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ub3r's WIP's and Workbench!

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EDITED (7/8/14):

 

To add a TOC for my WIP/Show-offs as a few others have done thus far.

 

Everything from 2013 is in my Consolidated Show-Off thread. In 2014, I will be doing single show-off threads for my figures so that I can tag them properly and keep this index on-going so that I can track my own progress.

 

2012/2013 -

 

 

2014 -

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Original first post moved down to top of post #5, making this area my Table of Contents.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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Yeah, it would not make much sense. His tail should be under the cloak and coming sideways out of it, or between his legs.

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Perhaps adding a split to the lower portion of the cloak, like the Lizard's lab coat sometimes is.

 

I like the tail itself though. Good start. Keep it going.

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Moved first post down here in the spoiler so that my first post is actually my Table of Contents.

 

 

I figured since I started painting up my bones now to start my own WIP to document what I've done so far. I'm a newbie painter and have been reading the forums and doing the LTPK's as practice. So far I've completed a grand total of 5 minis.

 

Currently I'm working on painting 5 figures for my Pathfinder group for their evil PC's. I've got one done already and am probably 80% done with the second one. I'll have to get a picture of the done one and add it to the thread later since I forgot to take it.

 

The one below is the Mason Thornwarden Ranger, which I'm converting over to be a Vanaran Zen Archer. If you aren't familiar with with a Vanaran is, they are basically monkey-men like in Planet of the Apes. So with this mini being the closest I have on hand I set to work trying to make him look "monkey-like." I've added a tail which I pinned through the back of his cloak and into his body and then covered with green stuff which I left to harden last night before going to bed.

 

post-7987-0-06258700-1401993541_thumb.jpg

 

post-7987-0-58998600-1401993541_thumb.jpg

 

As a bones figure I washed him off with warm water and dish soap as people have said we should do here on the forums.

 

His colors I wanted to be darker and more "stealthy" as he is an assassin and likes to take things out from hiding basically snipe from the distance.

 

So I made his cloak pure black and used nightmare black to do some highlights which I think I need to go over again as they aren't very light in comparison. His leggings are rainy grey mixed with a drop of pure black to make a darker grey then highlighted with vampiric highlights, which I think turned out okay. His red jerkin is the deep red I think it was called splattered crimson, mixed with a drop of pure black and then highlighted with gory red. Again I think I need to go over this a bit more. I used tanned skin for his skin on his face, hands, and arrow shafts. Then I used russet brown (I think it was) on to give him hair on his hands, the beard around his face, his quiver, and bow. For the bow's handle I used mahogany, which seems like it's pretty dang close to the dark red I created for his leather jerkin and archer's bracer.

 

Anyhow, C&C are welcome as I'll be working on him some more tonight and I'll post the pics of the finished mini I have later and continue to post as I complete and work on the other minis for the PC's.

 

Thanks for reading the huge block of text!

 

 

 

@ObsidianCrane - I did it this way so we could see the tail and it quite frankly was the easiest of my options and the first time I've ever actually tried to pin anything to a mini. I figured that we'd just say that the cloak was specially made for the tail hole as the PC has the racial feats to be able to use his tail in almost hand-like ways.

 

@Teskal - I thought of that too, but couldn't figure out with a figure this tiny how to get the pinning done right so that it'd look natural.

 

@Thrym - Thanks for the complement. That split might be the best idea yet. I hadn't thought of that and it'd be a bit more realistic than the custom tail hole in the cloak, my only worry is that if I split it all the way up the tail would become weakened and might fall off the mini if bumped. I'll have to think on this a bit more.

 

I don't know if I'm happy with the colors on him and actually dreamed about this mini the other night. I might reverse the black and grey colors around so that his cloak is a grey color and his grey pants/long sleeves are black. I'd be happy to get any other suggestions on colors that could go with an assassin zen archer though as I got busy this weekend and didn't get around to touching him again. I think I'll have time tonight to do some painting though.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd

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@Thrym - Thanks for the complement. That split might be the best idea yet. I hadn't thought of that and it'd be a bit more realistic than the custom tail hole in the cloak, my only worry is that if I split it all the way up the tail would become weakened and might fall off the mini if bumped. I'll have to think on this a bit more.

 

Is the tail glued to the back of the cloak or did you actually put a hole in to attach it?

 

If the latter, then you should be anchored solidly. If not then perhaps disassembling the tail from the cloak and pinning through into the mini.

 

If you already pinned it, the cut out in the cloak under the tail should be fine. The torn cloak could still "cradle" the tail to provide extra support as the rip hugs the tail since the tail would be lifting the cloak a bit.

 

Create an omega shape when you cut it. Like so:

 

post-7739-0-06047300-1375129841.jpg

 

Then with some green stuff create a curl from the torn cloak edges and that will allow you to sculpt in some more support.

 

 

I'm sure that made no sense because it's Monday and tired. So feel free to PM me about it.

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@Thrym - Thanks for the complement. That split might be the best idea yet. I hadn't thought of that and it'd be a bit more realistic than the custom tail hole in the cloak, my only worry is that if I split it all the way up the tail would become weakened and might fall off the mini if bumped. I'll have to think on this a bit more.

 

Is the tail glued to the back of the cloak or did you actually put a hole in to attach it?

 

If the latter, then you should be anchored solidly. If not then perhaps disassembling the tail from the cloak and pinning through into the mini.

 

If you already pinned it, the cut out in the cloak under the tail should be fine. The torn cloak could still "cradle" the tail to provide extra support as the rip hugs the tail since the tail would be lifting the cloak a bit.

 

Create an omega shape when you cut it. Like so:

 

attachicon.gifomega_cut.jpg

 

Then with some green stuff create a curl from the torn cloak edges and that will allow you to sculpt in some more support.

 

 

I'm sure that made no sense because it's Monday and tired. So feel free to PM me about it.

 

I drilled a small hole through the cloak and a little ways into the body of the mini, then I took a little bit of superglue and put it on the copper wire I used to pin and placed it into the hole, after that I took some green stuff and covered the wire to give it the look I wanted.

 

I think I understand what you mean with your explanation of the omega shaped cut. I'll look into trying that tonight when I get home.

 

How big of a cut would you say that I need to do on this fig? Does the circular portion of the cut go above where I have the tail pinned?

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I drilled a small hole through the cloak and a little ways into the body of the mini, then I took a little bit of superglue and put it on the copper wire I used to pin and placed it into the hole, after that I took some green stuff and covered the wire to give it the look I wanted.

 

I think I understand what you mean with your explanation of the omega shaped cut. I'll look into trying that tonight when I get home.

 

How big of a cut would you say that I need to do on this fig? Does the circular portion of the cut go above where I have the tail pinned?

 

The larger hole implied that you're insetting the whole end of the tail into the figure. Which would with your pin create the most stability for the figure.

 

However, with the green stuff and pin in place, then I would notch out from under the tail like the omega shows ... then buildup the cut cloak ends to create a flowing ragged ripped section. That should give you extra stability on the join with the added green stuff under the tail.

 

post-7739-0-84512600-1375153493.jpg

Remove the Yellow and add the green. Building up under the tail a bit.

 

Obviously you want to ragged the green stuff cloak edges. You might even borrow the shape from the vampire's cloak in the KS.

 

77160_w_1.jpg

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@Thrym - Wow, thanks so much for the information. I repainted him last night because I didn't like the colors the way they were (Cloak to stone grey and the paints/long sleeves to pure black) so tonight I can try the cut-out and green stuff as you suggested above.

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The tail idea is very cool! Are these monkey-people human faced? Replacing the head with that of the monkey and sculpting a hood over it (very easy to do, actually) would look soooo cool ::D:

 

Seeing your paintjob reminds me of my old days. Keep at it, the painting could use sharper lines but instructing your hand to do so is really a training... I know about that :rolleyes:

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The tail idea is very cool! Are these monkey-people human faced? Replacing the head with that of the monkey and sculpting a hood over it (very easy to do, actually) would look soooo cool ::D:

 

Seeing your paintjob reminds me of my old days. Keep at it, the painting could use sharper lines but instructing your hand to do so is really a training... I know about that :rolleyes:

 

Thanks! I thought he'd make the best to represent a zen archer who is a Vanara, think planet of the apes monkey-man.

 

Unfortunately I don't have any real monkeys available to replace the head on him with so I'm just trying to paint him up to look more monkeyish with the beard, but maybe I could sculpt a mask that covers his mouth/nose and only leave his eyes showing and then it'd be less obvious that the figure is a man.

 

Yeah, I'm slowly getting the hang of it and finding out which brushes I like to work with best. I saw some spots after taking the pic that I missed so after I repainted his colors (which I did last night) I'll be doing highlights and try to clean him up even more. I'm shooting for good table-top quality since the first few I kick out will really be for my group's PC's.

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Unfortunately I don't have any real monkeys available to replace the head on him with so I'm just trying to paint him up to look more monkeyish with the beard, but maybe I could sculpt a mask that covers his mouth/nose and only leave his eyes showing and then it'd be less obvious that the figure is a man.

 

Mmm... if you are confortable with Greenstuff and trying, you could add a big-ish (for the little face, at least) oval between the beard and nose, and split it horizontally to look more monkey-like. And/or a little simpler, you can add volume to the craneal area above the eye sockets (think neathertal). That way the face would look a lot more monkey-like :)

 

monkey-face08.jpg

 

See what I am talking about? Bigger moth area, smaller eyes are the trademark of our simian cousins :)

 

 

Yeah, I'm slowly getting the hang of it and finding out which brushes I like to work with best. I saw some spots after taking the pic that I missed so after I repainted his colors (which I did last night) I'll be doing highlights and try to clean him up even more. I'm shooting for good table-top quality since the first few I kick out will really be for my group's PC's.

 

 

 

I had a lot (and I mean a lot) of trouble doing tidy lines at the beginning. My hands used to shake like crazy. I learned to paint bracing both arms and with the side of the brush in a single sweeping motion. Perhaps you can try that and see if it helps doing clean borders... I usually go back and forth with the two neighbouring colors (used to, now I can avoid it most of the time) until I achieve a clean separation.

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@Willen - Good stuff. A quick question regarding green stuff. I noticed that it is REALLY sticky and kind of hard to work with, how do people usually compensate for the tackiness of it so that they can work with it and do the things that you are talking about like the brow ridge and the bigger mouth? I'm going to have to do some really tiny alterations there since this mini's face is especially small and thin inside that hood of his (which is why I thought maybe of doing a mask/veil kind of thing instead).

 

As far as tidy lines go, I think I'm starting to do better. The pics above were the first few coats and I've since repainted him and need to clean them up again and do some highlights. I'm not super concerned with it being perfect since it is a table top piece rather than for competition or for show, I'm sure it'll get beat up a little bit.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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I was used to work with some cheap epoxy putty that I could find in Argentina; it was not until a few months ago that I bought GS during a trip to Spain and started working on it.

 

It is definitely tacky and more "gummy" that what I was used to. To prevent it to stick to your tools and fingers you need to keep everything lubricated all the time. Water works, spit does as well (but beware, it is not food!) and I heard vaseline is perfect. I use water and although it requires dipping the tools every few seconds it works, since the GS does not absorb it nor break down (as opposed to Milliput, for example).

 

The gummy-ness can work in your favour, because GS stretches. No way around it. I recall reading about boiling it for a minute in a microwave (let the recently mixed ball into a container full of water and microwave it for a minute) to soften it more, but haven't tried and am not sure it would actually work... I am just learning to use GS :upside:

 

As far as how to do what I suggested:

 

- For the mouth: I would do a small ball of GS and stick in right above the beard, and below the nose. Push it flat-ish against the face. Trim, push and pull to get an oval sitting on the side. Then gently mark it in vertical lines, barely pushing on the surface (to create the creases you see in monkey skin). Then cut it with a knife (xacto or a modelling putty knife) along what would make the opening of the mouth. Insert a flat tool and open, this motion will also create the "lips". Play with it :upside:

- For the ridges, I would roll up a small, thin strip of GS and apply as if I was sculpting super thick eyebrows. Use your tools to push/pull this into the forehead, to blend it in. Let is sit if you achieve a good shape and when cured add more to smooth it out.

 

It usually pays to be patient and build gradually. But I am sure you can pull it off!

 

Edit: You can get Milliput, which is much softer to sculpt on in my experience. Up to now, working with GS for me is like re-learning the craft... in a sense, it is like convincing my wife of something: sometimes to need to pull when you want to push, etc.

Edited by Willen
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Cool, thanks a lot @Willen! I'll definitely try doing that stuff tonight. I also have milliput, so I'll have to decide which putty to use and just practice with it and try to get it to work how I want it to. I'll post final pictures of this mini probably tomorrow.

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