Ellyria Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) Aah!!! I got my ReaperCon 2011 Adventure Sophie! She's so pretty!!! And I'm totally freaked out I'm going to break her in the assembly process. I managed to detach and clean stray edges off all the bits. Now what? Glue first then paint or paint first then glue? What kind of glue? Super glue? Hot glue? Can I solder her? Also, one of her wing tips is bent. Can I bend it back? How fragile is her whip? *Passes out from forgetting to breathe.* Edited September 20, 2013 by Ellyria 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowRaven Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Do not try and solder. It can be done,I have seen it done, I also know people who have melted pieces of mini doing it. Superglue is the general recommended material. First thing though, take care and wash her down with soapy water. Sometimes you endup with a bit of mold release on the figure, and they won't stick. Yes you can bend it back, just take your time at it, and don't worry about the unpleasant sounds it makes when you do. I have never done this Sophie, so I can not say how fragile her whip is, but most cases, the answer is 'not very' unless you bend it a lot,or a long ways. Now, the paint then assemble vs assemble then paint debate is a long and old one, with valid reasoning on both sides. WIth a figure like Sophie, I assemble, but leave the wings off, then I paint. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellyria Posted September 20, 2013 Author Share Posted September 20, 2013 Thank you, thank you!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblyn Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 super glue + green stuff for the seams. you can bend it, do it slowly and be very carefully and delicate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inarah Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Do a dry fit to see how the pieces fit together. It should be pretty good, but if it isn't you may need to file a bit to get a good join, or take note of spots that need a little filler in the gaps. Glue one piece at a time. I don't remember how many pieces she comes in, but it's best to have stuff glued on solid and cured before you move to the next bit. I know you're excited to get her together *right now* but it's better to go slowly and let each join cure for an hour or more so you don't accidentally break it off while trying to get the next part glued. Once she's assembled you apply primer. Paint is not primer. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellyria Posted September 20, 2013 Author Share Posted September 20, 2013 I think the hardest part for me will be waiting for the primer to dry. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Goodchild Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) Now that you've cleaned the flash (extra metal on the model), mould lines, washed and primed her, be prepared to trim some more mould lines and then reprime the affected areas. Some mould lines are darned near invisible until you prime the piece after which they become glaringly obvious. This doesn't mean that you didn't do a good job the first time; second (and sometimes third) passes with the hobby knife are normal. Edited September 20, 2013 by Dan Goodchild 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellyria Posted September 20, 2013 Author Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) Good to know. Man, this is going to be an exercise in learning how not to be an impatient spaz. Do I purposefully want to keep the primer layers light then? Edited September 20, 2013 by Ellyria 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loim Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Are you using a spray primer or a brush on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimreaper71 Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Good to know. Man, this is going to be an exercise in learning how not to be an impatient spaz. Do I purposefully want to keep the primer layers light then? Hopefully that feeling never goes away. I have been doing this on and off since 1989 and I still get excited when I get a new mini and can't wait to paint. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowRaven Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 oh yes, Sophie is going to teach you patience for certain. still, I think this will be a truly rewarding venture, and I, and many others here will be more than happy to help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokingwreckage Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 If the join is gappy, you might try 2-part epoxy glue. For superglue, look for one that is suitable for porous materials or formulated for gluing unlike materials. Usually this means buying relatively expensive superglue. Zap-a-Gap is commonly used, but I have had good success with appropriate Loctite superglues, available through auto accessory stores and hardware retailers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGP Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) Also, one of her wing tips is bent. Can I bend it back? How fragile is her whip? *Passes out from forgetting to breathe.* **waits for newb to regain consciousness** Seconds Shadowraven's suggestion about painting the interior (ventral surface) of the wings before attaching. Practice bending metal before you bend the wing. You can use paperclip wire, copper wire, or the metal sprue that came with the model to practice on. It is a very good idea to get a feel for it before you work on the wing. It is a bad idea to use metal tools like needle nosed pliers to bend a white metal wing. (If you have to use a metal implement to get enough leverage wrap the wing in tape or something.) Support the metal underneath the bend. Wooden implements can help with bending (they are soft enough to not mar the mini, but hard enough to apply sufficient force) If it is a curled wing tip a dowel rod can be really useful to unbend the part using a rolling motion. Use your fingers if they are strong enough (you'll be able to feel the metal starting to 'give' before it snaps). Edited September 20, 2013 by TGP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokingwreckage Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Spray Primer: keep it thin, test first, pray primer following the directions on the can. Shake for two minutes, start each pass spraying the air near the mini and finish each pass in the air on the other side. Spray primer does not need 100% coverage to work well. Keep it thin, thick spray primer can be a disaster. If using a spray primer give it 24 hours to cure. Additional superglue note: the bond will strengthen over time. Be very gentle with it for the first 48 hours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captenglish Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) I have been painting figures since the mid 1980s and the excitement has not left. Sure I get frustrated, I have been painting the same jacket for two weeks, but at the same time my birthday and x-mas are within a week of each other, and every year about this time I start compiling a wish list! Back on topic, I have that Sophie and the whip isn't all that fragile in my experience. Reaper's metal is pretty solid, yet flexible. Edited September 20, 2013 by captenglish 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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