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OneBoot's Bones 1 Kickstarter Figures WIP (picture heavy)


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Someone was asking about which minis will actually fit into the case that was available during the KS, so I got curious and decided to find out for myself. These will be limited to the ones in the Vampire box, since the only add-ons we got were the dragons, and I already know those won't fit. ^_^

 

I will count a mini as "able to fit" only if all parts of the mini fit inside the space, no foam will need to be cut, and no bending of any part of the figure occurs. Also, they won't be in any particular order, though similar minis may be grouped together.

 

EDIT: Here's a link to a wonderful spreadsheet with all of the KS minis, including add-ons, which should help with matching names to figures.

 

Minis that fit:

Skeletal Swordsman (2)

Skeletal Archer (2)

Mr. Bones

Treasure chest

Altar of Evil (turned sideways)

Callie, female rogue

Lem, iconic bard

Astrid, female bard

Arthrand Nightblade, elf ranger

Bailey Silverbell

Ingrid, Female Gnome

*****kin Goregutter, Halfling Rogue

Kobolds (all sculpts) (12)

Rats (all sculpts) (12)

Wall of Fire

Burning Sphere

Townsfolk: Innkeeper

Townsfolk: Wench

Townsfolk: Strumpet

Townsfolk: Mom and kids

Townsfolk: Grandmother

Townsfolk: Oswald the Overladen

Townsfolk: Blacksmith

Townsfolk: Undertaker (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on top of his hat and hand may rub off over time)

Mummy

Barnabus Frost, Pirate Captain

Hajad, Pirate (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the top of the treasure chest may rub off over time)

Mariel Twinspar, Female Pirate (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the tip of her hat may rub off over time)

Deadeye Slim

Ellen Stone

Sascha Durand

Rex,Dark Fark Future Hero

Berkeley,Zombie Hunter (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the tip of her chainsaw may rub off over time)

Deputy Wayne Tisdale

Bonnie

Goblins (all sculpts EXCEPT FOR Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter) (20)

Medusa

Zombies (all sculpts) (5)

Mocking Beast

Ghast

Virina, Female Demon

Tiviel, Hellborn Rogue

Kyra, Iconic Cleric

Oxidation Beast

Familiars (all sculpts) (12)

All Vermin sculpts (Vermin: Scorpions, Spiders, Beetles, Spider Swarm, Rat Swarm, Beetle Swarm. NOTE: This does not include Bat Swarm, which doesn't fit) (12)

IMEF:Torch McHugh

IMEF:Jazz Jenkins

IMEF:Erik Proudfoot

Nova Corp Guard

Nova Corp Soldier

Nova Corp Female

Garvin Markus,Nova Corp Hero

Nova Corp Rifleman

Autumn Bronzeleaf (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the tip of her staff may rub off over time)

Damien, Hellborn Wizard (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the tip of his staff and fingers may rub off over time)

Anirion, Wood Elf Wizard (when turned diagonally)

Feiya, Iconic Witch

Juliette, Female Sorceress

Balto Burrowell, Gnome Wizard

Cassie, Gnome Wizard

Damiel, Iconic Alchemist

Elliwyn Heatherlark, Gnome Bard (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the tip of her sword may rub off over time)

Shaeress, Dark Elf Queen (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the tip of her headdress may rub off over time)

Finari, Female Paladin

Trista, the White Wolf (when turned diagonally)

Goldar, Male Barbarian (tight fit - fine for unpainted, but paint on the tip of his axe may rub off over time)

Aviriel Tellerion, Female Elf

Dain Deepaxe

Isabeau Laroche, Female Paladin

Drago Voss, Male Assassin

Dark Elf Warrior

Terezinya, Bonepander Wizard

Freja Fangbreaker

 

There were a small handful that technically fit, but that had some small part sticking up out of the foam. This may not bother somebody, but didn't fit my criteria, so I didn't include them.

 

EDIT EDIT: Not only did I miscount, but several didn't carry over when I copy/pasted from word. The total and the list have been corrected.

 

So, all told, 143 individual sculpts. Granted, a lot of those can double up, like the swarms and rats and such, so...if you only got one case, looks like roughly 100 is about all you'd be able to fit anyways (without modifying the case or the minis in any way). Two cases looks like it wasn't such a bad idea after all. You'd even have extra room with which to make some modifications to the foam for sticky-outy weapons and staves and such.

 

I'm going to go do something that doesn't involve staring at a spreadsheet now. :wacko:

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

Edited by OneBoot
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Okay, now back to your regularly scheduled WIP!

 

I have discovered that washes are really cool things, as well as some other stuff that I'll get into later. Exciting stuff!

 

So, as I mentioned before, I was feeling brave and wanted to try making my own wash. I filled an empty bottle of water with water from my tap (which I really shouldn't have done, in retrospect; I should have used the gallon of spring water I already had), and put in two little drops of dish soap, gently turning the bottle until the soap was dissolved. I cleaned any bubbles from the top of the water with a paper towel, and ta-da! Wash water.

 

Since I don't have an empty dropper bottle yet, I hit on a way to regulate how much water comes out of the bottle at once. I got a piece of packing tape large enough to entirely cover the mouth of the bottle, and placed it off-center so that just a little opening was left. I tested it by putting two drops of Tanned Skin into a palette well, and carefully trying to add just one drop of water to it. It worked like a charm, and the water mixed easily into the paint. To test the consistency, I painted my thumb:

 

post-11389-0-38473800-1373438463_thumb.jpg

 

Looks good to me! (at least, I think it does. It's at least acting the way I would expect a wash to behave. It looked a lot better in person; it was a bit too shiny for my camera to capture the detail properly)

 

I then tried a small amount on Rat #2 (Fair Skin). No change. So I loaded up the brush and went to town. "Slather" definitely seems to be the correct term when applying washes. I found that I had the best results if I stroked perpendicular to the fur lines I was interested in, since they were able to grab more of the wash that way. It was a ton of fun, and definitely gave me the nice, defined fur I was going for, with the added bonus of defining the eyes and mouth area, which were difficult to see before.

 

post-11389-0-50038000-1373438630_thumb.jpg

 

It turned out so well, I rashly decided to give Stuart (Rat #1) the same treatment. I didn't want to darken him quite so much, though, since I wanted him to still look white. So, I mixed two drops of Stone Grey with two drops of water instead of one and painted my pointer finger to see if it was thin enough.

 

post-11389-0-15136300-1373438764_thumb.jpg

 

Still too dark. So I added another drop of water and tried again. The wash was getting really quite watery by this point, but after testing it on my middle finger, I saw that the color was right where I wanted it.

 

post-11389-0-35942600-1373438846_thumb.jpg

 

So, I started applying it to Stuart. It behaved itself fairly well at first, but I hadn't realized just how much wash the brush I'd chosen could hold (a cheap synthetic), so I ended up with quite a lot on. As it started to dry, more and more of the pigment started coming out of the brush, turning him more and more gray. After my first brushful was gone, I also had these awful "watermark" spots around where the edges of the wash had dried. Somewhat disheartened, I finished washing him, then sat back to survey the damage.

 

post-11389-0-02137200-1373443419_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-47254500-1373443437_thumb.jpg

 

I tried to fix it by doing another "wash", but this time used just plain water. I met with very minimal success. With enough scrubbing (with a cheap brush) and several applications of water, I was able to diminish the edges of the watermark spots a bit, but that was really it. I did this for maybe 15 minutes, then finally gave up in frustration since I could see it wasn't having much of an effect. (I took pictures at this point, but there's really no visible change, so there's no point in posting them)

 

I sat and thought for awhile about how I could fix this, and wondered idly whether doing a wash of white would do anything. I realized immediately that would be silly, and would only serve to remove the shading I'd already gotten, which wouldn't help anything.

 

That's when I remembered drybrushing.

 

It was like this huge lightbulb turned on in my head: Oh yeah!! I can just drybrush white all over him, which will clean him up and just leave the gray in the crevices where I want it to be! Why didn't I think of that before?!

 

I happily went to work doing just that, and it was simply amazing how well he cleaned up. Overall he's still a bit darker than I would like, and I couldn't really drybrush his face without messing up what was already there, but on the whole he's SOO much better than he was:

 

post-11389-0-95349000-1373444337_thumb.jpg

 

Further reinforcing my firm belief that drybrushing is magic. :lol:

 

It wasn't until I got to this point that I recalled other posters mentioning washing then drybrushing, but it just didn't really click before (especially since up until now, I'd mistakenly thought that drybrushing was only for doing armor or highlights, and since he was already white to begin with, I didn't see the point in doing highlighting, as any color I chose would have to be darker than the white basecoat).

 

Feeling somewhat sheepish, I gave the same treatment of drybrushing the basecoat color onto Rat #2, with even better results, especially since I didn't have any details I was worried about.

 

post-11389-0-01622700-1373444901_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-96168000-1373444913_thumb.jpg

 

So much learned today! And since I feel like I gained enough experience this session to earn another level as a Painter, I decided to celebrate by doing a bit more work on Mr. Bones. I also ate two cookies with M&M's in them.

 

EDIT: LOL!!!! Apparently just recently I earned the forum title of "Enlightened." Quite appropriate in this context! :)

 

Next up will be detail work on Rat #2. Or I may just go nuts and slather washes and drybrushing all over the rest of rats in a fit of crazed painting joy. ::D:

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

Edited by OneBoot
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I love this thread! Great job with the rats, and such a clever idea! For your shadows, feel free to get as creative as you want. There's no reason you can't use blue or red or purple as you crevice colors for your darker rats. Even for you lighter rats- the creamy ones, I could see a nice carnage red as a shadow color there. hmmn. I tend to steal from artists, so look at peter paul reubens- his art is all fluffy/soft, and much of that effect comes from his use of red as a shading tone. Just a thought. I love drybrushing on fur! It helps to pick up your highlights. Remember you can drybrush with different colors to enhance your highlights- start with a slightly lighter tone, then go back a few times with progressively lighter shades in increasingly smaller areas to create the effect of light on fur. Picture worth more words, courtesy google:

 


rat2R.jpg

 

 

Also I noted when looking at rat pictures that the highlights were not where I expected them to be. Weird. Anyway, keep it up and have fun!!

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When I'm doing quick and messy paint jobs I frequently make use of a couple of washes I've made using Liquitex Acrylic Ink, Liquitex Matte Medium, and Distilled water.

 

The ratios I use are approximately:

 

.5 Matte Medium

.25 Water

.25 Ink

 

You can use more medium and less ink if you want a lighter color. I know some people also add flow improver to their washes.

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@Corporea - Cool, I hadn't thought about blue or purple! I was actually trying to figure out how the heck to do shadows on an already black mini. :D I also would never in a million years considered red, I'll have to give that a try! And thanks for the reference pic, I had been looking at a few, but that one's perfect! Must...resist...urge...to add whiskers to minis....

 

@Teskal - That was an awesome tutorial, thank you so much! Once the wallet has recovered from all the other miniature-related purchases I've had to make (and am still making; gotta get me an Xacto knife), I'll start looking into making my own bottled washes. It'll save a lot of time, and allow for greater consistency with thickness and pigmentation of my washes. Until then, it's gonna be RMS and water. ^_^

 

@Anyone - Could I make my own bottled washes just using RMS and distilled water, or is ink + matte medium + water + flow aid pretty much the standard recipe? Do the three Reaper inks have flow aid in them already like their regular paints? What is it that the matte medium does for the wash? Is it an integral part in making the consistency of the wash correct, or is it just to keep it from getting too shiny?

 

Sorry I've got so many questions, I'm starting from zero and having to learn everything!

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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@Anyone - Could I make my own bottled washes just using RMS and distilled water, or is ink + matte medium + water + flow aid pretty much the standard recipe? Do the three Reaper inks have flow aid in them already like their regular paints? What is it that the matte medium does for the wash? Is it an integral part in making the consistency of the wash correct, or is it just to keep it from getting too shiny?

 

Sorry I've got so many questions, I'm starting from zero and having to learn everything!

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

 

Everyone* has a standard recipe. Every standard recipe is different. ^_^

 

When you add water to acrylic paint, you dilute the acrylic binder that holds the pigment in place after the paint dries. Do too much of that and you get chalkiness and poor adhesion. Gloss medium is clear acrylic binder and solvents to keep it from hardening in the bottle. Matte medium is the same thing with a dulling agent. Adding either keeps the paint acting like paint while reducing the opacity.

 

You can wash with paint thinned with "gunk" or with paint thinned with water, or with inks, thinned or not. Each will behave differently, and you'll probably need to experiment to find the mix that works best for you, but you can start with nearly any of them.

 

I'll leave Anne (or whoever) to answer the question about the composition of the Reaper inks, as I haven't used them.

 

* Where "everyone" is to be read as everyone who builds those kinds of washes. Which is really quite a lot less than "everyone".

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Did you wash directly on the cleaned Bones, or a basecoated one first?

 

You can make your own wash ad hoc with a wet palette: one drop of matte medium, one drop of paint or ink, one drop of water (or water + flow aid). Mix together by the brushful. Control the consistency of the wash with the matte medium and water.

 

Hand Cannon has a fur tutorial: http://handcannononline.com/blog/2012/10/05/a-beginners-guide-to-painting-fur/

 

Warseer washes tutorial: http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?209588-More-fun-with-washes

 

Classic Magic Wash: http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/guestarticles/magicwash.htm

Edited by ced1106
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I'll try thinning some paint with GTM and see what it does. I did notice when I was washing out my palette that residue from my homemade washes came right out, but reside from the Reaper washes took some scrubbing to remove.

 

@ced - Those are most excellent tutorials, thank you! They've given me a lot of food for thought, I'll have to try some of those techniques in the future. And although I've typically done washes onto basecoats, I did try one of the Reaper washes straight onto the bottom of one of the bases just to see what it would do. It stuck just fine, no beading at all, so I may try that with my skeletons. I'd use GTM to thin, though, not water. :)

 

~~~~~~~

 

Rat #2 time!

 

Just the details left, no epiphanies this painting session. :) I'm going to call this one Pinky, cuz I'm super original like that. ::P:

 

I started with the eyes, using Walnut Brown, since they were so nicely outlined from the wash. I accidentally got the paint a little too high on the brush, resulting in:

 

post-11389-0-76078500-1373513652_thumb.jpg

 

Whoops. Basecoat to the rescue!

 

I also mixed up the same color I used for Stuart's teeth: 2 drops Pure White to 1 drop Yellowed Bone, I'm quite liking that color for teeth.

 

post-11389-0-43935200-1373513692_thumb.jpg

 

I decided to take a picture before adding the line between her teeth, since I didn't do that with Stuart.

 

post-11389-0-94138700-1373514002_thumb.jpg

 

My first attempt at the line resulted in the same vampire teeth Stuart started out with. I decided to include a picture this time:

 

post-11389-0-17145500-1373513907_thumb.jpg

 

Once again, when trying to fix not only the teeth and the center line, but also her chin and the sides of the teeth, I've decided that as tiny as my #30-0 is, it's simply TOO BIG for super fine detail work. Here's Pinky's teeth after her trip to the paint dentist:

 

post-11389-0-96640400-1373514104_thumb.jpg

 

Next I mixed up the same color I used on Stuart's ears, paws, tail and nose: 1 drop Fair Skin with 1 TT Blood Red. I was concerned that there wouldn't be enough differentiation between the basecoat and this color, but the wash really helped to darken the fur enough that there is somewhat of a distinction, though it ended up just looking like highlighting on the ears. My camera didn't really capture it very well. Pardon the cardboard box, I'm playing around with different backgrounds until I get a better one/get around to building a lightbox. The cardboard makes everything too yellow, I've decided.

 

post-11389-0-26423700-1373514275_thumb.jpg

 

I saved the feet for last, since they're quite a bit harder than the tail and ears, even the nose is easier. I was also concerned that I'd mess up the ones sitting on the base, since I did NOT want to mix up the horrendous mess of paint I did for the original base color (it involved 6 different paint colors :P ). Of course I ended up messing up the toes on one foot quite badly, so I grumbled to myself and decided to try and mix a reasonably close color.

 

I started with 1 drop each of Dusky Skin and Muddy Brown, then added another drop of Dusky Skin to make it more gray. I held the toothpick I used for mixing next to the base to check, and it was actually pretty close. But it was definitely missing the slight metallic sheen of the original color. 1 drop of Honed Steel fixed that, and when I color-tested it on the bottom of the base, it blended right in once it dried. Success!!

 

After tidying up the toes and around her tail, Pinky is done! The first picture cracks me up, it looks like she's asking for a manicure, not like she's about to attack somebody. :lol:

 

post-11389-0-38860500-1373515310_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-42455900-1373515322_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-11840100-1373515334_thumb.jpg

 

So far it's still looking like the towel is the best background I have, color-wise. My camera just loves to focus on the towel's texture instead of my mini, though, so I'll try to find a pale green piece of paper at the local craft store.

 

Yay! One more down, 10...more to go. :wacko: Things will continue to speed up, though, as I get more and more familiar with these sculpts and my techniques for dealing with each part of them. My WIP posts will probably also get shorter as I start leaving out or combining pictures of each step, since a lot of it will be repeats, like the mouth and ears/tail/paws.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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