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ub3r_n3rd

Best brushes for Dry-brushing?

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So as to not disturb Professor Buglips' thread, I'll post this question here.

 

I need some advice on some good dry-brushing brushes that people use. I've heard that some smaller synthetic brushes (not pointed) are the best to get the technique down and have the best control. Right now I've been using (to bad effect) an older LTPK sable brush, but it just sprawls out like a lazy cat on a Sunday afternoon as soon as I start working with it.

 

So I'm wondering if people wouldn't mind linking the brushes they would most highly recommend so that I can go pick a few of them up online or at a local craft store.

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For just starting out, the white testors medium. You should be able to find it pretty much anywhere model kits are sold.

 

There are three in the white handled line: the small, which has an uneven fuzzy tip. This is useless unless dire emergency. It just doesn't have enough length to be handy and the ragged edge is just a paint in the butt. The medium, which is King Brush of these three. It can do it all and never complains. The third is the big one with a metal ferrule. You'd think this might be handy, but it will shed terribly after a short time.

 

Beyond that I just generally use old brushes or what happens to be handy. Although I did find the Size 0 Q Series 5R White Watermedia synthetics exceptionally handy for Kaladrax. Also surprisingly robust. I can't remember where I got them, so I don't know how much they cost. They'd be my go-to if I needed something a little more precise than the Testors. Although I intend to cover the differences between size and hairs in the guide thread when I get to more complicated uses, and when and where I would specifically choose a brush different from the above.

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I actually use the Citadel small and medium drybrushes for drybrushing. They're sturdy, and keep their shape well enough if taken care of.

 

Very cool. I actually have an Evil Empire err GWS not too far from my house.

 

For just starting out, the white testors medium. You should be able to find it pretty much anywhere model kits are sold.

 

There are three in the white handled line: the small, which has an uneven fuzzy tip. This is useless unless dire emergency. It just doesn't have enough length to be handy and the ragged edge is just a paint in the butt. The medium, which is King Brush of these three. It can do it all and never complains. The third is the big one with a metal ferrule. You'd think this might be handy, but it will shed terribly after a short time.

 

Beyond that I just generally use old brushes or what happens to be handy. Although I did find the Size 0 Q Series 5R White Watermedia synthetics exceptionally handy for Kaladrax. Also surprisingly robust. I can't remember where I got them, so I don't know how much they cost. They'd be my go-to if I needed something a little more precise than the Testors. Although I intend to cover the differences between size and hairs in the guide thread when I get to more complicated uses, and when and where I would specifically choose a brush different from the above.

 

Cool, thanks Professor Buglips! I found these on Amazon, do you think they'd work out okay? Or would you just say go to the craft store and pick up those testors?

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I actually use the Citadel small and medium drybrushes for drybrushing. They're sturdy, and keep their shape well enough if taken care of.

Ditto.

 

But these can get pricey if you are rough on drybrushes. If you are patient enough to slowly build your paint up with gentle flicking strokes, they can last for years. If you are scrubbing in your paint, they will die quick miserable deaths. As usual, I recommend a middle ground. Cheap hobby store brushes do the heavy lifting, and my citadel brushes are saved for lighter more precise work.

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Mongoose Hair Filbert brushes. I use a #2 normally and #4 for larger projects. The white handled Testors small brush is a champion at dry brushing, and this is where I disagree with Buglips. It's cool though. He's not always right. :poke:::P:

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Sounds like I might need to go to the hobby store this weekend and get those Testors brushes! Thanks for all the great answers folks. Very helpful as always, the reason I spend so much time on the forum.

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I've found the synthetic Reaper-branded brushes from the L2PKs to be good for dry-brushing. Certainly outlasted the cheap sable I picked up from the local hobby shop when I got back into painting.

 

I'm going to start mass dry-brushing my Dwarven Forge tiles soon - I intend to pick up a large hogs-hair brush for that job and see how it goes

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In the tutorial I watched (on youtube) on drybrushing when I was first starting out, the artist used a flat brush. So, I started out using the http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/brush/sku-down/08501'>Reaper Pro Paint #2 Flatbrush I got in one of their brush sets. It works pretty well, though it doesn't quite work the way I think it should be (it has problems with scrubbing, though going back and forth in a line it works well). It's starting to get kind of splayed out, though, and the ends are getting fuzzy, and I haven't done very much drybrushing with it yet, so I think I'll have to start looking for other options. I'll check out the Testors. :)

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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My problem is that I'm using an older red sable brush from one of the LTPK's, it's a flat headed brush, but whenever I try to dry-brush with it, it will splay out like crazy and then I end up having to touch up way too much on my figures cause those errant bristles will touch everything from a mile away.

 

I'm willing to invest in those more expensive synthetic brushes though since I'm in this hobby for the long haul (better be with most of Bones 1 and upcoming Bones 2 on the way!). So I'm hoping this weekend I can get to Micheal's or Hobby Lobby to see what they have in stock. I'll probably end up buying more neat stuff from them too as I can't help myself!

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My problem is that I'm using an older red sable brush from one of the LTPK's, it's a flat headed brush, but whenever I try to dry-brush with it, it will splay out like crazy and then I end up having to touch up way too much on my figures cause those errant bristles will touch everything from a mile away.

 

I'm willing to invest in those more expensive synthetic brushes though since I'm in this hobby for the long haul (better be with most of Bones 1 and upcoming Bones 2 on the way!). So I'm hoping this weekend I can get to Micheal's or Hobby Lobby to see what they have in stock. I'll probably end up buying more neat stuff from them too as I can't help myself!

Army Painter has some nifty dry brushes - a small drybrush with an angled tip, and its large drybrush for vehicles and what-not. I haven't used mine very much, but they seem nifty.

 

Mostly, I've been using my 2 Flat from my Reaper LTPK. I also have a bunch of those medium Testor's Buglips recommended... I picked up a bunch of them back when I first got back into painting, when I thought I was going to be dipping minis all the time (or, more likely, brushing Dip onto them - so that it was more controllable - and then tossing the brushes away rather than worrying about cleaning them). I only did that a couple of times, and then moved on to more advanced methods... so I still have a bunch of them. ^_^ I'll throw 'em into my paint kit and experiment.

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I use synthetics for dry-brushing because they're cheap, soft and springy, and for that purpose their inferior paint flow isn't an issue. I prefer a filbert because it gives you both a broad and narrow stroke in the same brush, but otherwise I use rounds — mops, usually. Chisels are OK for broad areas, but you have to be a bit careful about getting ridging effects from the corners of the brush, especially if you've been a bit heavy-handed with the paint.

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I'll add a vote for the LTPK brushes. They're high enough quality that they seem to deposit predictable coverage, and I didn't have to pay extra for them. BONUS PLUS BONUS EQUALS BONUS. I are good at math.

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