Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Hiya, folks! Okay, so in response to questions about some of the arcane magicks I've deployed in my Work In Progress threads I'm going to try and narrow down and illustrate a few things and see if th

Okay, so I'm going to start off real easy. The example brush here is a Testors medium white handled synthetic. This is a good utility brush for this sort of thing. If I hadn't been down to so few r

Sorry about the delay, I became Busylips this weekend. I'm popular, everybody wants a piece.   Okay, so I'm going to go over a couple more basics in this post and then hopefully soon after this I

Posted Images

If I may oh exalted teacher. I've been dealing with trying to find a replacement drybrush for the first one I ever bought, lasted me 3 or so years, and it never really dawned on me what makes a good dry brush, well, brush. I thought any brush would work but I've gone through about 5 the past two months until I've finally found what works.

 

You'll want some type of brush with a bit of spring to it and that the bristles themselves stay together. This doesn't mean the brush has to come to a point, but you don't want the bristles to be shooting out every which way as it will inhibit you from having any type of control on where the paint goes and how much. The brush being a bit springy also helps with how much paint ends up where you want it as it allows for much lighter pressure.

Edited by MonkeySloth
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, I typically thin my paints a little bit when I drybrush. Other than that, this pretty much lines up with my understanding of the techniques. The "fan" is new to me though, I usually think of it as either mono- or poly-directional. That is, scrub in one direction, as your drag, or in many directions, as in your scrub.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the thread, and waiting for more. Strangely, I never thought of the fan thing, and that scrubbing makes me shudder. Never, my precious brushes, NEVER I say!

 

Only gently dragging the edge of the brush against the edge of detail for me :)

 

I want to see what you call dampbrushing, to see if you do the same as I do.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

This all makes sense so far. The brush snob in me is screaming in rebellion, but I do have a bunch of testors brushes I use for PVA glue. I never thought they would touch paint. Personally, for drybrushing I tend to like something with shorter bristles that offer finer control, but then, I'm relatively patient, and don't mind slowly building my paint up with light brushing. If I was doing Kaladrax in 7 days, I don't think I could do that. I'll be watching you, Goblin. but I like what I see so far. I now intend to sacrifice a testors or 2 to Kali.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well timed! I'm gonna be drybrushing like a madman as soon as I get to my DHL Skellies (hopefully this weekend,) and while I've read over painting theory ad nauseum, a Buglips guide is a very welcome refresher! I've always been scared to drybrush. No matter how much paint I think I've rubbed off, there's always too much left on the brush, and I gorp things I want left un-gorped. Plus drybrushing is often recommended for highlights, but I worry that the lack of control when flicking the brush around so much will result in getting paint on the wrong parts of the mini.

 

I'm very interested in getting to this "wetbrushing." Specifically how it's applied, and how much you load your brushes when doing it.

 

Looking forward to more!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been dry-brushing since I saw a video on it online Sabith. It's nothing to be scared of, a good way to check and see if your brush has too much paint on it is to run it over the back of your hand and see how much paint comes off it after you've tried to get it down to the right amount on your brush. This will show you how much paint you'll be releasing on your figure, you'll see it come out very lightly on your skin or too heavy and can adjust accordingly.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By TGP
      Our Anti-Hero Rictur Diehn the Assassin (2430) has decided to build a Wet Palette**
       
       
      PARTS LIST:
      Peanut Butter Jar Lid, 90mm, culled from recycle bin Peanut Butter Jar Lid, 85mm, culled from recycle bin Paper Towels, Bounty Brand, nicked from kitchen Parchment Paper, Reynolds Brand, nicked from kitchen Copper Wire, Solid, 3mm OD, purchased from Home Depot for $0.63 / foot  
      QUANTITIES (In Order):
      (1), (1), (4 half sheets), (2 layers), (10--12 inches (255-300mm) )  
       
      #Searchwords
      TGPTGP;  acid washed; Palette; Recycle Bin; Scratchbuilt; Plastic Lids; Copper
      **With some off camera help from Pendrake The Griffon
    • By Lyn
      There is a Kickstarter going on until January 7th, 2019 for the English version of the book “The Art of Miniature” by Mohand Art. 
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mohandart/the-art-of-the-miniature-miniature-art-tutorial-bo

    • By Guindyloo
      Hi friends! We have another project to share with you in our continuing series where Buglips and I paint the same figure using our own very different from each other approaches to miniature painting. If you're not familiar with this series, you can check out our previous topics:
      03100: Thanis the Bonecaller
      01614: Con Crud 2017 Convention Zombie
      02818: Bugbear Warrior
       
      For this project, we decided to paint Scorpius Rex Dracus, which is an older figure in the back catalog of Reaper - just look at the number! 02017! He's one of the OG's of the Reaper catalog! Our usual method for picking a figure is generally that one of us already owns it and suggests it and then the other of us goes and orders it. However, for Scorpius Rex Dracus, we actually both already owned him because he's a really neat figure with a lot of personality.
       
      I know a lot of people are a bit intimidated by the thought of painting dragons, but I promise they're a lot of fun and this guy would actually be a great starter dragon, as he's on the smaller side. I didn't have a Sir Forscale, but here he is next to Queen Illeosa of Korvosa to give you an idea of his size.

      So you can see, he's a far less intimidating size than the dragons you see in Bones. (Spoiler alert, I'm going to assemble him a little later. )
       
      But for now, here he is straight out of the blister:

       
      As we've done with our previous WIP posts, I will be tackling this guy with my method of painting for display and I'll do my best to take y'all through all of the steps that I go through from start to finish and share my thoughts with you as I go along.
       
      As always, please feel free to comment or ask questions - I'm always glad to help out in whatever way I can along the way. I'll try not to take too many blurry pictures....but no promises. 
       
    • By Gargs
      Hopefully an easy question regarding NMM. I hear a lot of talk about doing NMM vs. TMM but my question is, what are the advantages of NMM over TMM? I know that typically, NMM will likely take a bit longer than TMM (unless I am just misinformed) but the main advantage that jumps out at me is that NMM are better on your brushes, which I suppose could mean that you can use better brushes with it, which in turn may yield a better result. I'm guessing there's more to it than that though so I am curious as to what everyone's thoughts on it were. Are they simply that much better once you get the hang of it? Is it just for the challenge/enjoyment aspect of doing it with NMM? Something else?
       
      I'm not really sure that I'm ready to try tackling it yet anyway but am just curious as to what can be done with them and if its something worth putting into the ole idea file so to speak. As a beginner, using TMM has certainly been nice for creating that metallic feel but I see enough comments on NMM that I'm guessing I'm also missing something. ;)
    • By ThirstyBob
      Show off might be a bit of a misnomer, I'm not the happiest with these guys, mostly putting this up for tips on what I could do better next time.
       
      Paste from final post in  WIP thread:
       Alright "finished" with these guys. When I say "finished" I mean I'm overcoming my perfectionism to move on to something else because they're serviceable. Tried to use some speed painting techniques, but still took way too long, need to work on that. If anyone's got any tips on how I could have made them better without, layering/glazing/something else that takes forever, they would be much appreciated!







  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 31 Guests (See full list)


×
×
  • Create New...