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Thanks for linking, though that breaks for me. (Looks like there is a space that doesn't belong). I really should do a second one that answers these questions better.


What Rules to buy?

Both rulebooks have all the rules in them, so that needs not affect your choice, instead the army lists should determine your choice.


Warlord 2E offers;

Crusaders: paladins & angels

Dwarves: well they are dwarves

Elves: high elves

Nefsokar: mummies, desert raiders and Egyptian mythology

Reven: orcs, gnolls and other evil humanoids

Reptus: lizardmen and other reptilian humanoids

Mercenaries: pirates, Arabian myth, vikings and others

Darkspawn: demons & evil elves (includes drider but the elves have less of a typical drow look)

Necropolis: vampires, zombies, skeletons and other undead (except mummies).

Overlords: anti-paladins ruled by a lich


Savage North offers;

Bloodstone Gnomes: crazy evil gnomes & constructs

Wood Elves of Tembrithil: elves & fey

Dark Elves of the Darkreaches: evil ice elves (with a solid drow look) & shadow demons

Dwarves of Kragmarr: dwarves with a Norse feel.

Black Orcs of Kargir: orcs & other evil humanoids.

Frost Giants of Icingstead: frost giants & cold weather human barbarians

Koborlas of the Nornwood: werewolves & similar

Sisterhood of the Blade: all female "good" humanoids and angels.


If you don't care about a faction I recomend you get Savage North just for the hardback as a more durable product that you'll want at the table all the time is a good. However while I prefer its layout I have seen reports of others finding it troublesome to read, so you may prefer the simpler clearer Warlord 2E layout.


What miniatures to buy?

For official tournaments you must use Reaper models, however you are allowed to use any Reaper model you like as long as its clear to your opponent what the model represents. This gives you a lot of options, I've started thinking of switching those Frost Giants for Fire Giants for example.


What about bases?

Unusually for a skirmish game Warlord uses square bases; 25mm, 40mm and 50mm. However if you are not planing on playing in tournaments any consistent basing size agreed on by the players will work.


What else do you need?

At least a couple of d10, up to 10d10.

An open area to play in I recomend 4'x3' as a starting point.

A cloth and some books (put the books under the cloth and have instant hills) and some other things to represent terrain like forest and water features. You can always get fancy and use actual terrain later. If you have a stash of DnD maps or dungeon tiles these will also work as well.

You also need an opponent. ;)

Edited by ObsidianCrane
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Thanks a ton for all the info guys. Ordered Savage North today and I am now anxiously awaiting it's arrival. I didn't really have a faction preference so it basically came down to the hardcover durability. I could have saved quite a bit with regular 2e but there is just something about a hardcover core rulebook.

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You'll actually find a bit of crossover between the two when it comes to the datacards; all 3 centaurs cards are found in both lists, as are the hunting cats and the faeries. The Tirithial elves are more arcane blast-em-up magic and long ranged firepower than the Tembrithil, with fast, skirmishing-style troops. The Tembrithil are more geared towards stealth, short-ranged attacks, and are more heavily oriented toward creatures of the forest.



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On 7/30/2013 at 11:08 AM, ShadowRaven said:

I am in the same basic boat, but I am most interested in elves for my starting army, so i have to ask before i buy rules. What is the difference between the high elves and the wood elves?


High Elves (it seems from the rules and the miniatures) are a cross between Warhammer Wood Elves and Warhammer High Elves.  A good mix of ranged and up close, plus magic users (mages rather than clerics, although some Elves are divine rather than magical).  I believe that most Wood Elves are more like assasins, and they sit in trees, have stealth, etc. 


As for the main poster (I know this is 7 years after the fact, and I hope you are still playing), I think the first steps to building any Warlord army is looking at the armies objectively.  Research who is in it, what are the abilities that are associated with them, how do they move, etc.  Then, pull the trigger and buy some figures.  I decided that I wanted to play Crusaders because I had bought some of the figures before and knew who they were.  So, because I painted those miniatures before, I went with what I was familiar with.  And it turns out that the Crusaders are AWESOME.  Love my guy Duke Gerard.  Also, it helps if you have friends who want to play as well, or know of players in the area and what armies they play.  Because then you can pick armies to counteract certain abilities, etc.  Also, it helps to know what point counts they normally play (typical games being 1000-1500 points), and if they are using Warlords, Captains, Sergeants, or a mix of the 3.  Since I am the first one to play this game among my friends, I picked a Warlord, Captain and Sergeant as my main force.  The Warlord has 10 units (including himself), Captain has 6 units, and Sergeant has 4 (including himself).  And, if you throw in a Solo unit or two, you should have a good 1000-1500 point army (with my Guardian Angel figure [not Uriel], I have about 1200+ points) with which to play.  And that is a Warlord, Captain, Sergeant, three solos (Garr, a solo fighter, Guardian Angel).  Hope this helps anyone who comes here looking for advice on how to start. 


Best advice: pick some armies, get some friends (or find people who play) and get out there and PLAY!!  Happy Warlord!

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