OneBoot's Bones 1 Kickstarter Figures WIP (picture heavy)

[Last Knight]

I need to get about 3 dozen empty droppers and do the same thing.

 

I started my paint collection with P3, before I found Reaper paints. Oops.

As did I. I still like and use them, but I've been steadily moving them to droppers.

 

I find a couple drops of distilled water in the goop at the bottom, coupled with the Mother of all Shaking, gets everything out.

[fanguad]

I know I'm late to the party (you're adding to this thread faster than I can keep up!), but you can also use a dremel for cutting pins. I bought piano wire for pins a while ago, not realizing that I should have bought brass wire instead. My wire cutters can handle it, but just barely. So I measure, put the appropriate length in vice grips, then use the dremel to cut.

[araziel]

Didn't know using brass wire was a thing, but I guess it's easier to bend and shape to your liking. I've always just used regular old steel wire.

[Corporea]

Giant Bronze Rat of Doom! Just wait until he shows up on the gaming table, only vulnerable to fire based attacks or something pesky like that. Hmmn... ideas for a Midas-like villain...

[briggart]

Have you tried looking at P3's paint mixing guide? There are some suggestions on how to shade/highlight their colors, including metallics. For molten bronze, the suggestion is to mix in some steel/silver for highlights and brown for shadow.

[LittleBluberry]

I thought I'd echo the advice given to emphasize metallics with a very, very thin wash of a very dark color. This is something I've done a lot with metal miniatures, especially on things like chainmail. Unfortunately when I tried to do it with Sir Forscale I realized that the trick doesn't work quite as well with Bones. I don't know if it's that the detail is shallower or softer or what, but my son got much better results drybrushing a metallic color over a dark base coat. For that nice shiny gun, a tiny hint of a dark wash in the crevices would do the trick, but it almost looks like you've got a bit of that going on already. (I guess I should add that it's possible I just applied too much steel paint first, because unlike most of my paints it didn't want to stick to bare Bones.)

 

And now I've got to go buy a few P3 metallics, because wow does it look amazing!

[Doug Sundseth]

Metallic paints are acrylic base plus reflective bits (normally mica, IIRC), plus a tint for paints other than the brightest silver. The tint is quite translucent. Most other paints, OTOH, are about as opaque as the formulator can make them, because otherwise you don't get coverage.

 

When you add opaque paint to metallics, the opacity reduces the reflectivity of the mica bits, so the paint gets duller. If you want to tint metallics, your best bet is to use a paint that is as transparent as you can manage. For Reaper Master Series paints, that would be the Clears.

[Jasper_the_2nd]

Must check out their mixing guide from home (because it might be useful, so of course is blocked from work....).

I had a few minutes at lunch (but not enough to get into any of my works in progress...production issue at 11:58...grumble grumble) so pulled out my P3 metallics.

 

First I played on paper:

On the right is molten bronze.
Next to it is MB and Brass Balls roughly 50/50 (pure BB above)

Next is MB and Solid Gold

And on the left is MB and Radiant Platinum, since I didn't have my silver here....

 

The gold and brass both look to have very close to the same metallic pigment, just with different bases. At least it looked that way to me.

 

So then I pulled out test subject #7.

slapped some MB on his gun. Waited impatiently for it to mostly dry. Splashed on some P3 Armor Wash I had brought in for Judas. More impatient waiting. Held fig in front of desk fan for a minute or two....

Did a bit of very rough highlighting with MB and then a bit of straight Solid Gold.

Then had two minutes left (and the MB hadn't really dried in the inset bits and had come off in the wash) so roughed in some "glowy" bits just cause....

 

Just to give you a quick idea of what I'd try. A brown based wash would likely look better (or cleaner anyway).

I'm not sure that using something like Solid Gold to mix in to lighten MB will work, or if layering between the two would have a better effect, but as it seems to have a very close match to the metallic pigment, getting more of that concentrated should give some sort of highlighting, especially if you keep the main body of the item a little darkened from whatever wash you use.

 

[psyberwolfe1]

Due to a bit of serendipity, I found this article talking about P3 metallics. I wasn't even looking for it! Anyways, it mentions that they blend nicely with P3's inks for tinting, so I'll give that a go next, since I just so happen to have a bottle of their Brown Ink.

 

That article is written by a Reaper Forum alumnist Fieldarchy. I still think Vallejo Metalics are better.

[LittleBluberry]

 

Due to a bit of serendipity, I found this article talking about P3 metallics. I wasn't even looking for it! Anyways, it mentions that they blend nicely with P3's inks for tinting, so I'll give that a go next, since I just so happen to have a bottle of their Brown Ink.

 

That article is written by a Reaper Forum alumnist Fieldarchy. I still think Vallejo Metalics are better.

 

 

Are you talking about the special alcohol-based Vallejo metallics, or the regular ones? I've been getting bad results with the regular ones on Bones (fine on metal) but I haven't tried the alcohol-based 'better' ones. And the one FLGS who carried anything other than P3 just closed.

[CashWiley]

My first mini used some VGC metallics and I quite liked it. Very vibrant, though I don't recall which one it was (the mid tone steel probably).

[OneBoot]

How fortuitous! I've got the Brown Ink to shade the Molten Bronze down, and I just got the Quick Silver yesterday (just because I liked the color) with which to bring the highlights up! It's almost like I did it intentionally.

 

...I mean, yes! I totally knew what I was doing the whole time!

 

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions regarding metallic paints! Very helpful, and I've been contemplating doing a nice rich blue on the face/tentacles on my Well of Chaos, followed by a thin glaze or two of Reaper's Honed Steel, since it thinned so nicely when I tried it before. This will (in theory) give it a nifty silvery sheen while still being very much blue. We'll see how it works.

 

As for pinning, I believe my FLGS has a tiny selection of wire, but I'm not positive. I looked up dremels and wow...they're expensive.

 

I have a favor to ask: Could someone who actually has a Wyrmgear take a couple of good close-up shots for me? I need to see his head, spine, and wing attachments in more detail for my Cheesegear. I'm going hardcore on this.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

Edited September 10, 2013 by OneBoot

[araziel]

I could do that for you tomorrow, but I bet some forumite will deliver well before then :)

 

Yours will most likely blow mine out of the water, and I'm looking forwards to it!

I'm pretty much hacking this job to death, but at least I'll have something physical to represent my mental image of the thing soon(ish).

Now to sculpt some tech cheese :P

[OneBoot]

After some significant consideration, I went ahead and ordered some GS; the Apoxie Sculpt I have just isn't going to cut it due to it not being the slightest bit sticky. It wasn't until I went hunting around for more information about GS that I found out that it was sticky; I'd never really thought about it before, but I'd assumed that it wasn't (no clue where I got that idea).

 

I've actually decided to take a break for a few days, perhaps even for rest of this week. Painting and checking the forums has been distracting me from job hunting, which is counter-productive. No extra income (Husband has a job, but it's enough to live on and not enough for many extras) means no shiny new paints or minis. I've had a full Reaper cart on their store page for awhile now, and I've decided that I'm going to use that as incentive to work extra hard to find employment, as that cart will be my present to myself when I get a job. :)

 

So if any of you see me on here in the next couple of days, feel free to pelt me with craft paint or something.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

Edited September 11, 2013 by OneBoot

[MonkeySloth]

For pinning just use regular size paperclips. They're the same thickness, more or less, of your adverage hobby pin rod but a tenth the price. For drill bits I recommend a model train store, they'll have a selection that will be cheaper and better quality then what's marketed to our hobby.

 

Good luck on the job hunt.