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wdmartin

Basic Equipment

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My collection consists of the first three LTPK's, 3 of the paint kits from the first Bones KS (I wish I would've gotten the 4th kit too now), and a few paints I ordered a while back when I got a couple of pewter figures from the store.

 

I'd highly recommend adding a little bit to the pledge manager (when it's open) if you've backed KS 2 in order to get those paint sets for 50% off, that's just a great deal.

It's a great deal, but you've gotta wait so long! I wouldn't recommend Set 1 for that reason, I'd suggest getting the boxed sets of HD from an online retailer like Miniature Marketplace ($36 for 19 paints and a cool carrying case).

 

On the other hand, I'm still waiting for the NEW! paints from last Kickstarter to be available at retail, so I'd say jump on set 2!

Edited by Last Knight
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I don't mind waiting on the new paints personally, but I have enough right now to last me and the way I figure it saving 50% on those sets of paints even if it takes a year to get them is still a great deal.

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"What colors of paint do you always keep in stock?"

 

Black

White

Light brown

Dark brown

Dull Metal

Shiny metal

Dark blue

Light blue

Gold

Dark green

Light green

Yellow

Bright red

 

Always shake paint really well and for a long time before using.

 

What sizes/brands of paint brush do you prefer?

 

A good sable brush probably 2 of about size 2. Use two water pots and change the water after every session of paiting or when rinsing pot 2 starts to go even a little foggy. Rinse brushes after painting really well. They will last a long time.

 

What other tools will I really need? X-acto knife, sandpaper, etc?

 

Metal plier clipper

X-acto and plenty of blades - a cork to stick it in if you don't have a lid

Podcasts

Old tooth brush and washing up liquid. Cleaning bones really well before painting will remove any oils human or otherwise and make paint stick better.

 

Other:

 

An area set aside for painting with everything out and you will be more likely to paint. Paint what you want not what you think you should. It will make you much more productive as will a WIP thread.

 

Look forward to seeing your WIP's. link them here :)

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Reaper sells a starter brush set of 3 brushes (#2 flat, 0 & 5/0) that is pretty reasonable and similar quality to what comes in the LTPKs. Paint Set #1 from the first Kickstater was available on eBay for a while, and it had a pretty good starter selection as well.

 

Like others have said, the advantage of the LTPKs is that they have a useful assortment of paint plus brushes right off the bat. If you really don't want the primer/metal minis you could re-sell them or pass them on to a friend or whatever. I've yet to find a better value for someone just starting to paint, and that's just counting paint & brushes.

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I suggest Reaper Minatures' Learn to Paint Kit 2: Basic Skin and Cloth, since you're likely to be painting human figures. You can learn LTPK1's drybrushing and washing on your own. Unfortunately, the current LTPKs overlap in paints, and you can wait until Reaper revises them to their Bones kits before deciding to buy another. Reaper should have a "12 Days of Reaper" promotion in December. Buy $35 (or whatever minimum) and get a reissue of a limited edition metal figure.


For metals, I keep hearing good things about Vallejo Air Model silver. Paint thin layers of other colors to tint it to gold or whatever.


Even more important than paints are good high quality brushes. Winsor and Newton, and Raphael 8404's are good to start with, but will cost $15 per brush. Most experienced painters will suggest a Size 1 Round and Size 2, but for n00bs, I suggest Size 1 Round and Size 0. In the United States, Dick Blick is a good source of brushes, but the free shipping threshold is usually $100. Also get Size 0-2, airbrush thinner as a paint thinner, Size 3/0 then possibly matte medium, flow aid, and drying retarder, and clear gesso as well. Get on the DickBlick newsletter mailing list so you can find out their free shipping holiday special.


Get the Army Painter QuickShade Strong (brown) and Dark (black) inks. I use them *way* more than the paints because I wash miniatures for tabletop use. Army Painter has a set of inks, including the Strong and Dark inks, for washes, which can be used just as effectively as paints. A 005 Micron Pen is useful for painting eyes and blacklining, although it can clog. I'm experimenting with a brush tip pen as a replacement.


From Michael's, buy craft paints for bases and undercoating: Black, white, grey, dark brown, light brown. For basing, school glue and real playground sand (for variety of sand sizes). Plus cheap brushes. Two rinse jars, with a little soap. Rinse the brush in the first jar, then the second. Master's Brush Soap is also useful. Michael's also has a 40% off coupon and has matte medium, flow aid, and drying retarder, and clear gesso, plus cheap stackable bead boxes which work fine with human-sized Bones figures. Finally, instead of holding a miniature in your hand while painting, stick the miniature onto a paint pot with sticky tack. Myself, I bought a set of cheap craft paints for the pots, so I could have a uniform set of pots for assembly-line painting.

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I'm surprised no one has mentioned Brown Liner yet. If you go the Learn to Paint Kit route (which I also highly recommend, they're a terrific bargain!), I'd suggest also picking up a bottle or two (or five...) of Reaper's Brown Liner. It's sort of like primer for Bones; it helps paint stick to the plastic substantially better, and since it sounds like they'll be used for gaming, it will help keep the paint on the mini where it belongs. :)

 

Some kind of sealer would be a very good idea, too, though I think one of the kits comes with Reaper's Brush-on sealer, which I've used and have been very happy with so far. Others can tell you more about gloss sealers and Dullcote matte sealer, since I have no personal experience with either of those. :)

 

Welcome to the hobby and the forums! Please always feel free to ask questions, we're a friendly, helpful bunch, and love to help new painters get started! ::):

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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I use Testors dull coat to seal all of my figures after painting and I use all of them for table-top. So far no problems. I just take the figure outside, shake up the can really really well, then hit it with the spray a few times from a couple of different directions. Let it dry for a day or so and you are set.

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I realize that I'm late to the party, but...

 

What colors of paint do you always keep in stock?

 

What sizes/brands of paint brush do you prefer?

 

What other tools will I really need? X-acto knife, sandpaper, etc?

 

1. The basics. Black, gray, white, red, orange, yellow, blue, green, purple. Payne's Grey. Also a steel, bronze/copper, and a brass/gold. Several shades of each. Personally, I also keep a turquoise on hand as well; it comes in handy. Liquitex gloss and matte varnishes for finishing, and Liquitex matte mixing medium for making washes and glazes.

 

2. I don't stick to any one brand of brush, but I keep a 5, 1, 0, 5/0, 10/0, 18/0, and 30/0 on hand. Also, medium and small drybrushes from Games Workshop.

 

3. My tool set includes: needle files (some rasp-type, some cross-hatched), a hobby knife, a sculpting tool (with contour putty and greenstuff), 3 rinse jars/containers, paper towels, a clip-on magnifier lamp from Hobby Lobby, side-cutters, scissors, jeweler's saw/razor saw, a palette, and dental picks. I also keep several empty paint pots (and/or dropper bottles) on hand in case I want to mix a lot of a color at one time.

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Buy a cheap sponge, a cheap tupperware dish, and some good water-colour paper, and make yourself a wet palate like so:

http://www.comic-tools.com/2009/07/dont-buy-one-of-these-things-i-normally.html

It'll make painting less of a pain.

 

Otherwise, start small and grow your paint collection gradually.

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Depends on what you want to do. If you just want some OK colors for the minis, then quickshade might be nice. It's a gloss sealer and brown wash at the same time. Paint the colors you'd like on the mini, then dip it in quick shade to shade it all, and seal it. You can paint really fast with it!

 

Also goes well with the colored amy painter primers for further laziness :)

Edited by Dibbler
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The consensus of the forum seems to be "start with the learn-to-paint kits", so that's what I'll do. I've just ordered #1, plus bottles of Fair Skin, and Aged Bone, and Forest Green. I really like dark greens, and the other two just seem like handy things to have.

 

I'll just visit the local craft store for other stuff -- x-acto knife, diamond file, etc.

 

Thanks very much!

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@wdmartin - Great to hear! Please post pictures of your work, feel free to start your own WIP thread and Showoff to track your progress like a lot of us have done already. You can really learn a lot from seeing your own work and from getting feedback from the amazing artists around here.

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The consensus of the forum seems to be "start with the learn-to-paint kits", so that's what I'll do. I've just ordered #1, plus bottles of Fair Skin, and Aged Bone, and Forest Green. I really like dark greens, and the other two just seem like handy things to have.

 

I'll just visit the local craft store for other stuff -- x-acto knife, diamond file, etc.

 

Thanks very much!

 

Aged Bone is SOOOO useful to have, I wish I had one. I've been mixing Pure white paint, with a very small drop of russet brown to make my 'bone' look. So far, it's been a faithful substitute. (Oddly enough, I've mastered skeletons, kinda, the Mister and I are in a disagreement on how skeletons should look. He likes the traditional, black base color with dry brushed white, while I like a brown base with my personal bone mix paint dry brushed on OR a light brown with my bone mix color for a more 'fresher' looking skeleton. @[email protected] I eventually aim to post this work but I'm having trouble getting a lamp, light box, etc. @[email protected] It's complicated.

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One thing that I don't think was mentioned - you will find it incredibly helpful to have a "handle" to hold the mini with. It lets you hold the miniature steady while you paint it, and keeps your fingers off of the mini - the oils from your fingers can cause paint to not stick well. I have two pretty easy suggestions:

 

I know a lot of people use the poster tack for this. I haven't yet, so I can't speak to it personally, but basically you get the putty stuff you use to stick the a poster to the wall, put it on something you can hold in your hand easily (a bottle, dowel, old paint dropper, whatever,) then stick the mini to it.

 

What I do is I like attaching my minis to a fender washer - it gives them a bit more bottom weight and a bigger footprint for stability. They're like 10 to 20 cents at the hardware store and come in various sizes. You can fill out the rest with some kind of putty, but that's another conversation. :) One day I came up with the idea of gluing a magnet to the end of a dowel as a handle - it works brilliantly. Again, you can glue the magnet to pretty much anything you find easy to hold - viola - instant easily removable handle. The only warning I'd give is if you leave the mini on the handle long term it magnetizes the washer a bit and gets harder to pull off (I'm using one of those rare-earth magnets.)

 

There are other options but these two are the easiest, and probably the best for Bones.

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