Willen Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Some time ago we were discussing, in CahsWiley's WIP thread, that some of us have some Inifinty minis waiting for some paint. So I figure, what better than create an unified thread to share our progress with this minis? We can share tips, color schemes, and friendly teases against our opposing factions. For those of you not familiar with Infinity, it is a skirmish sci-fi game made by Corvus Belli, a Spanish company. They are stylish, relatively small figures, with great detail; they are a "clean" scifi and not W40k style. For targets, civilians, etc, a lot of the minis Reaper has to offer are great, and I am waiting for my 12 days of Reaper order to start painting some civys! I am collecting the Nomad faction, primarily, and I want to paint my Bakunin Starter Set. These are my moderators: I decided to pick one and try my color scheme. I am working on the "sub-armor", the red-leather thing that is pants, and long-sleeved undershirt (in my mind). Basecoat is Vallejo Model Color Red Leather. A challenge for me here: not diluting the paint so much! Then, first shadow was done with Scale75's Red Leather: First highlight was RMS Oiled Leather: (ugggh, harsh light, harsh pic, looks awful! But I will correct it with midtone glazes later ;) These paints are my initial choice of colors for this part, taken in B&W to evaluate tonal intensity: I also plan to do extreme shadows with Payne's Grey (not pictured). Thoughts? C&C? Any Infinity minis you want to share? 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trystangst Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Awesome. As a potential Nomad player myself (who also has this box starter), the main thing keeping me from painting them has been trying to find a scheme. So I'll definitely be following along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinh Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) I like the way you took the paint pic in B&W as it does show the tone shift quite nicely. I will have to try that trick when planning my next figure to get the shadows and highlights in line. Edited January 6, 2014 by robinh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Awesome. As a potential Nomad player myself (who also has this box starter), the main thing keeping me from painting them has been trying to find a scheme. So I'll definitely be following along. There you go! Grab a Moderator and lets do some schemes! I wanted something muted but with touches of bright, and didn't want to copy Giraldez paintjob... so I started to look at the minis from a "practical" standpoint. I am trying to identify armor, sub-armor, pouches, variants... and hopefully will get to some cohesive scheme even with variations. Right now I am in the "red leather"-ish camp for all that should be body-fitting and flexible, white and grey for most armor plaques, with some bright red and orange for accents and variations (I just love wildcats in red!). Dirty whites for fabric, bright neon green for lights, and off-blue blacks for rubber will be all secondary. I am aiming at something I can produce without much paint mixing, more muted than brilliant, so I can produce some recipes to apply over and over again. I like the way you took the paint pic in B&W as it does show the tone shift quite nicely. I will have to try that trick when planning my next figure to get the shadows and highlights in line. It helps me a lot to identify if a color is fitting for a shadow or light. Sometimes we believe the color is lighter, only because some hues seem lighter, or because the vibrancy of the color is down (greyish colors). And then when you apply them the mini lacks contrast... this helps me evaluate if a certain color, independent of hue or vibrancy, can actually be read as closer to white, or to black. Check this one (same as above plus the grey payne wash on top): If I can paint those colors in, the contrast levels will be great. If the actual hues actually work with each other, then you have the basis for a strong, solid color choice. IMHO, of course. I am no expert. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aku-chan Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 I'll be keeping an eye on this too, I got some Aleph last year and I'm still finding them too intimidating, all those tiny seam-lines and hexagons! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 I have (well, technically, my wife has) Aleph. The Myrmidons are mine, MINE I say ;) So we can paint them together too!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Some "quick" work (for me, at least): Further highlight with Scale75 Iroko (a creamy greenish brown, very light) and then RMS Linen White. I had to do a VMC Red Leather (my basecoat) glaze to tie it together, then re-touch the Scale75 Red Leather shadow, and a new, deeper shadow / blackline with Payne's Grey (a very dark, blueish color). This color is actually a craft acrylic but is working great for my as a very dark wash in a ready mix I keep of paint : matte medium : water. The work is not very clean, but I am quite satisfied with it as a tabletop game paint job. Now, I might still do a GW Sepia wash to enhance the red tone, but it is quite nice as is. C&C? Any recipes of grey-white armour? 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CashWiley Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48140-cashs-workbench/?p=813414 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Yeah, your awesome piece there came to mind Cash. Question tho... Aircraft Grey, what is it like? I have Ashen Blue and Rainy Grey only from Reaper... how does it compare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trystangst Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Well, after racking my poor brain long and hard for an alternate scheme, I caved and am going with the box art. The Zero is a recon/stealth unit - so you would think camouflage or some sort of concealing colors would be best. But in the world of Infinity camouflage is hi-tech, consisting of chameleon like suits and predator level invisibility. So the paint of the initial outfit doesn't really matter. I looked at some painted versions, but nothing struck me. So box art it is. White is mostly done, orange is just a basecoat. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 White and blacks look NICE! Can you share colors involved? Will you do the oranges with white highlights, like cool orange, or yellow for a hot/cold contrast with the black/white? Or anything else awesome as you usually do? ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trystangst Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Ah yes - I forgot to add the colors. My mistake. White is a base coat of GW Shadow Grey, then blended up thru GW Ulthuan Grey, ending in P3 Marrow White. 2 or 3 intermediate shadeds between Shadow and Ulthuan, and just took advantage of Glaze Medium to go from Ulthuan to White in thin layers. Orange is just a base of GW Blazing Orange. It will be brightened with GW Fire Dragon Bright (also orange), and then highlighted with a mix of Fire Dragon and white. The Black is just primer. The box art shows a dark grey on the pants and such, so there won't be much actual black aside from lining and the gun. Here's the box art paint: Though I will probably change small details here and there. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 I ended up using Cash's recipe but with Ashen Blue. I am terrible at blending whites. Either that, or I need to relearn to thin and blend with RMS paints... White is a difficult color to photograph as well... That little shoulder pad, the arm thing and the other wrist's band took me like 30 minutes; which defies the idea of tabletop minis. I don't know, I will try to push the whole process and see how the whole white process looks like. And then, try to cut the corners, and hopefully become faster at it. I need to practice my blending. Sometimes it feels I get it right by sheer luck :( Any ideas for exercises? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 I got some work done this week; and yesterday worked on the white highest spots... but white is difficult to photograph. Since I didn't have the photo booth in place, it was impossible to take a pic that was not washed out by the workplace light, or heavily tinted red by the ambient lights. I am overall quite happy. I need to work with the chalkiness of white, of course, but it looks fine from a feet away. I also basecoated the leather straps, and the hair. At that point, however, I got upset (I got my 12 days of Reaper shipment! But some issue there, emailed Reaper and the reply was... upsetting, really) and somehow that made me lose my steady hands, so I had to drop it and go watch TV. Anyway, the best pics I could take: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willen Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 I've decided I like this combination well enough to do all the remaining moderators like him. Also, a Wildcat mostly in white armor. So I fished them out, did some battle damage to the Wildcat, put them through the soft plastic brush of the Dremel (primer was a little rough on a couple of them) and re-washed. I intend to do some leather-white in production line fashion today. If I don't get distracted by other shiny things. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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