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Tonight's results:

 

First:

My latest Reaper order arrived and my daughter decided to decorate the invoice.

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I added the BONES minis that I ordered to the box of unpainted BONES. I have most of them now (duplicates of a few). I will be placing an order tonight and hoping to see my Vampire pledge arrive beforehand...if not I may be forced to place another order and my wallet is beginning to hurt.

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I also added the clear brights 2 triad to my paint collection (currently all of the LTPKs plus Clear Brights #1 and #2 plus two bottles of sample paints). I received my second bottle of sample paint in a row. That brings my results to two bottles in five orders.

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I finished up the Fore Castle tonight:

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The ship is coming along nicely:

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The best days are when packages arrive in the post. Can you tell me what the Clear Bright paints are and how they differ from other paints?

 

The ship is coming along nicely!

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The best days are when packages arrive in the post. Can you tell me what the Clear Bright paints are and how they differ from other paints?

 

The ship is coming along nicely!

 

This has been answered quite a few times recently, but perhaps most fully here: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/41553-ms-clear-cyan/?p=584850. Pingo also has a couple of posts up about it I think, but I can't find them I'm afraid.

 

The TLDR version? There are 12 colors that all the rest of the Reaper paints are mixed from, and 10 of them are available as paints. Some of them have 'Clear' or 'Pure' in front of the name.

 

The colors are:

  • Clear Red (red)
  • Clear Yellow (green-phase yellow)
  • Pale Saffron (in HD) (orange-phase yellow)
  • Palomino Gold (yellow ochre)
  • Clear Blue (pthalo blue)
  • Clear Magenta (magenta)
  • Rust Brown (red oxide)
  • Ruddy Brown (brown oxide)
  • Pure Black
  • Pure White

With those, you could theoretically mix almost any shade in the Reaper color range.

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Wow, the detail on that ship is amazing. Does your cutter take care of all that detail on the net? I'd never be able to cut that by hand without making a mistake.

Hmmm, how to convince my wife I need one of those..

 

No, no, how to convince her SHE needs one of those for scrapbooking....

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Wow, the detail on that ship is amazing. Does your cutter take care of all that detail on the net? I'd never be able to cut that by hand without making a mistake.

Hmmm, how to convince my wife I need one of those..

 

No, no, how to convince her SHE needs one of those for scrapbooking....

The nets, windows, chains, etc were printed on transparency sheets.

 

 

 

The best days are when packages arrive in the post. Can you tell me what the Clear Bright paints are and how they differ from other paints?

 

The ship is coming along nicely!

 

This has been answered quite a few times recently, but perhaps most fully here: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/41553-ms-clear-cyan/?p=584850. Pingo also has a couple of posts up about it I think, but I can't find them I'm afraid.

 

The TLDR version? There are 12 colors that all the rest of the Reaper paints are mixed from, and 10 of them are available as paints. Some of them have 'Clear' or 'Pure' in front of the name.

 

The colors are:

  • Clear Red (red)
  • Clear Yellow (green-phase yellow)
  • Pale Saffron (in HD) (orange-phase yellow)
  • Palomino Gold (yellow ochre)
  • Clear Blue (pthalo blue)
  • Clear Magenta (magenta)
  • Rust Brown (red oxide)
  • Ruddy Brown (brown oxide)
  • Pure Black
  • Pure White

With those, you could theoretically mix almost any shade in the Reaper color range.

 

Thanks for the list! I knew what they were for, but didn't know about colors other than the two bright triads being explicit. It looks like I now need Pale Saffron (in HD), Rust Brown, and Ruddy Brown.

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My latest order arrived. I now own all of the first 29 BONES offered, except one. I have all of #77001-77029 except for #77019. The Orc Swordsman have been out of stock for some time now. I don't have the backing for the Ogre anymore (#77005) and might pick him up again at some point so that I can have it, but I am not sure.

 

I also was able to play Song of Blades and Heroes for the first time today. We fit in two games (one three player and one two player). I lost the first and won the second. I enjoyed it and plan to use it as an excuse to work through painting my BONES when my pledge arrives.

 

As for the The Maiden, the ratlines are giving me issues and I am tempted to make some compromises to finish it up. I think the issue might be one of scaling on the printouts I made on the laser printer at work (the transparencies). I could go by inkjet transparencies or I could just settle on some of it. I am leaning on the side of settling, TBH. No one would ever know.

 

I really would like to get some of these LTPKs done before I get my pledge.

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In hopes of completing this project this weekend, I settled on the ratlines and decided that I will use the lower ratlines for the upper section and leave off the lower ratlines...at least for now.

 

I used the 3D Booms Kitbash and like how they are turning out so far. Here is a pic of one of the three completed masts. The other two should be done during my next build session (hopefully also that will end with sails drying and some props being printed/cut/edged).

 

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I would just glue the ratlines at the bottom, and then wherever they fell at the top. I know from personal experience that the details one agonizes over during construction go unnoticed when confronted by the whole assembly of a project. My Winterhawk castle was that way (all those crenellations)

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I am just about ready to call this a done project. Here is a quick (dark and crappy) pic. I will post some more detailed images later.

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In favor of saving time, I am going to bulk upload images and then just answer questions that anyone has. I am ready to clear this off my desk and get back to painting LTPKs.

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Here are a few more shots:

 

I could go through and print up hammocks, beds and quite a few other props, but I am ready to call this done for now. It will be awesome to eventually give myself an excuse to put this on the table at the same time as my BW version: http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8390

 

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Awesome build!

Printing on transparency paper is something I'd never considered when looking at these papercraft things myself, seems like it'd be both easier and more structurally sound.

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