Jump to content

Disabled Painters and Advice


Recommended Posts

This thread is designed to advice to disabled people in the hobby. In starting this thread a free exchange of solutions are offered to those posting with difficulties in painting.

 

Starting off ...I am new to painting and disabled. My Cerebral Palsy makes holding minis somewhat difficult while painting. Admitidlly, my CP is mild compared to most but fine muscle and motor control is a problem. Thus far, many suggested in my other post, http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52019-getting-started/ the use of poster puddy stuck on a graspable surface (upside mud, pill bottle, and wooden doll) tends to work best.

 

Bracing your brush hand against the table's edge is another idea that has been offered. I am curious to try it when my figures come in next week.

 

For those who cannot hold the brush, a thought I had was a duplicate to the above but add your brush to the buddy.

 

Are there any other ideas or methods that you can suggest?

 

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 33
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Something like this? 

 

I use one simply because I am so ridiculously right handed it helps to have something clamped around the mini while I paint.  FYI I pad my alligator clips because they do grip firmly enough to potentially scar either a bones or metal miniature.

 

I am not sure if this would help if you were also trying to paint by holding the brush with something else, but I have worked with a couple of folks who had CP and they both had full use of one hand.  I do not know if this is commonly the case, but I'm thinking for someone like yourself it should really do well.

 

Plus the magnifying glass is nice.  I thought I had good eyesight until I started painting again :-)

Edited by Qwyksilver
Removed link to commerce sight. Linked directly to image.
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's an idea for something that may help steady your brush hand. I work in IT and for users who suffer from carpal tunnel syndrome we provide these wrist braces/rests that clamp onto the edge of their desk and have an adjustable height. It allows the user to elevate and rest their wrists on them while typing, but you could also use them to rest your forearm while painting. Some even have an elevated mouse platform attached that you could also place your mini on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know what it's called, but I got something or another shipped to me wrapped in a sheet of some material that is sort of like foam-ish.  I believe it was slats for a piece of furniture.  It's roughly the thickness of a piece of poster board but is completely flexible.  It's not Styrofoam but feels almost like a really super fine texture of closed cell foam.  Sorry, it' pretty hard to describe :-(

 

 

I think it's this stuff?  Not that I'd spend money buying it with other options, just linked this so you'd know what I was talking about if you saw any.  Not sure the stuff I had was 1/8 " -- seems like it was way thinner, maybe 1/16" if I had to guess.

Edited by Qwyksilver
Commerce link removed.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if this will help, but...

 

Zenithal priming / Dutch Masters is a technique where you paint the entire figure black, then drybrush grey, then highlight white. Easier to work on the entire miniature, than shade and highlight individual blocked areas. If you're using Bones, you can also basecoat the entire miniature in a light color, slap on the QuickShade Ink, and do all your shading at once.

 

Washes automagically shades recesses by capillary action, instead of trying to stick the paint in the right place (not to mention mixing paint from base coat to shade or highlight). Because you're using thin layers of color, the washes will do the blending of colors on the miniature for you: http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?209588-More-fun-with-washes

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ced

 

What is QuickShade Ink?

Army Painter produces a line of washes that will quickly shade your figures. They're especially useful for, appropriately enough, painting armies - when you want to do a lot of minis very quickly and somewhat uniformly.

Edited by Qwyksilver
Commerce link removed
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Photographer and painter Chuck Close, who suffered partial paralysis and very limited manual dexterity, used to tape his brush into his hand. I believe he now uses some sort of leather strap. His work is anything but miniature. He specializes in massive paitings and photos but his techniques may be of some use to you. There is a documentary about him on youtube. Fair warning some of his work is NSFW.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am one of the board's official blue zone painters. (Yes I have a congential birth defect. I have TAR syndome. Google it. I am a human T-Rex and I'm awesome!) In order for me to give you some advice you're going to need to get super specific about your challenges. Things like how is your grasp, your fine motor control, how well do you handle writing implements, what thickness do you prefer on your writing implements, what assitive technologies if any do you use to write/draw? This is for starters. The muscle groups involved are similar to writing so that's where we can start.

Some of the initial suggestions given may help, but without specifics most advice will be unhelpful. If you're uncomfortable talking in public feel free to PM me. ::):

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Ced

 

What is QuickShade Ink?

Army Painter produces a line of washes that will quickly shade your figures. They're especially useful for, appropriately enough, painting armies - when you want to do a lot of minis very quickly and somewhat uniformly.

 

 

www.miniaturemarket.com/amywp1135.html

 

 

I use Quickshade quite a bit. There are some examples of the results here: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47525-quickshaded-bones-gnoll-etc/

 

I have some damage to my left shoulder (I'm a lefty) which can cause it to shake when I've over stressed it (or it just feels like it). The technique I use that helps to minimize the affect is to make sure that both hands are together, with my right holding the miniatures (on a bottle cap, or cork or something) and the brush in my left. If possible I hold my hands so the heels of the palms are in contact. That way if my left arm shakes the right hand goes with it.

It doesn't help much when the fingers holding the brush twitch on their own though, so that's where using thinned paint and layering can help minimize the touchups needed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Similar Content

    • By Pingo
      So I have gotten comments like this now and again:
       
       
      and again:
       
       
      so I thought I would start a thread to talk some about how I paint, because it works pretty well for me and maybe what I've learned and practiced can help other people too.
       
      How I paint miniatures is grounded in how I paint paintings, so that's what I'm going to talk about here.
       
      I have a series of WIP photos from a recent painting which I will use to demonstrate.
       
      This is the finished painting:

       
      "Nurturing the Phoenix", oil paint on wooden panel, approx. 18"x24" (would have to pull it out of the painting closet and measure to check)
    • By Glitterwolf
      I've been struggling for a good recipe.
       
      Using Reaper MSP paints and or Scale 75.
       
      What would make a good recipe for realistic desert terrain?
      And I do mean the Sahara or Egyptian kind of desert.
       
      I want to make some nice Egyptian themed undead, but my recipes are either too brown or too yellow and don't come off as real yet.
       
      So any thoughts?
    • By Garnfellow
      I am preparing to paint the nifty Reaper Bones nabassu demon, and I am struck by the art from the Pathfinder Bestiary. However, it occurs to me I have no idea how to get that bleached out reddish/purplish effect. I've got a pretty decent collection of Reaper paints, but I am strictly a basecoat-wash-drybrush highlights-details guy. I can't seem to get a lighter shade of red without it becoming orange or (worse) Pepto-bismol pink, and this guy definitely shouldn't be pink.
       
      How should I tackle this mini? I really don't even know where to start to get that color effect.
    • By SplotchyInk
      I was painting a Bones stone golem for a game, and I attempted to give it a kind of tree bark looking texture or some kind of wood texture because... frankly they didn't have the miniature I was looking for in stock.  My first thought was to attempt to make it look like muscle, but painting it in wood colors to make it look organic kind of like Groot.  Though I scrapped that and tried a generic bark texture.  Now it looks more like rust on iron in my opinion, so i finished it for now.

      What would you have done to attempt to make this guy look more 'wooden'.


    • By hugdctr
      Hi there.
       
      What NMM colors do you guys use to make a metal object look like gold, silver, and copper?? I would really appreciate some combinations to go from a dark area(under the elbow facing down, to slowly changing to the bright effect where the light reflects from. Say start with a dark brown to light brown to tan to blonde to blonde + white for highlight. But what are your colors from Reaper preferably? Please list color number ie..09028 muddy brown then 09030 leather brown. Next 09032 amber gold, next, 09033 golden brown. I would really appreciate any help you masters could give me.
       
      Best regards,
       
      Hugdctr
×
×
  • Create New...