Kaladrax with Quickshade

[tarlen]

So I've decided I'm going to paint my Kaladrax using Quickshade. I'm sure there are a number of people out there that think this is some form of sacrilege, and part of me certainly agrees. However, I've recently been experimenting with Quickshade on bones, using my Bones minis as guinea pigs, and have decided that I really like the way it looks (see my Colossal Skeleton in the Show Off forum).

 

Cleaned and Prepared

 

Part of the decision was based on my very limited painting time, and I hope this will allow me to get it done quicker. I'm not aiming for a Buglips level of quick here, but hopefully it's not too much longer.

 

To start, I decided to try out the theory on one of the tail sections. I figured this would be one of the easier ones to strip back if I changed my mind (I've already glued the legs on).

 

Base coat - Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite

 

Quickshade Strong Tone

 

Well, I think it's going to work, so I'll keep going with this. The coloring looks better in the flesh as it were.

 

One thing I'm really not looking forward to is going over the whole thing with matte varnish. I believe I'm going to have to buy more.

 

Just to outline my full plan - I'm not going to be Quickshading the base, only the dragon itself. For the base, I intend to use the same scheme as Buglips (imitation is the sincerest form of flattery), as I really liked the way the stone/foliage colors worked together.

 

Edit: Was this a wise choice for my first WIP? Well why not.

Edited September 24, 2013 by tarlen

[trystangst]

Hey - in the end, you should be painting for yourself. Don't mind what others think about your methods, or your choices.

 

As someone who enjoys the process of painting and can take weeks (or longer) on a single mini, the idea of dipping a mini (or using quickshade as it were) is anathema to me. But as long as you like the results, you should go right ahead!

[bloodydrake]

i enjoy using quickshade on some stuff...just depends on the goal with the figure.( i just finished painting and dipping a ton of FOW figures)

For such a huge figure like Kaladrax I can certainly see the appeal.

One thing you should do tho is paint highlights on the bone extra bright so when you quickshade them they don't disappear(same affect that glazing has ).

even if your just drybrushing some highlights on the bone top areas..it will help add some more dimension to the figures.

[araziel]

Well if anyone is a prime candidate Kaladrax sure is. Quickshade works very well on boney stuff, especially strong tone, gives a nice aged skeleton bone look.

I use it for some of my stuff that I just want to finish up, like hordes of Descent minis. One very positive thing is it leaves you with a crazy strong varnish coat, so for board game minis I love it.

 

Also I don't think anyone will bother you about how you decide to paint your own Kaladrax :P

[The Inner Geek]

I think it's a great idea, though I agree with Bloodydrake that a touch of highlights before the QS might add some depth. I look forward to seeing how it turns out!

[spencerjohn]

Yeah it is a good idea, besides most people aren't art critics, they will either be "oh thats cool", or "meh".

[joshuaslater]

Army Painter quickshade is just another tool in the arsenal of miniature painting. I used to dip the whole model, but now I brush it on or use Q-tips for control. It's really like a wash and a varnish in one. I love it for gaming pieces that I know will be handled.

[Teskal]

Army Painter quickshade is just another tool in the arsenal of miniature painting. I used to dip the whole model, but now I brush it on or use Q-tips for control. It's really like a wash and a varnish in one. I love it for gaming pieces that I know will be handled.

 

Few hours ago, I wanted to write exactly the same (ok, using not the same words...). Only difference is, I nevery dipped a model. I think Q-Tips are a good idea.

 

After using QS, I think the miniature is not completed, but often in a good state of progress with an extra good protection. It is even protected if I do not paint it further for a while or already use it for gaming.

As Mr. J. said, it is a wash and varnish. After using a wash, I do not stop painting a miniature normally and after using QS I normally don't, too.

[Pixel]

I'm excited to see how this turns out!

[Bjkernow]

Watching with a tin of quick shade standing by

[ced1106]

I really liked how your Colossal Skeleton turned out. Eager to see how well K goes!

 

So how did you apply the QuickShade? This is "the dip", correct?

 

What do you use to remove the glossiness of the tail? Dullcoat?

[MonkeySloth]

I don't think quickshade is anathema, I just think that it's hard to get them to look like they have decent highlighting (though some dry brushing would fix that). But, as others have said, it's what you like that matters and lets be honest--this guy is crazy big and would be easily 6 months+ for someone to paint up at a decent level. I'm actually thinking of just turning Kally into terrain once I have room, and time, to build my own.

[SamuraiJack]

Hmm thinking I might go Soft tone.. Dark tone seems a bit darker than I might want..

[tarlen]

So how did you apply the QuickShade? This is "the dip", correct?

 

What do you use to remove the glossiness of the tail? Dullcoat?

 

I'm brushing this on. I only really dipped one or two minis when I first got the QS, but I have since learned I really prefer the control that brushing it on gives. And of course Kaladrax is so big there is no way he's going to fit in the tin!

 

I use the Vallejo Matte Varnish (brush-on again) as my preferred choice. I've had really good experiences with it, and I don't think I could easily get Dullcoat here in NZ anyway.

 

I'm using the Strong tone here, which is a lot more brown than dark tone. Never actually tried the Soft tone, except as an ink, but it seems just a little too soft for the effect I prefer. I'd like to see someone try it though.

[Last Knight]

Generally, you basecoat - dip - matte spray - and then highlight, rather than try to highlight before dipping. You also want your basecoat to be pretty bright, since the dip will bring it down.

 

I like your idea, and may go one step further on the laziness scale - I may get a can of Army Painter Skeleton Bone primer, and apply that for my basecoat. Then I would just have to paint the "guts" bits, and maybe the eyes (although they could wait until after dipping and varnishing).