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Very nice. I can see this beast as an ambush predator, hiding in the foliage until he/she explodes out and gobbles up the prey.

 

Flexing the wings should not be an issue; paint adheres so well to Bones that I commonly bend painted parts out of the way to get to other areas without an issue.

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Good job!

 

I was just thinking, hmm this model is a good size for the party to fight as an average dragon size, has a nice pose, and is $15. I could in theory pick up maybe one a year and just paint them in different colors. Why not have a red, blue, green and white one, its not likely the party will ever fight one of each dragon anyway. Of course with Bones it is easy to modify the model anyway, so they don't have to look the same.

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Thanks for the positive feedback. :)

 

The flocking on the base is actually a combination of static grass, tea grounds (out of a torn tea bag. It looks like leaf-litter), and dried coffee grounds (light-weight and dark with a nice texture to pick up dry brushing).

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Great job on this green dragon!

 

A bit of C&C if you'll indulge me:

  • Bones do NOT need primer, just use unthinned paint for the first coat and then thinned paint (with whatever medium you like) for subsequent layers.
  • I'd say that you have a very clean paint job here, but definitely go with higher highlights and deeper shadows to really make your figure pop and add some more depth to it.
  • If you do want to take better pics as well, think about downloading GIMP for free and using the auto-white balance feature to make your pictures look clearer and more realistic to the color.

Otherwise you are off to a wonderful start, welcome to the forums and I look forward to seeing much more of your work!

 

P.S. the folks around here are awesome and friendly so don't be afraid to ask questions, advice, or critique.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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Thanks for the positive feedback. :)

 

The flocking on the base is actually a combination of static grass, tea grounds (out of a torn tea bag. It looks like leaf-litter), and dried coffee grounds (light-weight and dark with a nice texture to pick up dry brushing).

 

I'm tempted to try using used tea leaves or coffee grounds after letting them dry, but I suppose one should just stick unused stuff.

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Great job on this green dragon!

 

A bit of C&C if you'll indulge me:

 

  • Bones do NOT need primer, just use unthinned paint for the first coat and then thinned paint (with whatever medium you like) for subsequent layers.
  • I'd say that you have a very clean paint job here, but definitely go with higher highlights and deeper shadows to really make your figure pop and add some more depth to it.
  • If you do want to take better pics as well, think about downloading GIMP for free and using the auto-white balance feature to make your pictures look clearer and more realistic to the color.
Otherwise you are off to a wonderful start, welcome to the forums and I look forward to seeing much more of your work!

 

P.S. the folks around here are awesome and friendly so don't be afraid to ask questions, advice, or critique.

I've only recently started painting again in earnest. I finally found a way to sit that doesn't kill my neck. (Tall table and short chair) I guess I need to work on some minis I don't really care about and be willing to screw up with the highlighting and shading. After I get the base coat I'm basically frightened of screwing it up by doing too many effects. I need to get over it. :)

 

And... do paints other than Reaper stick to the bones material? I've got a rag-tag mix of Model Color, GW, Reaper, artist quality acrylics, and some craft paints I try not to use as much.

 

AND... I normally take the time to shoot pics with my Pentax Q and then fiddle with them on Snapseed on my iPad. I just wanted to bring the dragon to work on a day I drive, rather than carrying it when I ride the bus. If I was patient I could have just waited until next week, but he looks good on the shelf at my desk. :)

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Thanks for the positive feedback. :)

 

The flocking on the base is actually a combination of static grass, tea grounds (out of a torn tea bag. It looks like leaf-litter), and dried coffee grounds (light-weight and dark with a nice texture to pick up dry brushing).

 

I'm tempted to try using used tea leaves or coffee grounds after letting them dry, but I suppose one should just stick unused stuff.

My coffee grounds are used. I don't know what steeping does to tea leaves. One thing I did note is that different kinds of tea have different colors and textures. I used an orange spice for this base, it seamed like autumn leaves. Black teas are darker, and I imagine herbals will have all sorts of variations.

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The basic set up is a darker base coat followed up by your primary mid tone, then wash of a darker color to get into crevices, then highlights on spots where the light would hit like tops of muscles, shoulders, outer folds of cloaks and raised areas.

 

From what I've heard/read bones are meant to take any acrylic paint undiluted. The primers usually end up tacky on them and create extra work for you. I use all RMSP so I know for sure that the 1st coat not thinned is a really nice thing.

 

Ahh okay, hey as long as you get pics it's cool. Just saying if you want better pics to use the light box, neutral background, and software to give you the most realistic and flattering images possible.

 

Still a really good job on the dragon and welcome back to the hobby!

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Great job on this green dragon!

 

A bit of C&C if you'll indulge me:

  • Bones do NOT need primer, just use unthinned paint for the first coat and then thinned paint (with whatever medium you like) for subsequent layers.
  • I'd say that you have a very clean paint job here, but definitely go with higher highlights and deeper shadows to really make your figure pop and add some more depth to it.
  • If you do want to take better pics as well, think about downloading GIMP for free and using the auto-white balance feature to make your pictures look clearer and more realistic to the color.
Otherwise you are off to a wonderful start, welcome to the forums and I look forward to seeing much more of your work!

 

P.S. the folks around here are awesome and friendly so don't be afraid to ask questions, advice, or critique.

I've only recently started painting again in earnest. I finally found a way to sit that doesn't kill my neck. (Tall table and short chair) I guess I need to work on some minis I don't really care about and be willing to screw up with the highlighting and shading. After I get the base coat I'm basically frightened of screwing it up by doing too many effects. I need to get over it. :)

 

And... do paints other than Reaper stick to the bones material? I've got a rag-tag mix of Model Color, GW, Reaper, artist quality acrylics, and some craft paints I try not to use as much.

 

AND... I normally take the time to shoot pics with my Pentax Q and then fiddle with them on Snapseed on my iPad. I just wanted to bring the dragon to work on a day I drive, rather than carrying it when I ride the bus. If I was patient I could have just waited until next week, but he looks good on the shelf at my desk. :)

 

I've not tried non-MSPs on Bones, but other people have with varying degrees of success. Even Reaper MSPs are not all perfect when it comes to painting directly on Bones material (Walnut Brown being a particularly well documented problem paint). Not long ago I read a thread where they were trying to compile a list of paints that were known problem paints for bones base layers, but I couldn't find it just now.

 

MSPs and MSP HD are the best options, IMO, but other paints may or may not work, probably best to test by painting on a bit of bones sprue, or the bottom of bases to test durability and adhesion with the paints you have or wish to use as base layers.

 

Edited to add: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52131-painting-bones-paint-rub-off/ and http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52130-buglips-was-right-walnut-does-rub-off-bones/ are threads that spring to mind.

Edited by Blubbernaught
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