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[Group/Open] WIP Orcpocalypse

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http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/weapons/sku-down/03560 These are pretty large, if you recognise the Reptus Breaker club, there, it's a pretty big 2-hander.


http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/weapons/sku-down/P14235C Again, these are for Reptus so they're bigger than human-sized 1-H swords, and suitably vicious.


http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/weapons/sku-down/P14263A These are intended as 2-handed weapons.



http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Conversions/sku-down/03076 Spiked chains and accessories! 1 size fits most!


Well, that quickly escalated from picking up a few weapons, to checking out a few triads, to "why is my cart total $100 ? "

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trystangst: Beautiful work so far. I love your style and approach to flesh (not just here, on all of the minis you've posted in your WIP thread as well). It's exactly where I want my skin tones/shading to be. I plan to use your photos heavily as inspiration/guidance on future models I paint skin on.


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@Trystan - Skin tone is looking great and the face. I'm going to go back to the drawing board with my mouths I think I made them too red. I like the darker mouths. Looking forward to seeing your take on this.


@Shogun - I think I am falling in Love with Tre Manor.

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Looks like holding off on the skin was the right decision. It works much better with the colors around it.



The hides are the same basic recipe I used on Darkrasp, and the fur is just P3 Ironhull Grey basecoat, liberal application of GW Nuln Oil, then re-apply Ironhull via drybrushing. Follow that with GW Codex Grey and GW Ulthuan Grey in smaller areas as a drybrush too.


The black is an undercoating for dull metal.

The sleeves of his shirt will be red, the epaulets will be leather trimmed in gold, and the axe and shield will bring up the rear.

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Now I remember why I tend to prefer NMM. Metallic paints are their own beast, AND they don't photograph well.

Not horribly pleased with the metals overall, but I'm not going to labor over it. Onward and upward. Kav here needs to be finished so I can unleash him on the other painted Bones.



Metals were undecoated black, then basecoated GW Chainmail.

I started using a very thin P3 Sanguine Base, then added a bit of P3 Umbral Umber, then finally just Umbral Umber. It's still too red really, but meh.

I then highlighted with GW Mithril Silver, and - for the first time - actually found a use for my Vallejo Metallic Medium. I thinned it with Glaze Medium (since it's almost a paste out of the bottle) and hit the very highest spots.

I also basecoated his shirt in preparation for the red. Then it's just leather, trim, axe and shield.

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I used the following paints:


Vallejo Game color

Parasite Brown
Scarlett Red
Heavy Dark Green
Gun Metal
Hammered Copper
Dead Flesh
Pale Yellow
Pale skin tone


Vallejo Model Color
Beige Brown

Soft Blue


First pictures after I put the first paint layer on the orcs:






I must make new pictures of the Orks after using on them the washes.

Armor Wash

These are Secret Weapon Washes, but selfmade after Les' Recipe.



In the moment I have a big problem. I have a very dark green skin, but do not know which colors I should ue to make highlights on the skin. Any tips? :-)

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Have you got afew other greens? I just get my greens work out which ones are lighter and add a drop to the original green I used then after a broad highlight another drop then just the new light green, (I check if I have a even lighter one! And do the same again) otherwise add a drop of pure white or a bone color and slowly build up.


But then again I'm a average painter so take my advice with a grain of salt

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Teskal, normally I have a few of every colour to make shading easier. I'd pick up a medium green of your choice and drybrush the skin, then get a pale green to either lightly drybrush or hand-paint some highest highlights. Highest highlights would go on nose, cheekbones, tops of ears, and be thinned with water (unless you're drybrushing). I might also put a quick lick or drybrush of light green paint where the sun would make their mighty green muscles gleam, and across the knuckles. Those highlights will help keep the miniature from getting too muddy looking when the wash goes on.

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