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Mavame

Starting painter needing help with paints

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Hello great and wise painters,

 

I hope I can have a moment of your time for some advice on Paints.

 

About a year ago I got quite some bones from the first Kickstarter for tabletop playing. They arrived a little while ago and now I would like to paint them as well but I am new to the painting scene.

 

Currently I am in the process of picking what paint I want to use. Unfortunately the local game store mainly got GW paints and some of the Vallejo paints but no Reaper paints. So I'll be getting my paints directly from Reaper. For my initial paint selection I want about 30 paints but I have no clue which ones I will be using often, I think I saw a list somewhere but I can not find it any more. So can any one point me to this list or advice me on what paints I should get to get me started.

 

Thanks in advance!

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Welcome! There is nothing wrong with vallejo paints- I love vallejo as well as reaper, so if you want to buy a few from your local store, go right ahead! My favorites and frequently used are yellow ocher, blue green, dark gray, royal purple and yellow-green. There is a vallejo color chart here.

 

The best colors to have are partially dependent on what colors you like to use! I would say at the very least get: pure white, walnut brown to sub for black, a flesh such as tanned or fair, a yellow such as sun yellow, a blue- sapphire, green such as grass and/or olive, several browns such as intense, ruddy, palomino gold, a red such as blood and carnage or clotted red, a purple and a gray such as rainy or stone. Also if you want metallics- a gold and silver are a good choice. My other favorites that I like personally are marine teal and saffron sunset. Things I use on every miniature- flesh tones, browns, whites, walnut brown and creams.

 

The learn to paint kits are a fantastic source of paint as well! Have fun!!

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Paint Set #1 from the first kickstarter also has a pretty useful set of paints to start out with. Now obviously you didn't get that paint set originally, but it's still a useful list. (Or you could poke around on eBay and see if someone is getting rid of one.)

 

Paint Set #1 included: Blood Red, Sun Yellow, Grass Green, Sapphire Blue, Imperial Purple, Muddy Brown, Tanned Leather, Pure Black, Pure White, Tanned Skin, Fair Skin, Yellowed Bone.

 

And yeah, start with what you want to paint and the colors you need to accomplish that. If you're still not sure where to start then LTPK #1 would be a good place to get going. As a bonus, the Learn To Paint Kits are a really good value on the paints alone, since they now apparently include full bottles of each color!

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If you're comfortable mixing colors I'd probably start with the base colors, and then throw in a few triads, and a metallic or two.

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If you go to the top of this page and click on "Painting tips and advice" and then on that page click on "Custom" in the red bar just above the topics you can change the forum to show everything ever posted here. There are multiple topics about which paints to get.

 

In general you're going to want a couple different browns (tan, beige, walnut, ruddy, grey, etc) for all that fur and hair and leather. Probably a couple different greens too. One each in yellow, red, purple, orange, gold, silver, black and white. Dark, light, medium blues, an aqua or teal. A light fleshtone and a dark one.

 

After that, buy what you need based on your painting experience after a couple months. GW and Vallejo make good paint, lots of folks here use it.

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I second the learn to paint kits. They all come with full bottles of paint, decent beginner brushes, and helpful instructions on technique to get you into it.

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I haven't tried the LTPKs. Of course, I started back in the 80s...

 

But yeah, Vallejo paints are great, as are Reaper's. I have to say that I prefer the Vallejo Air Metallics for metallic paints, though. P3 also has good paints, though more...gaming oriented...than hobbyist oriented.

GW has some good pre-mixed washes...Argax Earthshade and their flesh wash are particularly useful, but I'd skip the rest of their paints.

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Thank you all for your replies, you gave me a lot to work with.

 

I think I will get the colors you suggested and get them for my initial selection. Can I use/mix vallejo paints with reaper paint so I can get the additional collors from my game store or would you advice against that?

 

I don't want to mix paints right away but eventually I will have to mix them.

 

Great hint on the forum filter, I will look up the older topics.

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you should have no problem mixing. GW paints are the hardest to mix, being in pots like they are, it's hard to add a drop of one colour into the others, but the only model paints I have ever used that do not mix well are Tamiya model colours

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I really like my Vallejo Model Color. I heard nasty things about the Game Color line.

 

When I travelled to Spain I made a lot of research to settle in around 30 paints to buy. I have it all in a spreadsheet, even comparing to the GW colores (that I used before, so I had a better feel of the colors).

 

These are all good advice, and if you are starting I would go with the LTPKs, but if you can get and chose your colors at the store I would do that. Get 10 basic colors to paint what you want to paint, and the collection will expand in time as you go by the store and decide you need more, and more.

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GW paints aren't bad, the worst thing I can really say about them is that they come in pots and most of the lids don't stay open on their own. At least with P3's pots you can easily prop the lids open while you dip your knife in to get a lil paint. But GW's pots can be a pain in the hinney to keep open sometimes.

 

That being said, I prefer to buy reaper and vallejo paints not just for their droppers but for their smoothness. Plus, vallejo's air metalics are reeeeeeeeally nice.

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I got my list of paint ready, had to do it twice due to a computer crash ...

 

Anyways let me know what you think.

 

01 Pure white
02 Aged Bone
03 Polished bone
04 Pure black
05 Walnut brown
06 Blackened brown
07 intense brown
08 Ruddy leather
09 tanned skin
10 fair skin
11 sun yellow,
12 saffron sunset
13 sapphire blue
14 Grass green
15 Olive green
16 Muddy Olive
17 Olive Drap
18 Blood red
19 Carnage red
20 Stone grey
21 Misty Grey
22 Monarch Purple
23 Royal Purple
24 Tarnished Steel
25 True Silver
26 Antique Gold
27 New Gold
28 Marine teal
29 Lava Orange
30 Flow Improver

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Looks good! You have a wide range of colors there. I would have chosen differently, but tastes in color are VERY personal.

 

I would have swapped out blackened brown for a brush on primer if painting metal (I live in Florida, spray primers hate humidity) or Carrot top red (I paint a lot of redheads). And swapped Ruddy Leather with Oiled Leather (I really like Oiled leather, its my go-to brown color). I think Aged Bone and Polished bone are a bit close, I'd go Bone shadow/Polished bone and mix the midtone (if doing lots of skellies) or Polished bone and ivory white (I use ivory white not true white as my brightest hightlight most of the time).

 

The real question is, however, can you paint the figures that YOU want to paint with them? If so, then you've got the colors you need!

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I'd actually swap either Blackened Brown or Walnut for Brown Liner. Particularly if you're doing Bones. It's very similar, and (so far) doesn't exhibit any weird behaviour. As you're fresh to the hobby, you don't want your paint fighting back when you use it. With experience you can become a fully-carded Paint Tamer, but in the beginning it'll be a lot easier for you if you don't have to sit back and try to puzzle out why something unexpected occured.

 

I also agree with Argentee re: Aged Bone/Polished Bone. Bone Shadow/Polished Bone would be the more useful combo in a limited palette like this.

 

For your reds, I'd substitute either Blood red or Carnage Red for Red Brick. Red Brick will be more versatile as a good shadow colour, either on its own if you want a strong transition, or mixed with your remaining red for a more gentle one.

 

Note that by mixing, I mean outside of the bottle. That may seem a no-brainer, but sometimes people have a way of being very literal in interpretation. Better to spell it out than to have you accidentally ruin your paint trying to follow our advice if we forget to be clear.

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