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Gorax - Circle of Orboros - Privateer Press


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This little guy gaven me the chance to work on improving my skin. I'm not sure if I technically improved, but he isn't blotchy like my previous models. I like it, this was what I wanted my Pureblood Warpwolf to look like.

Any tips on skin would be appreciated. I tried a base coat, then some medium highlights, then some very watered down brighter highlights applied over and over again on top of the medium and base coats.

I think my pictures taking ability is improving too. I may go back and edit all my previous posts.

Hope you enjoy :)

 

Gorax1.jpg

 

Gorax2.jpg

 

Gorax4.jpg

 

Gorax3.jpg

 

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Ugh, this is one of my least favorite PP sculpts.

 

Having got that out of the way, I think your pale skin looks really nice on him. Something you can do to help make it look more like skin is vary the colors in the shadows...knowing you're going for fairly quick paint jobs, you might not want to add another paint step, but if you do one more level of shadows darker than what you have, take that last level into a color that's the opposite of the main skin tone...for this guy, the white of his skin is very cool and very green, so a reddish-brown would probably work well.

 

This adds complexity and depth without too much effort, which is really important for skin. It creates the illusion that the skin has flesh beneath it.

 

Coincidentally, a really good example of this was just posted by Jabberwocky here. You can see, the pink he placed in the shadows of the white is very subtle, but it adds a lot of interest. The Gorax, here, is much greener than the Hound Jabberwocky painted, so I think something more red than pink would work better here, but it shows the theory at work anyway.

 

Overall, though, I think you're on a good track with this skin. I really love the colors you're using on the PP minis you've painted so far; you've got a good eye for striking combinations.

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First off, that skin looks great, the eyes really give the model character and it's an overall solid unit.

 

Sanael covered the skin pretty well so I'll hit a couple other spots for critique.

 

The skin and eyes are the star of the show, but I'd like to see a bit more contrast, especially highlights, on other areas of teh mini. Pop out some dabs of highlight on that rope or stitching on the belt thingy. The gold in particular needs a lot more contrast. Don't be afraid to push gold right up to white and down to a dark red/brown (for a warm gold). Griming up the teeth a bit wouldn't hurt, either :)

 

On the pics: they look good. You're still getting a really hot spot in front (where the skin tone turns a blown-out white, specular highlight on the base), I'm guessing you have a light front and center over the mini, out in front a bit. It's better to use two completely matched lights (fixture and bulb) that are only slightly above the mini, one left one right, about 45 degrees in front aiming back at the model. Far enough back you don't get hot spots, and you can also think about using a light box with tissue paper sides to control hot spots (by diffusing the light).

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Not a sculpt that I wanted to purchase at all either, but the previous sculpt was even worst.

PP made it very desireable for my wife's army and to prove it, she just kicked my butt with him this afternoon.

 

 

 

First off, that skin looks great, the eyes really give the model character and it's an overall solid unit.

 

Sanael covered the skin pretty well so I'll hit a couple other spots for critique.

 

The skin and eyes are the star of the show, but I'd like to see a bit more contrast, especially highlights, on other areas of teh mini. Pop out some dabs of highlight on that rope or stitching on the belt thingy. The gold in particular needs a lot more contrast. Don't be afraid to push gold right up to white and down to a dark red/brown (for a warm gold). Griming up the teeth a bit wouldn't hurt, either :)

 

On the pics: they look good. You're still getting a really hot spot in front (where the skin tone turns a blown-out white, specular highlight on the base), I'm guessing you have a light front and center over the mini, out in front a bit. It's better to use two completely matched lights (fixture and bulb) that are only slightly above the mini, one left one right, about 45 degrees in front aiming back at the model. Far enough back you don't get hot spots, and you can also think about using a light box with tissue paper sides to control hot spots (by diffusing the light).

 

Yeah, I purposely didn't bother with the ropes and fur. It was a combination of losing interest/wanting to move on to something else, wanting to play a game and my favorite brush starting to give out and begin to fan.

Actually it is in a light tent and I am using cardstock inside it. The light is from the front opening, I guess I can use the front cover with the slit for the camera that velcros on.....I'm doing things half assed, I know, but it really isn't my thing and the pics are at the point where I am happy with them. :P

I've tried to mix metallics with non metallics and it never looks right to me. Is that how you get different tones of something like gold?

Edited by Mutilatedlips
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I have been doing straight nmm gold for a while now. Lots of examples in my Workbench thread and I can answer questions if you like any of that. TMM is on the menu, but not for a few more projects.

 

Don't look at the hotspots on Luther, the guy I just posted! :) New can of varnish is a bit more gloss than I'm used to, plus I've reduced from a 3 light to a 2 light setup per Doug Sundseth to try and continue to improve my pics (I do listen, Doug!).

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with metallics, it helps having a couple shades of the metal. Reaper has a couple of different golds and silvers that work well for highlighting and shading. Learn to paint kit 5 goes into detail on the subject, which is where I learned my so far meager metal skills

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