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gutbeast
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A decent printer . . . .

 

 

Seriously though, according to the CAV2 handbook you'll need:

  • Ten-sided dice (D10)
  • Six-sided dice (D6) (For damage tracking purposes only)
  • Eight-sided dice (D8) (For damage tracking purposes only)
  • Various CAV Miniatures (Models)
  • Measuring devices (flexible tape measures are best)
  • A deck of standard playing cards
  • Pennies, beads, or other small items to use as tokens.

 

Personally I feel you need:

  • (2) D10
  • Enough D8s to have one for each CAV you're fielding
  • Various CAV Miniatures (Models)
  • Tape measures (Buy a good 3-5' one from the hardware store. You'll be happier in the long run.)
  • A deck of playing cards
  • A copy of the Rulebook and Data cards which can be found here http://www.reapermini.com/images/games/cav/CAV2.zip

If they sky is the limit, you may want to get:

  • A copy of Shards from http://www.mil-net.net/ It's freeand has several premade senarios.
  • Blast templates
  • Tokens or markers
  • Dice box or tower
  • Terrain

 

Some shopping advice:

 

Pick models based on their looks. Until you've played a few (or a lot of) games the data cards will be Greek to you.

Two things you do want to watch are:

Affiliation

Points

These can be found on the data card under the name. Affiliation is important if you want to play a certain faction (there are bonuses for fielding single faction armies) Points are a numerical representation of the strength of the model. As long as the total points of a side are +/- about 100 points, the match should be fairly even.

 

With current white metal prices, if you want to field all the sections listed for a side listed in Shards, it will cost you $100-$250 for all the models. If this is a little too pricey, you can house rule like Linkinatutu and I do and play with 4-5 CAVs with each one being its own section so they each get their own activation. It's also great if you just don't have the time for a full game.

 

You don't need to go buy a bunch of terrain to play. Right now we use a piece of scrap fabric to denote the playing area. We use shapes cut out of green fabric to denote forests, blue for water and brown for rough terrain. You can use old boxes and bottles for buildings and other structures,

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A lot of people are probably hesitant to answer b/c the game is in a state flux. The 2nd edition rules are being phased out and a 3rd edition is being developed. The minis from 2E will still be useable in 3E tho, so switching from one to the other is mostly a matter of getting a new rulebook.

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Having played both CAV2 and the CAV Strike Ops demo at ReaperCon the only major difference I can find is the went from single D10 to 2D6 on the rolls and the Defence Value/Armor Value has increased from 8 to 12. Beyond that there is just clarification and cleanup of the rules. Since all the 2nd edition rules and data cards are free to print and all old models will carry through I see no down side to jumping in. (Aside from the anticipation for the bones release. :D )

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Having played both CAV2 and the CAV Strike Ops demo at ReaperCon the only major difference I can find is the went from single D10 to 2D6 on the rolls and the Defence Value/Armor Value has increased from 8 to 12. Beyond that there is just clarification and cleanup of the rules.

 

Seriously???

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