your colors not before. Doing it before is to help you deal with not being able to reach everywhere with your brush and to help you not having to worry about if you have the control to paint up against to separate parts without the paint going everywhere more then actually defining parts. If you really want to make something pop you need to line if after you're done with the shades at the very least.

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I've yet to do something so aggressive as cut off the broccoli base; the most I've done is wrapped putty around it to 'blend' it into a base.

Honestly, it was probably unnecessary. I was a little concerned that gluing the entire base to the circular disc would leave it too elevated, and make him look like he was on a hill (the proxie model bases are thinner than typical circular bases). Modelling paste works great as a filler though, so I'm pretty sure it would have been equally effective to just glue his entire base on; this is actually what I did for the minotaur I'm working on, as I wanted a larger gluing surface.

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I always cut off the base. Some people use a jewelers saw but I'm pretty dang good with just a pair of sprue cutters and a file. Can get most broccoli bases off in less then 5 minutes. If it's a bones mini then it's less then a minute.

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If you are rebasing to a flat base removing the broccoli is not necessary, just use putty or even just pva & sand to build a smooth transition before you decorate.

 

If you are putting the mini on a resin base then you do need a means of removing the mini. Bones I do with my hobby knife, metal minis I do with my dremel knock-off (same effective tool for 1/3 the price) and final touch ups with a file if needed.

 

As to doing metals the secret to metals is smooth finishes. The powdery texture you get from drybrushing is a terrible finish for metals, they just do not reflect light like that (usually). Base coat, wash with a Brilliant Blue: Pure Black mix, drybrush with your original base colour to re-establish it, paint 1 or 2 levels of brighter highlights onto the metal areas. I use Shadowed Steel as my base with Polished Silver and Pearl White for highlights.

 

As to where to put them, look at where the light is gleaming off your mini above, that's where the highlights go. So one way of figuring it out is to do the base metal coat and take a few shots. The spots where the light shines off are where your highlights go, and you now have a handy reference for finishing your model :)

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This guy is amazing. I love the detail, like the veins popping on the arm. I think it was a good call removing the base, that basing is spectacular. The club definitely isn't on the level of the rest, but I have no skill in that area and can't give any real advice. I'd probably cheat and paint on some rust to try and give it some texture and make it look weathered, but that's because I haven't figured out NMMs yet either.

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Really love this, his muscles look excellent! The lining looks great IMO too, they separate the parts of his body and armour nicely.

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That's a fine lookin Bugbear. Since you mention my WIP of this guy, how useful was it? A lot of people seem to enjoy them, but so far I haven't had much feedback on how useful they are when somebody attacks one of the same things. If there's something I can do a better job of clarifying or covering as a topic, I can keep it in mind for future ones.

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Thanks all for the kind words.

 

MonkeySloth and ObsidianCrane, also thanks for the suggestions. I agree with both of you. I know my blending needs improvement; it's a slow, steady learning thing. I'm still working out water/paint ratios, and how much to carry on the brush. What seems to happen most of the time is when I get to the highlight layer, I end up wiping out a good chunk of the midtone, and it ends up looking two tone. On this guy I think my shadow/mid tone were just a little too close together; probably should've darkened the shadow a bit further. The red bag has a similar problem, I just didn't pick colors far enough apart.

 

I bookmarked your steps for the metal on these guys ObsidianCrane; I definitely want to give something like that a try. I got a bit lazy on the club on this one...maybe I'll give it one more go over next time I get some painting time.

 

I gotta say, the thought of doing lining after base coats frightens me. ik_wow.gif My brush control is just not to that level yet, maybe some day.

 

That's a fine lookin Bugbear. Since you mention my WIP of this guy, how useful was it? A lot of people seem to enjoy them, but so far I haven't had much feedback on how useful they are when somebody attacks one of the same things. If there's something I can do a better job of clarifying or covering as a topic, I can keep it in mind for future ones.

I found it useful for a few things; the lining as I mentioned, and also your totally unexpected but totally cool skin tone. I ended up trying for something similar by mixing some yellow and green into the bronzed flesh triad. Also, simple things that should be obvious, like drybrush the armor first so you don't make a mess everywhere else.

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Highlights are hard and only come with experence. It took me about 2 years to get the control to not cover my midtones 80% of the time but everyone developes at their own rate and hopefully you'll have better luck then me on that front.

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I like the grey fur. I have two more of these guys waiting in blisters, so I'll use the grey like you did here on one. That'll make him the silverback - the leader. Which I think will make him appear scarier.

 

I also really like the variation you did on the skintone, and I'm going to keep that idea in mind. Lots of critters coming I don't have skin planned out for yet, and I'm positive that'll be useful on some of them.

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He looks awesome, that is some very clearly defined musculature! Well done!

 

As for the metallics, I kind of suck at it too and I especially remember having a hard time with this guys spiked club. I think yours could benefit from a darkening wash. I actually like GW's washes quite a bit, and have been using their 'Nuln Oil' on my metals (Shadowed Steel base). Secret Weapon also makes some fun colored washes that can be used to give a tint of blue, green or red for example. IIRC, I hit this guys armored parts with their Blue-Black wash, followed by the Nuln Oil. The spiked club still turned out kind of crappy (I was much happier with his scale mailed shoulder), but it's something to play around with at least. ::):

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