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OneBoot's Bones 1 Kickstarter Figures WIP (picture heavy)


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Download gimp it's free (think slender troll got me into it) adjust contrast & brightness (as stated above) and try put that last shot through it. I think it will turn out pretty good.

 

Also they say that a small light box can cause more problems then fix them so I use a shoebox with sides and top cut out and light with $10 lamps either side and just my kitchen table light from above. I use these settings 1/30 f11 ISO 400 & no flash on a SLR. For WIP and learning it shows a decent shot, for a really good shot we will need a nice architecture lamp from above.

 

Milk bottle is a great idea!!

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Alright, alright, I suppose I'll give GIMP a try, since four different people have recommended it to me now. :) I'm more than likely going to be using it only for the "show-off" pics because I don't have the time to do that for every pic I take, since my WIP's tend to be picture-heavy. I like quick and simple, and when I can snap a pic, plug in my camera, pull the pic out and throw it into my WIP thread in less than three minutes, it makes things much faster. But, that's my own personal preference. ^_^

 

I won't be showing any more rats here unless something awful or awesome happens that needs sharing, since a WIP of the same sculpt 12 times in a row is probably unnecessary.

 

I'm getting bored with painting simple sculpts, so I issued myself a challenge!

 

post-11389-0-35387800-1377841996_thumb.jpg

 

I've never been much into sci fi, particularly stuff that involves troops, so this lady will be a neat learning experience.

 

To increase the difficulty level of the challenge, I will use only the paints pictured here:

 

post-11389-0-39133700-1377842124_thumb.jpg

 

If I want more colors, I'm gonna have to mix them. I had to do that for my first mini, and boy did I get creative. It also helped me learn about how different colors react with each other when mixed.

 

To make things even more interesting, I'm going to be attempting the following for the very first time:

1) Higher highlights

2) Blacklining (now that I know how to do it properly)

3) Using thinned paint

4) Possibly wet blending, though it's a big maybe

5) Using my W&N almost exclusively

 

I think that's plenty to go off of for now. ^_^

 

The awesome thing about this mini is that the likelihood of her being used for a game is extremely slim, so I can relax and just have fun and not be worried if I mess up. I've been so nervous to attempt anything very complex that we actually need for our current game because if I mess up, I can't just shove it in a box somewhere. Also, I really want to do our PC minis justice, and I think this mini will help get me over that fear of failure hurdle.

 

Before I even trimmed the mold lines from her (I'm calling her Tanya, since that's the first name that randomly popped into my head), I decided to do some SCIENCE and figure out what to use as a "primer" coat, since my Walnut Brown has given me trouble in the past. I took 4 sprues, scrubbed and rinsed them well, and painted them as follows, from left to right:

 

post-11389-0-22861000-1377842770_thumb.jpg

 

Soft Blue over undiluted Brown Wash (the P stands for paint on top...yes, that's the letter P)

Undiluted Brown Wash

1 layer Soft Blue (next to the 1)

2 layers Soft Blue (...next to the 2)

1 layer Soft Blue with 1 layer undiluted Brown Wash over the top (next to the W)

 

post-11389-0-79064700-1377843028_thumb.jpg

 

See above, only with Peacock Green.

 

post-11389-0-04654000-1377843166_thumb.jpg

 

Same as the first, with Pure White.

 

post-11389-0-24173700-1377843150_thumb.jpg

 

Same, with Walnut Brown on the top sprue, and Pure Black on the bottom sprue.

 

I let these sit for several hours while I trimmed the mold lines, scrubbed her, and did some real life stuffs. I then did a scratch test on each portion of each sprue. I'll only show one pic as an example.

 

post-11389-0-68281900-1377843310_thumb.jpg

 

Towards the top of each section, I scratched lightly with my fingernail. Towards the bottom, I scratched very firmly. Across the board, the single layer of paint didn't stand up to even light scratching. The double layer of paint on the Soft Blue and White were fine with hard scratching, but the rest were not. Paint over the wash was a mixed bag, but overall performed better than straight paint, whereas paint with the wash over it stood up to even hard scratching on all but the Walnut Brown and Pure Black. Pure White performed the best by far, with Walnut Brown and Pure Black performing the worst. Soft Blue did surprisingly well also, but I think it's a bit thicker than the Peacock Green which may have affected the results.

 

So, it looks like Pure White with a Brown Wash over it is the winner!

 

Before I could get started painting Tanya, though, the mail came, and with it came THIS:

 

post-11389-0-66685500-1377843834_thumb.jpg

 

My magnifier visor is finally here, huzzah and happy day! :bday:

 

This thing is SO COOL, I can actually SEE all the tiny details that I could only sort of guess at before. This will make painting and removing mold lines SOOO much easier! It's going to take some getting used to, though, to figure out what the optimal focal length is, as well as adjusting to all the weight on the front of my head (it's not exactly light). Oh, speaking of light:

 

post-11389-0-13987000-1377844119_thumb.jpg

 

So awesome.

 

Next post, I'm gonna start doing actual painting! :D

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

 

EDIT: Something I meant to do but forgot was to twist the heck out of each of the sprues and see how the paint/wash combinations react (or don't). I'll do that and list my findings in the next post)

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GIMP is definitely for show off pics, not WIP pics. I only take that extra step when A) I'm submitting finished photos to CMON for voting, or B) I need a better representation of my mini to explain some feature and elicit proper feedback. Most of my WIP photos are taken straight off of my phone, bluish color shift intact.

 

I have had a lot of fun with the IMEF marines, so I'm curious to see how you handle the Nova troopers.

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Short update, since I've got job hunting and apartment cleaning to do today. :P

 

EDIT: Results of the sprue stress tests: I bent each sprue back and forth several times and twisted them into corkscrews several times as well. The Soft Blue and Peacock Green both held up perfectly, as well as, surprisingly, the Walnut Brown. Pure White had some cracking issues near the center of the sprue, and Pure Black did not hold up well at ALL; it started cracking and flaking only a few bends and twists into the testing.

 

post-11389-0-26501400-1377890086_thumb.jpg

 

I "primed" Tanya with 2 layers of Pure White, and I'm amazed at how much my magnivisor helped. The light was especially helpful, since Bonesium almost glows under it, while the paint looked decidedly different, which made it so much easier to find the spots that I'd missed. I forgot to take a picture, but since not much has outwardly changed yet, you really aren't missing much. ^_^

 

Next I went over her with Brown Wash, using a synthetic very similar in size and shape to my W&N. Since I've only washed over fairly smooth surfaces up to now, I wasn't prepared for the BUBBLES I kept getting. I tried using more wash on the brush, less wash, painting slower, painting faster, nothing helped. It wasn't until I was about 3/4 of the way through that I tried doing smaller, gentler strokes, which really cut down on the bubbles a LOT. I also forced myself to slow waaaay down and do much smaller sections at a time, as well as keeping the brush well-loaded with the Wash, which also helped. I had a small, clean brush nearby that I used to pop or push out of the way the more stubborn bubbles.

 

I also had to keep fighting with my magnivisor, as it kept sliding down rather painfully onto my nose, and from there down onto my neck. I've tightened up the headband, but I think I'll need to find some sort of thin, non-slip rubber something to glue to the inside of the headband. The visor was super cheap, so it's not the greatest, but it'll do for now. :)

 

Here she is, primed and ready for action!

 

post-11389-0-82838000-1377889287_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-29820600-1377889308_thumb.jpg

 

I actually think she looks pretty cool just as-is, but stopping here would defeat the purpose of my challenge. Onwaaaaaaard!

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

 

EDIT: Forgot to mention that my plan is to have darker green as the primary color for her armor stuffs, with darker blue as a supporting color. Not sure how I'm going to do that yet, but that's the plan. :D

Edited by OneBoot
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Eh, dishes can wait.

 

Next I did the blacklining. I used Pure Black instead of Walnut Brown since I wanted a harder shadow, not a soft one like I'd get with cloth. I thinned by adding 1 drop water to 2 drops Pure Black and used my W&N S7 size 1 because by golly I'm going to learn how to use a nice brush eventually! ^_^

 

This will...take some readjusting. I really liked how smoothly the paint flowed off the brush, it was more like painting with ink than paint. I also loved just how much paint this thing holds. Usually I can only get two or three strokes before having to get more paint, but I was able to paint for a surprisingly long time before needing to resupply. I will have to change the angle I usually hold my brush at, though, since this thinned paint seems to more flow out of the brush instead of off of it, but overall I can tell that thinner paint + good brush is going to be a winning combination, once I learn how to use them properly. :upside:

 

The first several lines were very rough, messy and really thick. I got a little better once I realized I was holding the brush wrong, but the lines are still pretty thick. I started with her upper thighs and ended with around her shoes and visor, which are the two areas I'm most pleased with. I'd already planned on doing a LOT of clean-up with my basecoating, so the lines WILL be getting much smaller. :)

 

That being said, as far as WHAT to blackline...I really had no idea, and still don't, actually. I probably did more than was necessary, I don't know. I pretty much just outlined everything!

 

But enough talking: (sorry, the pictures were arranged a lot better in the preview, not sure why they all stacked on top of each other in the real post)

 

post-11389-0-06822000-1377908054_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-31584300-1377908078_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-37813500-1377908096_thumb.jpg

 

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Next up will be my shade coat! I've decided to start with the shade and highlight my way up, since that feels more intuitive to me.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

Edited by OneBoot
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GIMP is definitely for show off pics, not WIP pics.

Um...yeah! :ph34r: What kind of weirdo would GIMP a WIP pic? Ok, ok. It really only takes a second to auto white balance/crop/scale a pic, and I'd have to scale and crop it anyway to get the file size under control for the web....Also, GIMP's auto white balance only really works well if you have white in the picture. The best thing is to get a regular setup for pics with the same temp lights every time, then use a sheet of white paper to set your camera's white balance to that.

 

Boot, I tend to over-dark line, but after a while you'll get a feel for where you'll need it to break up similar values or highlight details.

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It honestly takes 30 secs max to process a photo through gimp with the settings sorted. With those photos you don't need it though. Look really good.

 

Again what awesome photos your taking now, 100 x better then the wash cloth!! Can I ask how much you visor was?

 

Really great base coat! look forward to hearing more of ur w&n and black lining! Leaps and bounds!

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GIMP is definitely for show off pics, not WIP pics.

 

Um...yeah! :ph34r: What kind of weirdo would GIMP a WIP pic? Ok, ok. It really only takes a second to auto white balance/crop/scale a pic, and I'd have to scale and crop it anyway to get the file size under control for the web....Also, GIMP's auto white balance only really works well if you have white in the picture. The best thing is to get a regular setup for pics with the same temp lights every time, then use a sheet of white paper to set your camera's white balance to that.

 

Boot, I tend to over-dark line, but after a while you'll get a feel for where you'll need it to break up similar values or highlight details.

GIMP appeas very powerful, but not very intuitive. It seems more finicky than the photoshop i played with 20 years ago, but the price is right. I just use MS Picture Manager to crop the pictures and shrink the size (both WIP and finished). I only use GIMP to create collages for posting to the gallery on CMON. Once i figured out how to set my camera and set up my lights (took six months ;-)), i do not need to mess with anything else in editing software.

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Thanks guys! :blush:

 

@KruleBear - Not sure how much "finesse" you'll see in my work on this figure, lol. Thinned paint behaves very differently, and I'm learning as I go. I forsee many paint floods on Tanya in my near future. ^_^

 

@Corporea - I'm glad you like it! :D

 

@Shogun - I agree, these do look sooo much better; it's amazing what a good backdrop can do! The visor was http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UCODIA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1'>this one and I paid about $8 (US) for it. Granted, I got free shipping on it through Amazon because I'm an Amazon Prime member, but regardless it's much much cheaper than a $60 Optivisor (which I'd like to get someday, the quality of the lenses in the one I have leaves something to be desired).

 

~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Not much in the way of painting to report, since I've found I get way too distracted during Pathfinder when I'm doing anything complicated, but I did get a "primer" coat of 2 layers Pure White on the PC wizard mini (his name Aerodus)).

 

post-11389-0-97429200-1377989981_thumb.jpg

 

I'd fixed his staff earlier to repair the big chunk missing out of it next to his hand (which appears to be part of the sculpt). Pictures of that step are here. I plan on shoving a pin into it next to straighten out that bend, I've boiled him three times already, but the thing's so skinny it just keeps re-warping.

 

post-11389-0-23531900-1377990037_thumb.jpg

 

Also, through delicate application of my Exacto knife and with the help of my magnivisor, I was able to carve the remnants of the shield on Etune's left arm into some semblance of a bracer (thanks again for the idea, Loim!!!). Yay! The back of it needs something, I think, but I'm not sure what. I'm going to check out pictures of real bracers to try and get some ideas.

 

post-11389-0-15523900-1377990317_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-77400700-1377990365_thumb.jpg

 

post-11389-0-90839400-1377990380_thumb.jpg

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

Edited by OneBoot
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Insomnia struck again, so I touched up a few places on Tanya that I'd missed in my blacklining frenzy. I also contemplated the next step in Etune's conversion, namely removing the sword from the kobold and transferring it to her hand. My plan is to slice the sword off above and below the kobold's hand, then superglue the bits in the appropriate spots on her hand (I still want to have a usable kobold mini after this).

 

My question is this: For those of you who've done modifications before, will pinning through her hand be required for keeping the sword together on Etune? Or can I really just glue the top and bottom of the sword onto her hand and call it good? Note: this is a mini that will see use as a gaming piece.

 

Reference picture just for fun:

 

post-11389-0-20082700-1378026703_thumb.jpg

 

And here's a decent "preview" of what I'm hoping it will look like when I'm all done. I accomplished this by holding the kobold directly behind Etune, which is how I discovered that the scale on the kobold's sword was perfect for what I had in mind. Seriously, their hands are practically identical in size and shape. If it weren't for the "bracer" on Etune's arm, I'd have simply swapped hands on them and patched up the seams with Apoxie. :)

 

post-11389-0-06631500-1378026776_thumb.jpg

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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