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Base coating issues


Iron Knight
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I prime my miniatures with Krylon Camouflage Fusion Gray Primer.

Once it dries, I have no problem with color application.

I have noticed that on occasion some of the bones take a very long time to dry.

I don't wash my miniatures (maybe that is why I have had a couple of problems).

The Krylon comes in White, Black and Gray.

It really works with my painting style.

Hope that helps.

Jasonator

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My Vallejo Game Color have been really bad with the beading etc, even over primer(!). I was starting to think the paint had gone bad, until I painted some pewter minis yesterday and they were fine. Vallejo Model Color seems to work better, it has a thicker consistency, but can obscure detail. I think I may try boiling the minis as suggested above, scrubbing certainly helps but doesn't solve it.

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I'm one of those wierdos that prime my bones but i have yet to have a coverage problem. I don't use pure prime either. I dilute my reaper white primer, add a drop or two of black paint, a couple drops of water or medium and mix. It's thick enough that it primes it nicely but its not so thick that it hides all of the detail of the bone, it's also great for seeing any mold lines I missed. I've yet to experiment with liners, but I want to! So far, my bases go on nicely and rarely ever require a second coat. I was using glass and tile medium but it's been pretty 'iffy' lately.

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No matter what anyone says, do not paint a base coat undiluted without primer. GW primer works great on bones and then you can dilute your paints down to washes if you want and they will behave no different than a metal or resin model.

 

*this goes for Games Workshop spray can primer. I have not used any other primer, I honestly dont know why anyone would ever use Krylon or anything else they found at a hardware store on their miniatures. Most primer is made to fill cracks, that is the WORST thing for a miniature it makes all the fine detail disappear. They make miniature gaming primer for a reason. I found GW works great and have been told Army Painter also works well on bones. I have tried GW's/Citadel's brush on primer on bones and it did not work at all. Zero. It was like oil and vinegar.

Edited by Rich711
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Use Reaper MSP Brown, Grey, or Blue Liner. All three go on almost black and are thin enough to not cover detail. One thin, see through coat is good enough for a primer coat.

I wish Reaper made a lighter color of "Liner". I know a liner is probably not supposed to be light in color, but the heart wants what it wants.

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Use Reaper MSP Brown, Grey, or Blue Liner. All three go on almost black and are thin enough to not cover detail. One thin, see through coat is good enough for a primer coat.

 

I wish Reaper made a lighter color of "Liner". I know a liner is probably not supposed to be light in color, but the heart wants what it wants.

I have to agree with this. I started my pathfinder red dragon with brown liner. I think it was too dark for this. On a figure that I want brighter colors on it might have been a problem (but not so much with the dragon). A nice neutral grey liner of some sort would be great. Of course suggestions on a way to create this yourself would be great.

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I have used every color of Army Painter Primer ex Crystal Blue. They work great. Once primed my Vallejo Game Color and Model Color(the latter you should be diluting) cover great. I also use P3 paint and GW paints all work great. Older GW primer doesn't cure on Bones so be careful.

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I posted this elsewhere... but this seems to be a more appropriate sub-forum, and some of you might find this useful:

 

I understand some like to use "Glass and Tile Medium" (Folk Art) as a primer; but it's pretty hard to find it in a store, and I remember seeing some comments wishing it came in something other than a 2-oz bottle.

 

Here's option B:

http://store.weberar...odshow&ref=2856

 

Comes in an 8-oz bottle, the price is reasonable, and the shipping isn't bad either.

Martin F. Weber have been in business for decades; they don't make uber high-end paints/inks, but they don't make junk either.

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Use Reaper MSP Brown, Grey, or Blue Liner. All three go on almost black and are thin enough to not cover detail. One thin, see through coat is good enough for a primer coat.

I wish Reaper made a lighter color of "Liner". I know a liner is probably not supposed to be light in color, but the heart wants what it wants.

I have to agree with this. I started my pathfinder red dragon with brown liner. I think it was too dark for this. On a figure that I want brighter colors on it might have been a problem (but not so much with the dragon). A nice neutral grey liner of some sort would be great. Of course suggestions on a way to create this yourself would be great.

 

 

 

2 parts Grey Liner to 1 part Pure White should give you a nice grey.

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No matter what anyone says, do not paint a base coat undiluted without primer. GW primer works great on bones and then you can dilute your paints down to washes if you want and they will behave no different than a metal or resin model.

 

*this goes for Games Workshop spray can primer. I have not used any other primer, I honestly dont know why anyone would ever use Krylon or anything else they found at a hardware store on their miniatures. Most primer is made to fill cracks, that is the WORST thing for a miniature it makes all the fine detail disappear. They make miniature gaming primer for a reason. I found GW works great and have been told Army Painter also works well on bones. I have tried GW's/Citadel's brush on primer on bones and it did not work at all. Zero. It was like oil and vinegar.

 

The main reason is the cost.. Primer's are not all equal and GW primer is not primer at all just black spray paint.. There are a handful of paint companies throughout the world.. GW or Army Painter do not make their paints, it is rebranded paint from someone else.. So why pay 3 times the cost for something that can be bought at home depot or lowes for a fraction??

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I do practice what I preach in the articles over in the Bones forum. I've painted more than a dozen Bones just washing with soap and water and then using MSP from the bottle for base coat colours, and I have not noticed any loss of detail. I can't imagine that 1-2 coats of unthinned paint is really that much thicker than 1 coat of primer and 2-4 coats of thinned paint. (Assuming a scenario where you're not using old paints that have had a lot of water evaporate and are becoming gloopy.)

 

Things are a bit hectic for me now, but once I get a chance I'll photograph the figures so you can judge for yourselves. They're not contest display quality, by any means, but they're not detail-free lumps, either!

 

If I were someone who, for whatever reason, would be happier having an all over coat to start from when painting a Bones, I would consider getting a cheap airbrush to 'prime' with that using MSP diluted with airbrush medium and a bit of water. Beautiful thin coats.

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I've been considering a cheap air brush for that reason. And it would get me learning to use one for when I want to tackle larger minis with it.

 

But of course I always fight the "buy the right tool the first time" mantra I have and keep looking at more expensive air brush set ups!

Edited by Harrek
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