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I'm glad I read this as I'd no idea resin is toxic.

 

Best wishes on the build.

 

When cured most resin is not toxic, but it does sand into small particles that can harm your lungs, just like working with plaster or anything else that causes small particulates. Usually wet sanding does the trick. Pingo may have overcompensated by sanding underwater.

 

Halber

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First, all aerosol dusts are bad for your lungs, causing asbestosis, black lung, white lung (baker's lung), whatever. It looks like resin dust has the additional effect of causing asthma-like symptoms even in non-asthmatics.

 

If I'm working with uncured resin, I take precautions for poisonous organic gases: a good filter mask rated for organic vapors and very good ventilation.

 

If I'm working with cured resin, I take precautions for dust: wet sanding, working in an area that can be easily cleaned (and cleaning afterward), and consider organic vapor protections as well.

 

Caveat: I'm not the hazardous materials specialist you're looking for. Take this as what I would do, not advice for what you should do. And find the MSDSes for the materials you're working with and follow the recommended precautions.

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Corporea quickly likes all of Pingo's posts she can find today. Happy Boat-Building Day!

 

In related news, how brittle is resin for sanding? I'm working on an order of the stick mini (mask on, no fear) and gently sanding, but I'm afraid I might break it if I'm too vigorous.

 

If it's a thin part be cautious, anything else should be ok, assuming that it's at least a reasonable quality resin. As an incredibly vague rule of thumb, if it can bend a little or there's a slight transparency to it when there is light behind then it's thin.

 

If the figure is 28mm I'd take it easy but not be too worried about something like the torso or legs unless there's a lot of little details. If it's a larger garage kit only detailing parts should be an issue.

For the kit Pingo is working on for example I wouldn't be worried about breaking any of it unless I dropped it from a height onto a hard surface, except maybe the areas where the gunk had been drained from.

Edited by Nocturne
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While not nice to breathe, I do not think it is all respirator worthy, unless you are doing a lot at one time, or for long term. Filing and sanding a bit here and there is not something that concerns me. You get more fine particle contamination for following the school bus with your windows down.

 

Like anything, do what you are comfortable with.

 

Edit - awesome boat, though. Link is blocked here at work, so have to check their site out later for prices.

Edited by sethohman

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About sails:

Have you thought about how to do the sails, yet, or is that a step too far as yet? Given this ship's start as a chem experiment, you should consider doping up some paper sails. Fun times ahead!


I just found something with about five examples of ships similar to this one. Modern recreations of medieval ships:

http://www.tallship-fan.de/index_cog06_e.htm

http://www.tallship-fan.de/index_cog07_e.htm

 

It is a collection of little ships visiting a town of the old Hanseatic League. Basic single, square rigged sails.

__________

 

Elsewhere I found this nice little image:

pg236.jpg ...of a 'sea anchor'.

It is from The Text-Book of Seamanship, 1891.

 

It shows how to construct a sea anchor. But the point of looking at it is that it shows how a sail is attached to a spar. (D is the spar; S is a small sail...)

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Welp, I've now done another new thing I've never done before, which is sculpt with epoxy putty.

 

The ship's cabin had a few dings: a bubble obliterating a little of the back window roof and a triangular piece out of the upper wall, as well as a mysterious white waxy substance.

 

That white stuff -- whatever it was -- was completely dry when I picked up the model today, so I decided to treat it as an eccentric part of the resin.

 

I patched over the little scooped out place where the greasy white stuff was and rebuilt the missing piece of wall and cabin roof.

 

(And boy, there's nothing like big closeups of the work to demonstrate how cheesy one's sculpting skills are.)

 

I don't have any green stuff, so this is what I used, marine epoxy putty:

post-8022-0-66628300-1370635284.jpg

 

Its outer layer actually was green, but when mixed with the white stuff inside it it all turned to a pale grey.

 

I wore nitrile gloves for the work and they got pretty sticky. Thanks to members here, at least I knew I could wet my gloved fingertips for easier handling. The sculpting was pretty rudimentary, done with a popsicle stick and bamboo skewer.

 

This is where the exposed white mystery substance was:

post-8022-0-46874400-1370635302.jpg

 

Here's the fix of the cabin roof:

post-8022-0-94799900-1370635313.jpg post-8022-0-52782700-1370635321.jpg

 

And the reconstructed wall chip:

post-8022-0-41320200-1370635328.jpg post-8022-0-54888700-1370635334.jpg

 

I was a little sloppy with the original epoxy, as I noticed a little overflow between the deck and the cabin. I think I'll live with it.

post-8022-0-25468500-1370635341.jpg

Edited by Pingo
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After the epoxy dries you might try sanding it a little. A needle file and an emery board might be able refine the sculpted zones a little more.

 

Another thought is to add a flat board along that entire aft railing. I think it might be called a "cap rail". But a flat board along edges like that is a typical/normal sailing ship feature.

Edited by TGP

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Hmm. It would appear that the balusters and handrails of the railing are not, as they said, wood, but highly compressed cardboard, like many layers of grey-brown paper.

 

This gets me rethinking my plans.

 

I had been hoping to pin the railings to the hull through the deck for a bit of extra sturdiness. Now I'm wondering if I can actually drill into the cardboard without it splitting. Perhaps if I hold it in a clamp while I drill?

 

I have some wooden coffee stirrers like long narrow popsicle sticks which are approximately the same size as the handrail pieces, so I think I may be able to substitute them for the cardboard handrails. But I like the pattern of the balusters and hope to use them.

 

After cutting the pieces to the proper length there was still some left over to experiment with.

 

I hope this will not complicate painting or watproofing the boat.

 

It's a bit of a disappointment, but not a huge one.

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I'd like to thank member TGP, who identified this model as a medieval cog, although it has been given fancier sails.

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The balustrade sounds like heavy chipboard. A pin vise might be able to drill it but I think that would just weaken it.

 

Would it be possible to add strips of basswood and craft sticks as reinforcement kinda like this? More glued surfaces makes the whole thing stronger.. ..that's the theory anyway.

 

Railing.pngLight grey piece is the balusters. Dark grey is the resin deck and hull pieces.

The other pieces would be basswood and such.

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The balustrade sounds like heavy chipboard. A pin vise might be able to drill it but I think that would just weaken it.

 

Would it be possible to add strips of basswood and craft sticks as reinforcement kinda like this? More glued surfaces makes the whole thing stronger.. ..that's the theory anyway.

 

Railing.pngLight grey piece is the balusters. Dark grey is the resin deck and hull pieces.

The other pieces would be basswood and such.

That's a great idea.

 

I have, I'm afraid, already drilled the balustrades. The holes are pretty small, and I kept them firmly clamped while drilling. I hope to pin them to the deck, and the hull too if it doesn't curve in so much I'm risking coming back out, if that makes sense. I drilled each length of balustrade with a different pattern so I wouldn't confuse them when assembling the ship.

 

I love your suggestion of basswood or craft sticks for support. I have seen them in art and craft stores and wondered what they were for. I'll have to see about getting some.

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I'd like to thank member TGP, who identified this model as a medieval cog, although it has been given fancier sails.

 

If you want a much better designed cog that is a plastic model, and IMHO easier to work with, you should go for this http://plastic-models-store.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=826 . It is roughly about the same price, and this one comes with sails and can be made waterline or with the bottom on it. I would post pictures of mine, but my daughter broke my camera.

 

And a tip for working with the putty, it looks like you dragged your tools across it. With clay and putties you always have to push it or roll it. Still what you did is not bad for the scale.

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I'd like to thank member TGP, who identified this model as a medieval cog, although it has been given fancier sails.

 

If you want a much better designed cog that is a plastic model, and IMHO easier to work with, you should go for this http://plastic-models-store.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=826 . It is roughly about the same price, and this one comes with sails and can be made waterline or with the bottom on it. I would post pictures of mine, but my daughter broke my camera.

 

And a tip for working with the putty, it looks like you dragged your tools across it. With clay and putties you always have to push it or roll it. Still what you did is not bad for the scale.

 

Thank you. I've never sculpted epoxy putty before, so live and learn.

 

That other cog is very nice-looking indeed, but this is my birthday present, you see. Also I may be doing some modifications that are ... well, ahistorical, at the very least. Anyhow, for my purposes and for sentimental reasons this is the one I am currently enjoying putting together.

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Well, I have got the railings constructed, pinned, and glued to the model. They really do seem to be a high grade compressed cardboard rather than wood. I cut them, with much tedium, with an exacto knife. I am wondering if a jeweler's saw would have been a better option.

 

I have not done the mast or sails yet. I am thinking perhaps I might want to do two different sets of sails: One the simple square sail of the medieval cog, and one the fancier cutter-style sail setup that TGP identified from the photo on the model box.

 

I am planning to paint the sails. This is not going to be a historical model.

 

I cut the balustrades by the model. They're temporarily taped on here to help measuring the next section.

post-8022-0-56984000-1370887846.jpg

 

I labeled each section with pencil. This is the first port balustrade, marked with a "P"

post-8022-0-23772700-1370887904.jpg

 

I tested the pin vise on a scrap of leftover balustrade held firmly in a clamp to make sure I actually could drill the cardboard for pins.

post-8022-0-02782600-1370887914.jpg

 

I also drilled each section of balustrade with a different pattern so I wouldn't mix them up.

post-8022-0-87186600-1370888045.jpg

 

Here's the model so far with the balustrades and railings glued on. I included a half-painted Reaper mini for scale.

post-8022-0-68993000-1370888108.jpg post-8022-0-51464000-1370888476.jpg post-8022-0-47256500-1370888486.jpg

 

I believe it's ready for painting to begin. I'm still considering the mast, and I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the bowsprit. It's too low for a traditional figurehead to show well, but I feel there ought to be something interesting there.

 

The dowels that came with the model were untapered, but I have a chopstick that does taper that may fit for the bowsprit. I will have to drill out a little of the hole for it regardless.

 

The model photo shows a little flag at the back, and I would need to drill a place for that too.

 

 

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