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Nightmare black, it seems...different


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I played around with nightmare black for the first time this afternoon and it seemed...different from other paints. Like maybe it was missing opacity, and it shaded out to a really really nice blue color. Is it supposed to be like the clearbright line? Just pigment, nothing to add opacity?

 

Also, I used it to dot an eye that I had painted with a linen white, and it came out a really, really, pretty blue. Just a tip.

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It's a misnomer to say "just pigment, nothing to lend opacity."

 

Pigments are physical substances, colored powders which need have no chemical relationship to each other. Each is uniquely itself. Some, especially modern dye-based ones such as the phthalocyanines, are completely transparent. Others are translucent or solidly opaque. It's the nature of their microscopic structure and individual optical properties.

 

It's been my experience that in acrylics pigments tend to come out slightly more transparent than they do in oils, and apparently minis paints, with their thinning and additives, are a little more transparent still.

 

What adds opacity to pigments is other pigments, as far as I know. In many colors opacity comes from titanium white (probably the most opaque pigment used now that people have moved away from the heavy metal cadmium reds, oranges, and yellows). Other paints may use red or yellow iron oxide to add opacity (Reaper's Palomino Gold is either yellow iron oxide or yellow ochre -- natural iron oxide mixed with clay).

 

When I hear of a deep black-looking paint that shades to a beautiful blue I immediately think of phthalocyanine blue, which has both of those properties when full strength.

Edited by Pingo
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It's a misnomer to say "just pigment, nothing to lend opacity."

 

Not with paints formulated for miniatures. Reaper uses about 11 pigments and all their colors are mixed off of these and then various levels of vinyls, clays, etc. that are used for making the various colors but which also provide various levels of opacity. Mini paints which are truer to the original pigment color typically have less opacity.

 

What adds opacity to pigments is other pigments, as far as I know. In many colors opacity comes from titanium white (probably the most opaque pigment used now that people have moved away from the heavy metal cadmium reds, oranges, and yellows). Other paints may use red or yellow iron oxide to add opacity (Reaper's Palomino Gold is either yellow iron oxide or yellow ochre -- natural iron oxide mixed with clay).

 

When I hear of a deep black-looking paint that shades to a beautiful blue I immediately think of phthalocyanine blue, which has both of those properties when full strength.

 

Palomino Gold is yellow ochre. With mini paints opacity is typically provided with vinyl. The vinyl is typically white and why more opaque colors appear washed out.

 

So to get back to the OP Nightmare black is a very dark blue but to maintain the integrity of the richness of the color very little vinyl was added. So with that color you want to paint an undercoat of black down if you're going for a blued black. Coincidentally this is also how you get yellow to work. yellow brown base followed by the yellow you want over that undercoat pretty easy.

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It's a misnomer to say "just pigment, nothing to lend opacity."

Not with paints formulated for miniatures. Reaper uses about 11 pigments and all their colors are mixed off of these and then various levels of vinyls, clays, etc. that are used for making the various colors but which also provide various levels of opacity. Mini paints which are truer to the original pigment color typically have less opacity.

 

What adds opacity to pigments is other pigments, as far as I know. In many colors opacity comes from titanium white (probably the most opaque pigment used now that people have moved away from the heavy metal cadmium reds, oranges, and yellows). Other paints may use red or yellow iron oxide to add opacity (Reaper's Palomino Gold is either yellow iron oxide or yellow ochre -- natural iron oxide mixed with clay).

When I hear of a deep black-looking paint that shades to a beautiful blue I immediately think of phthalocyanine blue, which has both of those properties when full strength.

Palomino Gold is yellow ochre. With mini paints opacity is typically provided with vinyl. The vinyl is typically white and why more opaque colors appear washed out.

 

So to get back to the OP Nightmare black is a very dark blue but to maintain the integrity of the richness of the color very little vinyl was added. So with that color you want to paint an undercoat of black down if you're going for a blued black. Coincidentally this is also how you get yellow to work. yellow brown base followed by the yellow you want over that undercoat pretty easy.

Fascinating. Thank you for the information. I love this kind of thing.

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I believe Nightmare Black is one of the discontinued Pro Paints. So it is Reaper, but has left the building. One paint Reaper sells that is also a blue black is Blue Liner in the MSP Core line, a very nice color IMO that gets used frequently. I'm sure there are others that would come close, like Midnight Blue, but I think Blue Liner is the blackest of the blue blacks currently. Midnight Blue isn't as dark.

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I think the OP is referring to one of the Kickstarter paints, which backers could pick up at ReaperCon if they'd pledged for them. If I recall correctly, these paints will eventually join the RMS paint line after the KS orders have been fulfilled. I had the opportunity to use a little Nightmare Black at the con (Thanks, Adrift!), and I found it very similar in color to Blue Liner, at more of a paint consistency.

 

Edit: Yep, looks like Nightmare Black is part of the Undead Paint color set from the KS!

Edited by Nissiana
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well, I just bought a bottle of Liquitex phthalocyanine blue. Saddly it was a gorgeous and likely to be much used rich blue, but not the blue black i as hopping to get. Alas, woe is me

Mix it with black and it makes a great dark blue. Mix it with burnt sienna or burnt umber and it makes a great nuanced dark blue. Paint it over pure black and it makes the black look blacker (an old illustrator's trick).

 

If you mix it, only use a tiny amount compared to the other paint. The phthalos are so strong they will dominate any color mixture, so you should always start with a very small amount of them and only increase if necessary.

 

Phthalo blue is also very close to pure cyan, and makes the cleanest, purest greens and purples in mixes. Even yellow ochre (aka Palomino Gold) will make a pretty bright and clean-looking leaf green when mixed with phthalo blue.

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Hmmm is this a Reaper paint? It sounds really pretty, so I was looking for it and failing my search rolls...

 

Completely off topic but I never though of putting it this way when you haven't found something via search. Genius!

 

Also, does anyone have any pics of this stuff in action.

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Thanks Pingo. The making the black look blacker is very helpful right now. I have a half painted bones unicorn/nightmare on my table that I want to make look very black. I thought it would come out as a super dark blue that I would have to mix to lighten, not the really very lovely blue it is (My Bones forces are going to end up with a lot of blue cloaks and such, I really love the colour)

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Fascinating. Thank you for the information. I love this kind of thing.

 

Neat, isn't it? Essentially most acrylic paint is the same, since it all comes out of the same source, but there are interesting subtle differences. Right now I'm using Reaper Master Series, Reaper Pro Paint (old), Ral Partha, and Coat D'Arms.

 

The two Reapers are fairly close together. Master Series is a bit better handling, but the overall behaviour is pretty close. But between those and the other two there are worlds of difference. I'm positive this is something I can exploit with experimentation, which is partly why I'm eager to knock out Takky and get back to Bones. What I learn there I'll take back when I return to metals and start pushing for fancy jobs. Things may get very interesting.

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Fascinating. Thank you for the information. I love this kind of thing.

 

Neat, isn't it? Essentially most acrylic paint is the same, since it all comes out of the same source, but there are interesting subtle differences. Right now I'm using Reaper Master Series, Reaper Pro Paint (old), Ral Partha, and Coat D'Arms.

 

The two Reapers are fairly close together. Master Series is a bit better handling, but the overall behaviour is pretty close. But between those and the other two there are worlds of difference. I'm positive this is something I can exploit with experimentation, which is partly why I'm eager to knock out Takky and get back to Bones. What I learn there I'll take back when I return to metals and start pushing for fancy jobs. Things may get very interesting.

 

Buglips: The RP and CdA paint does real well with Liquitex additives, and when you add some flow aid to those older paints you begin to see it behave more like the Reaper paints. The RP paints have a lot more clays in them which is why they have great coverage and typically have a more scratch resistant coat, but also why they sometimes have a gritty feel to them. The CdA have a higher Vinyl content which is why if you put them on un-thinned they tend to have a satin sheen to them.

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