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No, by looks and description. Green Stuff (Kneadatite) does not file well nor dries rock hard.

 

 

I would think it is equivalent to the brownstuff variation of kneadatite.

I havn't used it myself but it seems good for rigid structure and sharp edges while greenstuff is prefered for organic shapes.and flexibility.

So I guess, weapons, armour and machines vs bodies, hair and clothing.

Thank you . My worry is the box says it dries to a resin and I wonder if there was health issues with resin I should know before I start

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Thank you . My worry is the box says it dries to a resin and I wonder if there was health issues with resin I should know before I start

 

 

Get the Material Safety Data Sheet from the manufacturer or retailer. (They have to give it to you, btw.) That's why they're made.

 

For that matter, you can usually find it with a Google search.

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No, by looks and description. Green Stuff (Kneadatite) does not file well nor dries rock hard.

 

 

I would think it is equivalent to the brownstuff variation of kneadatite.

I havn't used it myself but it seems good for rigid structure and sharp edges while greenstuff is prefered for organic shapes.and flexibility.

So I guess, weapons, armour and machines vs bodies, hair and clothing.

Thank you . My worry is the box says it dries to a resin and I wonder if there was health issues with resin I should know before I start

 

 

Again, its not something I have experience with but I can advise you to get some kind of face mask if you plan to sand or file the material.

I wouldn't be surprised if the same applied to green stuff, and I'm certain that you need to take care with polymer clays like sculpey, but resins specifically can be hazardous to your respiratory system if you're breathing in the fine particles.

 

Apart from that I don't know that there'd be too many issues. Some people can apparently get skin irritation from epoxy putties so if you find this occuring you may need to wear gloves.

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Both 'Greenstuff' and 'Brownstuff' are manufactured by Polymeric Systems and sold under the brand name of Kneadatite and also repackaged and sold by many game companies under variations of those names. 'Greenstuff' is actually Kneadatite Blue/Yellow and 'Brownstuff' is actually Kneadatite Brown/Neutral, also called Brown/Aluminum.

 

Both are epoxy putty mixes and you should take appropriate precautions to avoid breathing the dust when sanding/filing/drilling. Greenstuff has slightly more flex to it when dry, especially in thinner pieces and also doesn't hold hard edges quite as well. Brownstuff dries rock hard and can be sculpted to almost a knife edge. The two can be mixed together if desired.

 

Note that if you purchase the actual Kneadatite brand of Blue/Yellow (aka Greenstuff) you can usually get the side by side, tape style rolls in 3 foot quantities for about what most game companies charge for 5 to 9 inches of the exact same thing repackaged. If your local hobby/craft store doesn't have it and won't get it (they have to order it direct from Polymeric in case quantity), then check Amazon. Average price for a 3 foot roll of Blue/Yellow is $12-15 retail price. Brown/Neutral is more expensive, though I haven't ordered it lately so I can't quote prices off the top of my head.

Edited by Erifnogard
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What Erifnogard said. Privateer's Brownstuff is manufactured by Polymeric. It is the "Original Version" of Brownstuff that contains aluminum powder. It was sold by Polymeric as a Gastank Repair Kit back in the day. Polymeric switched to the brown/neutral mix, with no aluminum powder in it, a number of years ago. One of the Privateer sculptors prefers the original recipie of Brownstuff and convinced Privateer to work with Polymeric to bring the old formula back.

 

Happy Sculpting

 

Gene

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Most of the time I see the Brown/Neutral Kneadatite selling for 2-5 times the cost of the Green/Yellow. I'm not sure why the cost differential. You can get some pretty good deals on the longer ribbons on Ebay as well. As with all Ebay shopping however, do your research, and caveat emptor.

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