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Thoughts on painting the red / green figures?


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I apologize for the graininess of the background, as I had to turn off all the lights in the room for the illumination to show up in a photo (even though I could clearly see it lighting up with my OWN EYES), but here's an experiment with the Large Fire Elemental, 3 white LEDs, and a small parabolic mirror to focus them upward, shining underneath the base of the figure.

 

2013-07-17-reaper-bones-77082-large-fire

 

I'm thinking of rigging up a lighting fixture with a gimmicky Halloween prop that has a few LEDs fixed up to a central battery-holder; I just need to construct a thick enough base to house it (and then decorate the base appropriately -- perhaps to look like crackling lava, etc.), and still manage to have some practical way to turn it on/off and access the battery for replacement.

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This is the method I used for painting it up (step by step):   1) put black down as the base color for the ground, the sword, and the tombstone (be very careful, as I came very close to over brushin

Well, I decided to play around with Magic Wash (2 parts water, 1 part Future Shine floor wax, color to taste) and the results were... great.   Fire is lighter on the INSIDE, so just inking it with a

Here's my wraith:  

Has anyone had any luck adding definition to the details of these without covering up the translucency? I'm seeing some amazing pieces here, but [aside from Jordan's lit fire el], nothing that couldn't be done in white bones. What made these so cool for me is that you can see through them. I'd love to add some definition to them without ruining that effect.

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Foxden, that's the reason I did mine the way I did, to try to keep a fair amount of the translucency showing through. The wash that I did doesn't eliminate the translucent effect, it just darkens it a little bit in the recesses. Then, the drybrushing is done lightly, only hitting the raised areas. If you look closely at the difference between the picture with the white box underneath, you'll see that the green is lighter, because the white is showing through, and when I put it on my desk with the dark brown behind it, it darkened up a bit. I'm sure if you don't want to do the wash, and you go with just doing some drybrushing over the raised areas, you could get a similar result, the only difference would be that there wouldn't be much contrast between the lower, undrybrushed area, and the drybrush.

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Well, I decided to play around with Magic Wash (2 parts water, 1 part Future Shine floor wax, color to taste) and the results were... great.

 

Fire is lighter on the INSIDE, so just inking it with a darker color would be a nono; at first I tried a yellow, but that didn't show, so I decided to do white then yellow and the result was about 20-30 minutes of work for these:

 

bones-elemental-firelarge_zps85c3b042.jp

 

 

 

Now, at first I thought I'd treat the ghosts different with a dark green wash - but that looked dull and boring, so I decided to just try the white wash I made and... wow.

 

bones-ghosts-wraith_zps4183cdc7.jpg

 

 

 

bones-ghosts-banshee_zpsd9ded747.jpg

 

i tried a red-eye effect with the banshee and it failed pretty hard; I thought I fixed it but I guess not.

 

Once again, I'd like to repeat: I did all of these with about 30 minutes of work. Not counting drying time, though.

 

I noted that on my floor it looks great ... for a few days ... then the dirt seems to stick to it.  I'm guessing this will be true when handling minis with Pledge.  On the Pledge bottle it notes that one should remove it like once a year with ammonia, because of the build up.  I prefer something with a harder, more permanent finish for my minis.

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I just gave mine a drybrushing of a complimentary color and they came out great. I found that provided all the contrast I needed without blocking the translucency. Basing, on the other hand, has proven more difficult. I haven't found a way to get the well for the water weird to block light coming up through the piece. I'm wondering if a base coat of a reflective paint will help with future projects.

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I had great luck with Tamiya X19 - Smoke.  It's a thick (like syrup) acrylic wash that has a slight sweet smell to it, and it went on fantastic with no priming or pretreatment at all.  For these two figs, I just painted the base, then applied the wash.  It doesn't interact with the hydrophobic bones material like I was worried it might - it went on great.  

 

If you're a speed painter (and after you get a KS worth of these things, are there any other types of painters out there?), I highly recommend that Tamiya X19 wash.  I've not tried their other washes, but now I'm inclined to.  I also haven't tried it on the Bones white plastic, but I bet it would look pretty cool - maybe on one of the skeletons or something? 

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I had great luck with Tamiya X19 - Smoke.  It's a thick (like syrup) acrylic wash that has a slight sweet smell to it, and it went on fantastic with no priming or pretreatment at all.  For these two figs, I just painted the base, then applied the wash.  It doesn't interact with the hydrophobic bones material like I was worried it might - it went on great.  

 

If you're a speed painter (and after you get a KS worth of these things, are there any other types of painters out there?), I highly recommend that Tamiya X19 wash.  I've not tried their other washes, but now I'm inclined to.  I also haven't tried it on the Bones white plastic, but I bet it would look pretty cool - maybe on one of the skeletons or something? 

 

 

 

How is your opacity on the bases? I had thought about putting an LED into the bottom of some of my translucent figs, but the light shines through even the layered paint on the bases.

 

Edit: Whoops. Forgot I was the last poster before you.

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It's worth noting that the Tamiya Clear range aren't really washes per say - they're translucent paints that are quite thick in consistency.

But they're absolutely my favorite paint to use where translucency is called for.

The sweet smell is because they have an alcohol base - I use Tamiya Thinner to dilute it down to create differences in shade and also to make it easier to work with. Inks can be used sparingly to provide definition.

 

As to using them over plain white Bonesâ„¢ - yes, that should work.  Back a few decades, one of my 'tricks' for reasonable quality figures in a hurry was to use the Clear Smoke paint over bare metal for fast painting armor.  Gave an interesting lacquered metallic look, and took no time at all.  In principle, the same thing should hold for Bones except that the base is of course white rather than metallic.  

 

Personally, if I was looking at doing the skellingtons this way I'd do a light wash of RMS Brown Liner across the definition points of the skellington first before hitting them with the Tamiya Clear Yellow.  It would produce a very glossy looking figure out of the gate, but it'd probably read as slime or ichor especially if you painted the weapons / any clothing normally.

 

Also, there's been a fair bit of discussion around the Tamiya Clear paints on the translucent Bonesâ„¢ on this forum.  Have some links!

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/60370-show-me-your-painted-clear-bones

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/60116-tamiya-clears-alcohol-based-and-natural-hair-brushes

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/59416-clears-translucents-inks-comparison

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/51660-painting-bones-ghosts-and-elementals

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/50338-transparent-bones-blood-with-tamiya-clear-colors

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