Jump to content

Recommended Posts

My husband wanted a spell effect mini of his draconian character. It's supposed to be a radiant version of the draconian, so I figured why not, I'll try an OSL effect. I'm fairly satisfied with my OSL on the base, but the mini itself doesn't meet the vision of my husband. He wanted it to be brighter or more radiant. I'm not sure how to accomplish that.

 

I would like advise on how to make this mini meet my husband's vision.

 

 

wa24.JPG
9z2r.jpg
gjo9.jpg

 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe if you un-radiant all of his equipment, and shade it into deep shadow, with the dragonman as the light source? Hell of a project, but I think the problem here is he has nothing to show that he is radiant. If he was in a diorama or scenic base he could light walls or pillars and have them throw dark shadows.

 

So yeah, he needs things to cast stark shadows to show how bright he is. F'rinstance, that shield could be done very dark and cast a dramatic, long, round shadow, there's probably enough room on the base to do that if you bring it in really close. Right where those rocks are would be where the bottom of the shield cast its shadow. Then, see that bit of basing behind him? Make it cast a long shadow, or make it a bit bigger and cast an even bigger shadow, preferably a long shadow. If you radiate shadows out from him like spokes of a wheel it will show that he is the OSL for the "scene".

 

For an additional approach, assuming he is bio-luminescent, he should look a bit like an infra-red version of himself in that his torso and neck and head would be warmest/brightest and his extremities less so. So you could dim into his fingers and toes, dim his claws and horns, possibly his ruff/mane there dimmed at the tips, possibly his wings - at tips and claws - could be dimmed, this is to indicate "bright at the centre" as works with flames on miniatures.

Edited by smokingwreckage
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

I think contrast is important here. Try making his armor not glow, and have the light cast onto his armor, so that he doesn't just look all-white. Also, if you want to look like he's radiating from within, you could do stronger reverse-highlighting, where the deeper recesses are brightest and the highest points are darker.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

i'm with slendertroll on this one. try reverse highlighting and adding non glowing elements to pump the contrast.

edit: a larger base would allow for more scenic elements to help convey an OSL effect and allow you to do starker shadows.

Edited by vulture
Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't really explain it well enough. This isn't meant to be my husband's character, it's meant to be a double of his character made of pure light. It would probably work better made of tranlucent plastic with a LED shoved up his bum, but I can't really do that :lol: So I tried painting it as if it were pure light. He expected it to look brighter, I figured it was done cause I followed the steps I found for painting light on OSL websites. Of course, they didn't really say anything about how to paint a light source this big!

 

That's what I get for trying to explain something while watching my hubby's Tales of Graces cutscenes :blink:

Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem boils down to what the other guys are saying - you need something for the light to reflect off of. Otherwise it just looks like a white mini. If you blacked out the armor and weapons, the draconian would read a lot brighter. But if the whole figure is meant to be emitting light, then you need surroundings (walls, tables, ceilings, other characters) to provide the contrast.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm no expert here and probably far from qualified to be giving advice.

...

Actually its kinda rude to just say that and leave, so here's my 2 cents anyway.

 

It may be the picture, but it seems to me that you've got 2 colours, a pale yellow and a creamy white. It may be that its a pure white and a bright yellow, but it doesn't quite look that way.

If so, I would suggest making your whites whiter and your colours brighter (Napisan won't work). When I paint glowing eyes the brightest part is white with the colour radiating from it. I don't know how realistic this is, but it looks good, and when you're painting a 3D figure supposedly formed from light, rule of cool applies.

 

So I would treat each "segment" (sword blade, hilt, each scale/muscle/armour segment) as a separate piece of light and using the brightest yellow you have, work to a point of pure white in the middle.

 

Alternatively see if he likes it treated as "solid" light, like some kind of magical crystal light (or light crystal if you will).

Then you can just use a gemstone tutorial to paint it (simplified I think its like: white edges, then treating each surface like a new facet shade from top working to highlight bottom).

 

Once again, I'm no expert, just things from vague memory of what's worked for me for other (much smaller) projects and stuff I think could look cool.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The impression of brightness is enhanced by high contrast. Rather than trying to raise your highlights, I'd recommend dropping your shadows, even if they're only in small areas.

 

Alternatively, you can raise the brightness of the figure by putting LEDs in the rim of the base, pointed at the figure. Then it will be the brightest thing on the table. (Which is sort of a joke, but only sort of. ^_^ )

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Evilhalfling
      So when I unpacked this Big Boi in 2017  I thought he would look really cool without wings.  but I'm it will be a lot of careful work to carve off the joins and resculpt him,  I just don't think I'm ready.  In February I did the scales for my verocthulu conversion, and thought "I could have done that better."
      So this is better.  
       
      This Dragon will be the colors or earth.   Burnt Umber base, and a hide scattered with Burnt Sienna, Tusk Ivory, and Leather Brown with ochre and NNM gold colors on the belly. 
      perhaps some cool gray or blue washes in the shadows.   The scales will be individually shaded, and the hide below staying the color of brown liner, or umber in the well lit areas. 
       
      So far its been about 4 hrs of work in sculpting, cleaning, gluing and mold line removal.
      it took 45 min just to cover him in brown liner.  He is a really big dragon, and I have no idea how long this is going to take. 
       
      but im getting a little obesessed - I don't want to schedule a meeting or go grocery shopping, I want to add more paint... 
      this feels like how I ended up with a dragon named Insomnia - who was painted almost entirely between 10pm and 7 am.   I kept waking up with new color ideas. 
      Or the DDS2 dragon who I spent 2-4 hours a day painting for a solid week, and another hour a night for the week after.  
       
      The last picture is my inspiration for the scale colors - the eyes will be much simpler than this. 
       



       


    • By Metalchaos
      Good day everyone, I will share here my progression on a project I wish to do for a long time. I already know all the parts I'll be using for this diorama. Starting with the carefree 03082 Ingrid sculpted by Derek Schubert (I'm converting her as a svirfneblin prospector), accompanied by her faithful familiar the 14453 hunting cat sculpted by Sandra Garrity. They are taken as prey by a 03602 stone lurker sculpted by Kevin Williams. I will also add a 02018 bat from the familiar pack 1 hanging somewhere on the rock wall. I already worked on Ingrid. I removed the base and give her a pickaxe. I made her tool with a paperclip and a piece of scrap metal. This all-project idea started with the gemstone she’s holding in her left hand.
       

       

       

       

    • By dks
      Nearly two years after I started a thread for showing off the figures of my Pathfinder Society characters, I present the second figure.
      (For that thread about the first character, click here: link.)
       
      This is Sister Ayano, a kitsune archer (level 8 now: paladin 5 of Shelyn / zen-archer monk 3).
      I did some extensive conversion to the elf archer Caerwynn, from the Warlord line.
       
      Here is the finished Ayano:

       
      You can see the Work-in-Progress thread for her here: link.
       
      You may have noticed the concept art for two kitsune figures in the "Eastern Legends" stretch-goal from the recent Bones III Kickstarter.  I'll be sculpting those two.  So if you like the way Ayano the kitsune looks and you wish Reaper made others figures like her ... well, you're in luck (sort of).
       
      Enjoy,
      Derek
    • By Metalchaos
      Here's another one!

      The Chimeric Aberration is something I was inspired to build after reading about Chimeric Creature in D&D Monster Manual 2. In the book, they give the example of a Chimeric ankheg which has the head and front legs of and ankheg with a goat and a white dragon head.

      I'm calling my monster a Chimeric Aberration, because it doesn't have the traits of a goat and a chromatic dragon which are normally present on a Chimeric Creature. Instead, my chaotic hybrid will be the result of a mad wizard experiment that went terribly wrong. It will have the main features of a Giant Hound, a Deadborn Vulture head will stretch out from the right side of the monster and an Hulking Insect head will sit on the left side.

      My plan is to use a 02817 Moor Hound for the main body. Then, I will use both heads from 03069, Hooked Hulk witch are included in 03440 Creature Components pack 2 along with 14456 Mastema’s tail included in 03334 Creature Components. I will also use 03641 Gunslinger’s wings to add another characteristic of the Vulture. I’ve considered larger wings like those of 02065 Greycloud the Pegasus and maybe 02729 Mephisto’s wings would have been even more appropriate but I don‘t have them at hand. I may swap some of its paw for claw and/or palmed foot as well.

      For the colors, I thought of painting the main body green like a Cù-Sìth from the Scottish folklore. The additional head will have traditional vulture and insect colors. Voilà, It should be charming.
       

    • By Metalchaos
      Hello everyone, here are some pictures of a 02126, Arachno-Assassin sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. I had this damaged mini for a long time and I decided to replace its upper left hand falchion for a sword from the 02455, Weapons pack IV. It was a very fun and easy model to paint. I intend to use it as a "boss" in a major encounter, so I painted it in red to increase the focus on it and point out how dangerous it is. The bluish bladed sword will be magical, maybe even cursed. 
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

  • Who's Online   10 Members, 1 Anonymous, 40 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...