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Removing Paint and/or Primer?

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I'm sorry if this has been asked a million times. I perused the Search and the first couple pages of the forum and didn't see anything. That said:

 

I've been working on Learn to Paint Kits 1&2. I think I made an "okay" soldier from LP1. But I've been struggling with faces and blending from LP2. Is there anyway to strip the paint and start over without damaging the miniatures?

 

I could buy the figures over, but that seems like overkill considering the point is to learn!

 

Thank you very much for your help.

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Most people around here drop their minis in a jar of Simple Green (all-purpose cleaner, available at hardware and auto supply stores) for a day or so, then scrub lightly under running water.

 

I used to do similar with rubbing alcohol, but I find the Simple Green solution more eco-friendly so I'm going to try it next time.

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Most people around here drop their minis in a jar of Simple Green (all-purpose cleaner, available at hardware and auto supply stores) for a day or so, then scrub lightly under running water.

 

I used to do similar with rubbing alcohol, but I find the Simple Green solution more eco-friendly so I'm going to try it next time.

It's also easier on your skin. I use a nylon paint stripping brush and then an electric tooth brush to get the fidly bits out.

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If you happen to have an ultrasonic cleaner, they can work wonders for stripping paint. I've stripped enough figures (many bought at auctions or conventions with partial, or bad, or bad partial paint jobs) that I found it worthwhile to just buy a cheap cleaner. If you're only doing them occasionally and one at a time, they're not worth the trouble, though.

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I'd also like to encourage you to avoid stripping *some* of your miniatures that you otherwise intend on stripping.

 

It's a very useful tool / illustration to save a few of them as milestones of personal progress. They also give future instructors ideas about how to help you improve next as the collection will demonstrate trends in painting habits.

 

Of course, budget and personal learning style can influence your choice about whether or not you really do this, but do consider it.

 

Regards,

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Thank you very much for the info! I'll grab some Simple Green today! I think I'll leave the soldier as evidence of progress. That's a really good idea. Also I enjoyed painting that one, so it will be fun to get more of that type to repeat the lesson.

 

I noticed the pinned topic when coming to check this one, too. So sorry I missed that!

 

Have an excellent day!

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Note on the Pinesol - it has to be "original" flavor, not the purple or other stuff. My understanding is that the active ingredient for original stuff is (appropriately) pine oil, which is pretty good at loosening paint. I believe the purple pinesol does not have pine oil.

 

I discovered that bead blasting also works exceedingly well. This isn't something that's convenient, as you need a bead blaster, and that's not something someone gets trivially. I don't own one, but my father does, so a sixty mile drive can get me this cool toy to play with.

 

I've humored starting a 'Miniature Restoration Service' with this thing. :bday:

 

Notes and pictures on bead blasting here:

 

http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?52224

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It depends on the grit and the pressure.

 

You can see from the dragon that it really worked pretty darn well.

 

I also blasted this Otherworld Otyugh just to 'clean him up' before painting, and it seems like he did fine after I painted him. No textural damage that I can see. I've yet to paint that dragon (I need to).

 

otyugh.jpg

 

Now - I'm not sure how this would work on Bones figurines. But metal seems to handle it just fine.

Edited by Flow
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Do you stick SG in your sonic cleaner or does that make it foam up?

 

I usually dunk the figures in a Simple Green solution and leave them for several hours. Then I just pour everything into the cleaner.and run it a few times. Then remove the figures one at a time and brush them with a toothbrush. Most figures come out of that looking almost like they came out of the blister. If there's an especially heavy coat of old enamel, I'll run the figure twice.

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I used Simple Green. I left them in it for probably a little over 24 hours. I ended up getting side tracked by a million other things (go figure). Anyway! It worked like a charm. I used a toothbrush and water to get them clean. Now it's time to try L2P1 and L2P2 over again!

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